Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: holden66 on May 11, 2009, 21:14:55
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I have a 1966 230SL. I notice that the mechanic uses 15/40 oil. What kind and grade of oil should I use?
Holden66
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Brad Penn 1 Racing Oil 20 W 50
http://www.bradpennracing.com/default.asp
Well researched and great for our cars.
Google Jake Raby and LN engineering on you tube and Jake Raby on You Tube.
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I have castrol in the motor now.
I am considering changing over to mobile 1 synthetic
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I asked Metric Motors this question when I got my rebuilt engine back from them...
They recommended that I use Castrol GTX 15W 40. That is what I use.
Bob
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From a little research you need some zinc in the oil for these cars to help protect the metal to metal cam lobes. The Castrol looks good, I am putting in the Valvoline vr1 racing oil in next time. It has a good zinc rating http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf .
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It isn't only zinc, it's the combination of zinc and detergents and the proper blend to ensure cleaning and protection. Forget zinc additives and self oil mixology, it's a science unto itself. I encourage viewing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYV8OD8Ohlg and reading this article http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html just for starters to get the idea of the kind of research Jake Raby and Charles Navarro do. I went to a seminar given by Charles Navarro (LN Engineering) and the variables in choosing oil appropriate for our cars is mind boggling. Brad Penn 1 Racing Oil came out on top for covering all bases.
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I just received my motor from Metric Motors this year and Mike from Metric recommended 10/30 castrol conventional. I thought it was a little light for this application and year but that is what I bought. I havent started her up yet. I believe the 10/30 would be good for break in but I am not sure if it would be ok for the long haul. Thoughts from the experts?
Thanks
Jesse
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Gonna sound like a broken record, but I used the Brad Penn Break-in oil, 30 wt. Good idea, put any 30 weight oil in for about 5-15 min of running and drain. Put in break-in for 400-500 miles. Then change to the 20-50 Brad Penn 1 racing.
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 in all my cars.
FYI- there have been many previous discussions about oil:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=764.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=764.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=8887.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=8887.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=8522.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=8522.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9478.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9478.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=152.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=152.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=380.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=380.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=6524.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=6524.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=5347.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=5347.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2800.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2800.0)
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=1451.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=1451.0)
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Zinc Diphospate has become the critical item in choosing an oil. This component is absolutely necessary for protecting non-roller cams from failure. Because of possible converter affects, oil manufacturers have rapidly been removing ZDP from their products. Discussions of which oil to use, even if only from a year or so ago, may not apply to the current product being supplied. Diesel rated oils tend to have a higher ZDP content, but even these are changing with new epa considerations. There is an additive which can be put into the oil which contains ZDP, It is called "ZDDP plus" , this is one way to be sure your cam is protected. Otherwise, you need to have verification that the oil you are buying has a high ZDP content.
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Shell Rotella T, 15W40 is intended for severe diesel use and has more zinc than most. It is recommended by several members of the local classic club who use it in their 12 and 16 cylinder, Packard, Cadillacs, supercharged Dusenburgs etc.
Gus
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Hello Everyone
A friend of mine had recommended looking at Liqui Molly oils.
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/web.nsf/id/pa_eng_home.html?Opendocument&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf
they are manufactured in Germany and they carry a range of oils for classic cars
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_classicvehicles_nt00036926.html?Opendocument&land=GB&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf
I have no experience with these oils and had never used them.
I went through their website and they look interesting.
any experience or recommendations on Liqui Moly
Cheers
Basem
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Hi Basem,
Current MB recommends 20W-50 and now they sell there own classic edition brand oil I can send you details.
I use Classic Castrol XL 20W-50.
Thanks Richard
Classic Car Oil London
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Can you post any easy link to the classic edition oils? I'm going to have the oil changed in the car in the next few weeks and would like to use it.
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Hi Basem,
Current MB recommends 20W-50 and now they sell there own classic edition brand oil I can send you details.
I use Classic Castrol XL 20W-50.
Thanks Richard
Classic Car Oil London
Hi Richard
I would be interested to know more about the MB 20/50 oil. would you please send me some details.
who makes the oil for MB?
Liqui Moly makes what they call a 20/50 oil for classic cars, I dont know if it is a good oil to use.
Thanks a lot Richard
Basem
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Guys
I think that there is a thread on zinc additives (in this forum stream) that covers a lot of what is being discussed here.
I have been using Mobil 1 15W50 on my 1965 230SL. It is recommended for older engines like ours. It has a high level of zinc (around 1300ppm) and has all the benefits of a modern synthetic oil. I am very happy with it, and will continue using it.
This is the link to the product:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_15W-50.aspx
And a link to the various data/specs on the additives and properties:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
Regards
Franjo
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Hi
I have added the document to this post regarding the Classic Edition Oils from MB they recommend 20w/50
I can supply with in the UK the MB Classic Edition Oil I am based in London and currently only sell in this area.
Thanks Richard
Classic Car Oil London
Castrol/Autoglym/Sheild Batteries
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I also use Castrol Classic 20W50 and also ZDDP additive (1/2 bottle). More about ZDDP is here: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=17699.0
It is worth mentioning that there is a very interesting oil made by Valvoline VR1 Racing with one of the highest content of zinc and phosphate than most of street legal oils.
Unless you have some different information, as far as MB own oil brand, I saw they offered it in Australia some time ago, I checked in continental Europe and was told that they don't sell it here.
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Hi Stan
I was actually considering the Valvoline VR1 Racing oil (before I settled on the Mobil 1 15W50). But what swayed me was that the VR1 oil was a conventional blend (ie not synthetic), so I chose the Mobil 1 since it has the same levels of Zn in a fully synthetic oil.
Rgds
Franjo
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Break in oil isn'tthe same blend as regular oil even if it has enough zinc in it. Durning breakin you want about twice the normal evel of anti wear additives. I use a full bottle of Comp Cams and drain it at about 500 - 700 miles. I use a half bottle at every oil change after that. You can buy oils already blended for these purposes which end up costing about the same depending on what you use as your base oil.
Break in is a very critical part of every rebuild. If find that most engine break in proceedures aren't done right, if at all.
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Break in is a very critical part of every rebuild. If find that most engine break in proceedures aren't done right, if at all.
I would like to read more about that. Is there a topic on this forum where it's discussed?
Other tips to read something about it, the www for instance?
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Hi Stan
I was actually considering the Valvoline VR1 Racing oil (before I settled on the Mobil 1 15W50). But what swayed me was that the VR1 oil was a conventional blend (ie not synthetic), so I chose the Mobil 1 since it has the same levels of Zn in a fully synthetic oil.
Rgds
Franjo
I was using Shell Rotella diesel with no difficulties but a friend from the local Ferrari club told me they had all changed to VR1. I changed to that at the last oil change and have noticed no problems. I wouldn't consider a full synthetic because they leak badly in our old engines. (At least in mine and all the others I'm familiar with).
Gerry