Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: badali on May 14, 2022, 16:31:41
-
Driver side rear hub got hot after drive. I checked the brakes for a sticking wheel cylinder. There was not excessive brake dust when I pulled the drum. I'm going to replace the wheel cylinders and think I should change the bearing also so I don't have to take everything apart twice. I changed the wheel bearings on my 1961 220Sb over 30 years ago so I sort of remember how to do it along with reading the tech manual. Are there any problems I could run into while doing this on the garage floor without a lift? I would hate to get it apart and not be able to finish the job.
-
Will the wrench in the link work to remove the lock nut on the axle while replacing the bearings? There are 2 different ones on the site.
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Mercedes-Rear-Axle-Bearing-Lock-Nut-Wrench-p/auth-009152.htm
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Mercedes-Rear-Axle-Bearing-Lock-Nut-Wrench-HD-p/auth-009153.htm
-
The rear brake shoes are mechanical adjust on 230L's. Make sure you don't have them set up too tight.
-
Will the wrench in the link work to remove the lock nut on the axle while replacing the bearings? There are 2 different ones on the site.
Brad,
even though good to have, the nuts can be loosened / tightened fairly easy with a hammer and flattened chisel.
-
I made a tool you can use to remove and replace the nut if you want to borrow it. It can be used with a torque wrench and get you close to the 144 ft lbs.
-
The rear brake shoes are mechanical adjust on 230L's. Make sure you don't have them set up too tight.
The drum rubs only slightly. Would this cause it to heat like that? There was minimal dust inside when I pulled the drum. I'll check the adjustment. The smell of the heat did not smell like locked brakes. The hubcap was so hot I could not touch it. I really don't want to pull the wheel bearing so I'll double check everything again.
-
Does the wheel turn freely while jacked up? How about with the drum off?
-
Seems to turn freely. I could not get the drum off until it cooled down.
-
Seems like wheel bearings wouldn’t create that much heat. Any chance the brake hoses are collapsing causing the brakes to rub and then slowly releasing the pressure? When you drive, do the brakes feel very responsive?
Does the wheel turn freely while jacked up? How about with the drum off?
-
I have changed all the brake hoses so I would hope none of them are bad already. I have a vacation week this week so I hope to get some time to check everything thoroughly.
-
I have 2 new wheel cylinders and wheel bearing kits (111-350-00-68) The kit is missing the paper gasket. Does anyone have the part number for the paper gasket? It seems 111-350-00-68 kits are nearly impossible to find. Everyone is out of stock. I haven't had a chance to look at the car yet and find the problem yet but want to have all the part in case I need them...
-
You can make a gasket easily right?
-
Here is the picture. They had no more kits in stock. If it didn't have the bolt holes it would be easier to make...
https://cdn1.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/SuperStock/111-350-00-68-INT.jpg
-
You can use a paper hole cutter a few times per hole or a razor blade.
-
Thanks
-
Or you could go the Harbor Freight route
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html
-
I have used a few different punch sets and most inexpensive ones are frustrating to use. I then found this one on Amazon and works amazingly well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002T87E0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The punches are very sharp and so far have proved to be durable. It is only just a bit more expensive and well worth it.
-
That paper gasket is very thin and much less than the one found on a water pump. I'm thinking maybe .005" or less.
-
Does this look suspect for brakes sticking or am I still leaning to a bad wheel bearing?
-
That wheel cylinder looks larger than it should be. 230's use 19mm cylinders.
Brakes running hot are usually stuck pistons in cylinders or calipers. Or in the case of 230SL, the brake shoes need to be adjusted back in a bit if they're dragging.
-
OK, here is where I'm at. Brakes weren't sticking or to tight. I have everything apart and am cleaning. The bearing has a slight grit when turning it. Pictures are of my progress.
-
More pictures
-
Find someone with a large press to remove the axle bearing. Those are the right parts for the LT side of the axle.
-
Thanks Dan, I got the bearing off by tapping on a block of wood. I have to insert the seal in the axle tube. I bought a seal driver set since I didn't have a large socket. I'll finish tomorrow if everything works out OK. I have the seal on the brake plate and already cleaned the axle. I will slide the brake plate on, then pack and install the bearing and lock nut.
The MB shop manual says to pack the bearing cavity full of grease while installing the axle. Seems like it will be quite a bit messy...
-
It's not too bad. Use wheel bearing grease for that job. Do you have a tool to tighten the nut?
-
Yes, I bought the tool from Authentic Classics. I spent more on tools than parts this time...
-
Everything is back together and I took it for two 5 mile test drives. Everything looks good and no hot hubs.
This was not too bad of a job but not easy either. I was lucky to have no major problems putting everything back together. The hardest part was bending the lock ring up on the spanner nut. I had to mark it, then remove it and partially bend it to get it started.
Thanks to everyone for all the helpful info and the Tech manual.
-
I really wonder what kind of tool they used to lock the washer. It is a tough washer to lock.
-
I bent the locking washer up as much as I could then I used a series of different sized punches to expand the metal into the square slot of the nut. I then finished with using a punch that I ground to fit the recess of the slotted nut factoring in each side of the thickness of the lock plate.
-
I did about the same Dan.