Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: 230slhouston on January 02, 2009, 22:07:06
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Hello all,
Happy New Year to everyone.
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I am about to remove my diff but first have to drop the exhaust. Question, what is the trick to remove the bolts that hold the exhaust to the manifold, in particular, the ones closest to the body. I managed to remove 5 of the six, the rear one is the problem. Will a long extension and swivel joint from the top do the trick to hold the nut?
Once I start removing the diff, more questions will follow.
Thanks
Maistran
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Those bolts are a real PITA. Depending upon which bolt you are doing, you'll have to either 1) work from the bottom with one hand straight up to the bolt head, and the other hand reaching around thru some other access you can find for the nut, OR 2) laying a wrench on the nut from above and then working from below.
My bolts were very rusty and I changed them to stainless.
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Update...I managed to remove the bolts using a 3/8 drive extension and swivel. All the bolts are now out. Problem is the exhaust is real tight in the manifold. Any ideas how to remove this without causing any damage. I took of the hangers but it won't budge.
Thanks
Maistran.
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When I removed my old exhaust some time ago, I used the weight of the exhaust system to help break the tight, rusted, connection between the manifolds and the pipes.
Basically, removed the bolts, then removed the rubber hangers and as I lowered the rear of the exhaust system, the pipes broke away from the manifolds.
Good Luck!
Bob :)
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I had the same problem when I tried to remove my exhaust. This will sound a bit scary, but once I removed the support donuts I used the entire exhaust as a lever arm back and forth below the car to break the exhaust loose from the downpipes - worked really well!!! Once you crank the bolts tight for the downpipes, it seems to drive the exhaust into the downpipes and makes it hard to remove. Once you drop the pipes, slide them back and forth below the car, and if you have any luck the pipes will pop loose. May take a few cycles, but it worked well for me... thought I would never get them loose......
Regards -- Roger
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I had 50% of luck. Only onside broke loose. The other side seems to be seized. In trying to wiggle it free I am stressing the manifold even further. I am just going to reassemble the whole thing and give up for now. I do plan on removing the engine this year to paint the car, I will give it another shot.
My intention was to remove the diff and refurbish it, I will just replace the boot in situ.
Thanks
Maistran.
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Re: Manifold to down pipe connection - the one with the metal o-ring. Have the total exhaust system out on the ground. The one manifold refuses to separate-even with heat, PB blaster, and dry ice. Rust weld is the world's best adhesive!!!!
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I too had difficulty in separating the downpipes from the manifold when the integrity of the pipes needed to be preserved.
No amount of tugging, pounding, heating or even profanity was effective. Fortunately MB placed (designed?) a ridge on the downpipe to to keep the flange in its rightful place. By placing bolts with 2 nuts between the manifod flange and the downpipe flange and turning them in the appropriate direction one could force the flanges apart and separation occurred.
Space is tight so stubby wrenches are an asset.
Hope this helps - Mait (230sl)
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Hello Mait,
Very resourceful method! And new one on me. I'll have to try it next time.