Recent Posts

41

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Axle Replacement for Different Gear Ratio

« Last post by cfm65@me.com on May 04, 2024, 10:21:14 »

Hi Roberhofer,
Is the speedo adjustable?
I have installed a 5 speed Getrag and the speedo is under reading by about 10-15 kmh.
Chris
Cape Town

42

Research & Development / Re: Engine swap suggestions for a w113, keeping it into MB motor range

« Last post by Cees Klumper on May 04, 2024, 09:57:39 »

As far as I know, there are companies that offer new ECUs that can be programmed to just about any engine, based on the original ECU. After all, every combustion engine works the same: it needs air/fuel mixture, timing, spark. The characteristics for these variable parameters can be obtained from the original ECU then programmed into the new one, using as many sensors as needed/decided. See here for example:

https://linkecu.com/

A Youtuber in Australia that I follow and support, Home Built by Jeff, uses this company to supply him with ECUs to for example put a modern Ferrari V8 engine into a sixties Alfa Romeo GTV:

https://youtube.com/@HomeBuiltByJeff?si=DQJe-n2cGQMwPuKL

43

Research & Development / Re: Engine swap suggestions for a w113, keeping it into MB motor range

« Last post by roberhofer on May 04, 2024, 07:25:26 »

https://www.kwiekclassics.com

He focuses on the M113 NA Engine with the 722 5G Tronic transmission. Works well on the W108 (he has done a few).
Talked with Matt (Owner) on the phone and he thinks that it should fit into the Pagode as well.
All-in probably between $60-70k USD. This includes a overhauled M113 engine and transmission. He thinks that with the 5G Tronic it's possible to retain the Pagode gear lever. There are tools to retain the original gauge cluster as well. So unless you open the engine bay (or start the engine) you will not know the difference.

Good example video with him: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfYRKsEuNGY

44

Research & Development / Re: Manual to automatic using W123 automatic gear box

« Last post by roberhofer on May 04, 2024, 07:12:33 »

Someone seems to have been able to make the 722.6 5G Tronic work:
https://youtube.com/shorts/0Us5Kj2A0K4?si=CSJBcw1xwEy4Fx19

45

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Axle Replacement for Different Gear Ratio

« Last post by roberhofer on May 04, 2024, 06:47:32 »

As per Cees Klumper, I too have done the conversion from 4.08 to 3.69. As I have the 230 SL with less torque thus I was worried to go the 3.27 route.
I do not regret it. It still drives off well from standstill and reduced the revs at highway speed. Not significantly but definitely noticeable. I have not adjusted the speedo to compensate.

46

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injection pump South hemisphere

« Last post by roberhofer on May 04, 2024, 06:40:52 »

One excellent US option is:
Gus Pfister
Pacific Fuel Injection Services
153 Utah Ave, South San Francisco, CA 94080
+16505888880

He completely overhauled my injection pump. He has all the Bosch equipment and does absolutely excellent work.
You have to reach him on the Phone. Old School German. Better hurry - he was supposed to retire a few years ago. I (and the 60's Porsche community as well) am very worried about him doing so.

47

Other cars / Re: Lowest of the low.

« Last post by ja17 on May 04, 2024, 06:21:27 »

Interesting way of getting around the air suspension and brake issues with the swap. However, 6.3 axles can be expensive and hard to come by these days.

48

W11x chassis cars / Re: 1961 220Sb stalls when choke is pushed in.

« Last post by ja17 on May 04, 2024, 06:13:10 »

You probably stored it with Ethanol fuel in it. Try to find some non-ehtanol fuel before storing a car especially one with carburetors. We have "Sheets" fuel stations in Ohio which have some non-ethanol pumps. The ethanol fuel absorbs water out of the air and the moisture is especially hard on fuel systems, especially carbureted. Sounds like you have a brass idle jet plugged. You can remove most of the jets on the carburetors without removing or taking the carburetor apart. Just locate the jets one at a time and clean the tiny opening. I can almost guarantee you it is an idle jet plugged. If you have a BBB it should point out where the idle jet is for you. Give me a call if you need to Brad.

Joe

49

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Head Gasket Issues

« Last post by ja17 on May 04, 2024, 05:59:58 »

Check the compression in all cylinders before you take the head gasket off again. Remove the plugs and spin the engine with the starter first to expel any water from the cylinders before the compression check. Your compression readings could give you a clue to where your problem is located. You might have a crack somewhere so try to find the cause and location of the failure or you might be wasting your time again. Head bolt torque on a M130 engine should be 80 ft/lbs. in three stages. After first warm-up re-torque the head to 80ft/lbs (warm engine). Re-torque the head again after 500 miles (warm engine). I also use the copper gasket spray. Replacement of the head bolts is not required on the M130 engines that do not have stretch style bolts like later Mercedes engines. Also realize that the blown head gasket allows engine coolant into the combustion chamber which then fills your exhaust system with engine coolant. As the exhaust heats up the coolant in the exhaust, white smoke will return for a considerable amount of time. Eventually the problem lessens and then disappears, as long as everything else is ok. You may need to change the oil twice to purge the water out of your engine or you risk damaging the engine bearings from circulating all the water through your engine.

50

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Head Gasket Issues

« Last post by Cees Klumper on May 04, 2024, 02:26:33 »

The head needs to be torqued down in 3 successive stages and in a specific pattern.