Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: rwmastel on December 14, 2022, 14:30:02
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As I sit here at my Day Job and have random thoughts regarding my 230SL mechanical restoration, or maybe refurbishment is a better word, I'm wondering how to address the appearance of things under the hood.
This is not a complete list, but to make my point ....
I plan to send out the motor for full rebuild.
I plan to send out the fuel injection pump, injectors, and csv for full rebuild.
I will replace all rubber (hoses, belts, etc.)
I will replace the firewall pad.
I will replace the battery.
I assume I will replace the starter, alternator.
This will create a lot of shiny, pretty things under the hood. But, I don't have a budget for cosmetics, so I can't re-plate hard fuel lines and other things. Components like injection linkages, distributor, power steering parts, brake booster & master cylinder, and more will only get cleaned.
How odd will it look to have a mix of old original worn finishes and refurbished/restored finishes? Has anyone ever told a rebuilder to skip the plating and painting? Just rebuild the engine (or FI pump) and then simply clean the outside?
I will probably never have the money for overall cosmetics on the car, like a proper paint job, re-chroming, and new interior, so I'm debating how to treat the engine bay.
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I've used 'cad plating' rattle can spray from Eastwood with pretty good result on underhood parts? Better than doing nothing, and you can do this yourself:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-golden-cad-complete-kit.html
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I have been cleaning as I go. Painted the radiator, brake booster and coolant overflow tank with rustoleum high heat paint. A previous owner had sprayed everything black inside the engine bay so I have been stripping and cleaning relay covers etc. My throttle linkages were bent so I replaced with these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115448739942?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1n9fNUSpRdu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=xav0ln5wruc&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Getting under hood parts plated is not very expensive. A lot of work to ready the parts though.
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Since you’re not planning a full on restoration, I think a thorough cleaning of your engine bay and some minor “rattle can” repainting would leave things looking more than respectable. You’d be surprised how well a toothbrush and soap (degreaser) can make things either look new or at least clean again. Just look at the difference in Lorsar’s engine bay. I’d say it’s a dramatic improvement!
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OK. When the time comes, I guess I'll let Metric and Pacific FI and/or whoever do their detail cosmetic work on components that I send out. I'll get brave with the flat black paint like Lori did for the coolant tank, radiator, battery holder, and other appropriate metal parts. I'll get quotes for cad plating the various parts and see if I can squeeze it in the budget.
Related to cleaning things, I've heard of dry ice cleaning but never looked into it. Looks impressive, except you can only get to some sides of the parts if they are not removed. Nice video here cleaning a 280SL - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U-SMe5KC9k
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Dry ice is $250-300/hour.
OK. When the time comes, I guess I'll let Metric and Pacific FI and/or whoever do their detail cosmetic work on components that I send out. I'll get brave with the flat black paint like Lori did for the coolant tank, radiator, battery holder, and other appropriate metal parts. I'll get quotes for cad plating the various parts and see if I can squeeze it in the budget.
Related to cleaning things, I've heard of dry ice cleaning but never looked into it. Looks impressive, except you can only get to some sides of the parts if they are not removed. Nice video here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U-SMe5KC9k
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You can also rent a machine and bring it home. Might be nice to do if I get to a point where the engine & transmission are out, the front subframe and rear axle are dropped, and parts like the fuel tank and other stuff are removed. I don't know the cost, but it would be the best way to clean things!
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Use satin black rather than flat black. Much closer in appearance.
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What paint is best for "satin"?
I'm discovering that the definition of "satin" is subjective and, depending on the manufacturer, can sometimes be shinier than I like.
There are very subtle differences between semi-gloss vs satin vs flat. I bought a Rustoleum satin and it was quite shiny (more like semi-gloss), while their flat was more satin (but too flat for my liking), yet not as flat as their "ultra flat"!
Best wishes to all for a great holiday season!
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“ Under the hood (boot) appearance”
Rodd,
hood = bonnet
Trunk = boot
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I should stick to my own language.
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Complete cadmium plating of everything you can get to them in a batch will most likely be only about $400. 1/20th the cost of having your engine rebuilt. You can have it done is twinsburg so no shipping cost.
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Much more affordable than I anticipated. PM me your contact in Twinsburg. There's always a shipping cost, whether you box it and send UPS or take the time to drive it yourself.
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Plating Perceptions 330-425-4180
Ask for the the owner Randy. They primarily service the air craft industry but Randy has squeezed a number of us in including myself and AlexD. Mine did take a while as it depends how busy he is. Get them to him early in your project.
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For all of the small (under 5 inches or so) parts I would suggest you go to harbor freight and buy the large shaker and supplies for cleaning part’s after you degrease them. I bought their parts cleaner as well. buy the warranty on the shaker as you may wear out a few if you overload it a bit which I did several times.
