Painting a 280SL 1969 at home

[Pinder]

This weekend I was finally able to get Epoxy Primer and High Bulild 2k primer on the 1969 280SL that I have been working on. This car will be painted in Olive Green in around 90 days after all the primer has finally gassed off.

[kampala]

Making good progress.   Thanks for posting.   90 days to gas-off?   

[Pinder]

To make sure paint has shrunk so that when I wet sand it down it wont change as it drys. In my previous two paint jobs using this same paint there was some shrinking and some sand scratches mirrored to the top coat. I correct them by wet sanding final finish and buff / polish.  This time I want to take my time and do this once. So longer I wait the less chance.

[Shvegel]

What you may have experienced is post curing.  Sometimes epoxies, polyesters and urethanes will cure to a point but will not fully cure until the product reaches a higher temperature.  My guess is that the paint you had a problem with was a dark color that popped after you put it in the sun?  You might want to consider heatlamps or having someone with a booth bake it for you.  After that you should be fine.

[Pinder]

Yes I think that is likely the case and putting it on too thick. I think this time round with the new paint gun and correct settings things looks so much better and I sprayed at a warmer temp (73 degrees).  Yes the prior two cars were black.

[Pinder]

while waiting for the 69 Primer to be ready for block sanding.  I have started on the 1970. Just painted the roof with epoxy and 2k primer. I had fun using my latest 1.8 tip on my paint gun. I used eastwoods DTM epoxy and 2k Primers.  I dont know how they compare with other similar products but I had excellent results. the epoxy  sticks extremely well. I got some on chrome and was very hard to scrape off . Had to use solvents.

also for anyone else thinking of painting there own car my experience with the Eastwood paint gun (HVLP) (concourse gun) is that when set correctly there is very little over spray or waste / fumes.  I also use a full face mask with the pink filters. Its a 3M product and works perfectly. Paint smell is undetectable which is important as the 2k and top coats have isocynates.

For gun cleanup I use homeddepot  lacquer thinners.

[Shvegel]

Aren't pink filters HEPA filters for dust only?  Pretty sure you need carbon cartridges at least.  As someone who spent enough time around Isocyanates to now react to them whenever i spray them please check into proper filtration.  If carbon filters are the route you go keep them stored in a sealed container when not spraying otherwise they will simply absorb the hydrocarbons etc in the ambient air and be ineffective when it comes time to spray again.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/777847O/isocyanates-3m-techupdate.pdf?fn=Isocyanates%203M%20TechUpdate.pdf

[Pinder]

Yes they are carbon filters. I read into the dangers of the paint and bought the filters and full face respirator.  I use zip log bags to store the filters when not used for painting and right the number of hours of use. These are the last two cars i plan to spray.

the new gun I have is so much better than my old one in terms of how little over spray it produces. for all the primers I spray with garage doors up to minimize exposure to me.

What I haved noticed though is that I am sensitive to Body filler. the slightest smell of it gives me an instant headache so I wear the mask for doing filler work too and it works well.

[Shvegel]

Good to hear the filters have carbon in them.  I just ordered an epoxy primer from SPI and on their website it says if the surface AND the primer are not above 65 degrees until it is fully cured the primer will go dormant and you will probably be re-doing all your work.

[Pinder]

Yes I called the Eastwood tech line and they told me to make sure the temp is 65 to 70 degrees at least.

[Pinder]

Here is a video of the car with 2K primer. I am in the middle of block sanding the primer now and thats likely how my whole weekend will go. Its boring to do but results are great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vE1oY63Cm5A

[Pinder]

about to paint the underside of the hood and I notice several plastic (cream coloured plugs). THe car is olive green originally. Should these plugs be painted over? Should I remove prior to paint? for dark colours did they also use cream plugs?

[Shvegel]

Try peeling up one of the plugs and see if there is olive paint under the edge?  I don't remember any plugs in the hood.  Could you post a picture?  I suspect they may be rustproofing plugs. 

Not sure if you are doing the engine compartment but on the 280's there are 4 rubber plugs on each side of the inner aprons that correspond to the upper reinforcement you feel if you reach up above the front tire.  These are plugged with rubber plugs then painted. Due to the release agents on the rubber the paint peels over time but it should stick if you wipe them down with some thinner.

This is a picture from an unrestored 50k mile car known as the "Holy Grail"

[mbzse]

.../... on the 280's there are 4 rubber plugs on each side of the inner aprons.../...

Not on all 280SLs
Regarding these holes in the W113 bodywork, see for instance
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=20934.msg148619#msg148619
/Hans S

[Pinder]

Ill post pictures.  THese are in the hood of the car. I see the plugs on the fenders in the engine bay. 

[Pinder]

Yesterday was a very long day. Painted 5 coats of Restoration Shop Single stage AU Dark Olive Green. It was 90 degrees in NJ. I  actual lost 3lbs in body weight (mostly water weight).  It went on pretty well. Some orange peel. I dont paint much so im no expert at it. I mostly fix the crewups during wet sanding final finish / polishing. Mostly it came out really nice. Wont be much wet sanding to get the orangle flat and nibs out. I do love the colour and its back to original colour. I still have to paint the front door jabs where its hinged. Ill use a detail gun for that but wanted to spend the time prep it well. its a fiddly area and deserves the attention it should get. nothing worse that a nice paint job and someone does not give the inside jambs the same level of detail. I paint the hood and roof separate and the rest of the car in one shot.

This is 5 coats of single stage. on top of 3 coats of 2k on top of 2 coats off Epoxy DTM.

[Iconic]

It's looking great!
Thanks for the update.

[Pinder]

Color sanding with 1000 grit followed by 2000 grit and then polishing. I have about half of it done. This is a slow process.

[Pinder]

This paint is from Restoration shop its the single stage AU.  I find this paint to be a lot harder when cured than the Eastwood Single stage paints. Take more time to buff out the 2000 grit. The eastwood I was able to use a DA polisher. With this I have to use a regular buffer with a wool pad.

[Pinder]

So just noticed that during compounding / buffing some areas that I think I may have wet sanded to coat below show what I can describe as a map line. Can see it with an led light. It seems to go away after wax. Ill have to see how it looks in sunlight.

[Pinder]

Finally got the good back on. The damn tension rod is a pain to deal with. Caused a minor paint scratch but i can touch it up.

[Pinder]

Front view after paint with all chrome and headlamps installed.

[Shvegel]

Really nice job!

[Pinder]

Thank you for the kind words. I have not waxed it yet. I thought Id wait a 6 months before I do that.

I now have to start on the 1970 280SL which is DB670 color code (light ivory). Being a lighter colour I hope its easier to do. Ill start a different thread for that one. I may do a Clear coat over the single stage.