Take pictures on what you send as some parts invariably may not return. I lost a few key bolts of unusual size. Put the nuts and washers on on a wire but don’t replace lock washers as they can loose their tensil strength in the process.
For the part washer it’s best to heat the degreaser while the parts sit overnight. I used purple power from the auto parts store and for $20 got a cattle water trough heater from Tractor Supply. The nice thing is most black paint came off on the parts after sitting over night making it easier for repainting black parts.
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For all of the small (under 5 inches or so) parts I would suggest you go to harbor freight and buy the large shaker and supplies for cleaning part’s after you degrease them. I bought their parts cleaner as well. buy the warranty on the shaker as you may wear out a few if you overload it a bit which I did several times.
I don't have a large garage, just a simple residential garage, so space for a parts cleaner will be hard to find. It's a good idea, I've used them before so I know their value. I'll see what can be rearranged in the floorspace.
Is this what you mean by a "shaker"? I'm not familiar with that term.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/cleaners-auto-care/cleaners-degreasers/parts-washers-cleaners/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html
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Check out this - this is what I know as a skaker:
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html
Use this after you have cleaned your parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. I haven't bought one yet but its on my list. Yes - get the warranty.
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Oh, neat! I've heard of these things, but never bothered to look into them. They have a larger one that optionally uses wet media. Very interesting.
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
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Start with good cleaning of parts. You maybe very surprised how nice they will look. Anything that does not clean up you can paint for now and later when you are ready the paint is easily stripped before metal finishing. I have seen on ebay new inection lines for around $600 but if it can be done in the $400 with your original lines, that sounds like a great price .
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Also make sure you plug your injection lines with the appropriate size metric bolt otherwise they may get plugged up in the plating process. Clean them out when back before you install.
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My 69 280SE 111 after lots of cleaning(oven cleaner works great on the cast aluminum), spray painting gold cad and replacing the plastic parts. Before and after photos.
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Rodd,
As JohnK mentioned plugging the injection lines before plating is critical. I have a set of plugs you can borrow when the time comes.
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Oh, neat! They have a larger one that optionally uses wet media. Very interesting.
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
I’ve had a small industrial ultrasonic cleaner, as well as a vibratory tumbler for years. They are essential tools for cleaning. Often they are used in tandem. First some time in the water-based degreaser in the ultrasonic, and I use it hot. (Mine has a built in heater.) Then some time—usually measured in days—in the tumbler. These are perfect for degreasing, cleaning and polishing. You just have to be patient! In some cases I’ve had parts in the tumbler for a week.
When time is critical the old standbys are spray brake and or carburetor cleaners (both volatile organic solvents) along with a lot of hand work with brass or stainless brushes…followed by metal polish if needed.
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Wheel lug bolts are the correct thread size to plug the injector lines.
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My 69 280SE 111 after lots of cleaning(oven cleaner works great on the cast aluminum), spray painting gold cad and replacing the plastic parts. Before and after photos.
Can you give some instructions on how you used oven cleaner on the cast aluminum? Your intake manifold looks great!
Tony
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Can you give some instructions on how you used oven cleaner on the cast aluminum? Your intake manifold looks great!
Tony
Hi TJ—Sam’s Club sells a gallon of concentrated degreaser, similar to ZEP Purple. That does a good job too. There’s also a variety of wheel cleaners you can get at local auto parts stores. Pay attention; you want the kind that says “Do not use on aluminum”—that’s the kind that will work the surface and get it really clean. “HotRims” is one. You can also search online for “aluminum brighteners” as they are really the best. They work pretty fast…
The oven cleaner, and the degreasers, are caustic with a high pH. The aluminum brighteners and the wheel cleaners are acidic with a low pH. So they both work in different ways, but achieve the same goal.
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Hey Michael!
Thanks for that info! Mine is not real bad but I had my Valve cover vapor blasted and now the intake manifold needs some sprucing up!
Hope all is well.
Tony
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Why not use the same treatment on the intake manifold?
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Do not want to remove the manifold just some minor cleaning.
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Tony,
Curious where you had the vapor blast done and how expensive was it to have it done? Are you satisfied with the results?
Happy holidays,
Mark
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Hello Mark,
I had LMS Blasting Innovations in Gastonia do it about a year and a half ago. Patrick is a motorcycle guy but is one of the few that I could find near me that was reasonable. He charged me $75 and I was pleased with his work. He does have his own hours. My valve cover looked pretty bad but came out looking real good. I don't have his number must have lost it.
Hope all is well.
Tony
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I had LMS Blasting Innovations in Gastonia do it about a year and a half ago. Patrick is a motorcycle guy but is one of the few that I could find near me that was reasonable. He charged me $75 and I was pleased with his work. He does have his own hours. My valve cover looked pretty bad but came out looking real good. I don't have his number must have lost it.
https://lmsblastinginnovations.com