Author Topic: Front Crossmember  (Read 1305 times)

larryled

  • Full Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, VA, Alexandria
  • Posts: 55
Front Crossmember
« on: July 11, 2020, 21:19:11 »
Can someone lead me to info on changing the front crossmember on a 230SL; tips and techniques that would be helpful to pass onto a Body Man that will do the work.  Thanks, Larry L.

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7316
Re: Front Crossmember
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2020, 15:11:07 »
Are you referring to the front bumper support?
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

larryled

  • Full Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, VA, Alexandria
  • Posts: 55
Re: Front Crossmember
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2020, 16:35:44 »
Yes Joe, I have the new one; comes in two pieces like a clam shell.  Looking underneath, it is welded to the frame on each side, just back of the Bumper connection.  Hope you‘re well and look forward to another Backlick!  Larry L

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7316
Re: Front Crossmember
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2020, 02:12:39 »
Hi Larry, thanks hope all is well with you also. It is a little tedious and some experience and skill is needed for best results. Some other sheet metal panels also tie into and are welded to this crossmember also. Some paint damage will occur during removal or during the re-welding process. Most likely removal of the bumper, hood, radiator and grille will be best. Cut, trim and grind the old rust damaged cross member from the car. Carefully peel away any sheet metal connected to the old crossmember. The two halves of the crossmember can be spot-welded together as original or simulate the spot welds with plug welds which are ground down flat. Avoid solid bead welding along the seam if you want best looking results. Be sure to test install before you weld anything. Use some sheet metal screws to hold the two halves together temporarily and do test installations. When everything is clean and fitted, you can remove it one last time and spot or plug weld the two halves together.  Grind smooth all welds then weld the crossmember into place. Tie in all the other sheet metal. It is best to use a good rust primer on the inside of the crossmember before you weld it together even though you will have to grind to-be welded areas to bare metal before welding. 
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

cfm65@me.com

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • Mossel Bay, South Africa
  • Posts: 703
Re: Front Crossmember
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2020, 10:37:56 »
Thanks Larry for the question.
Thanks Joe for the advice.
I am about to replace the cross member on my car as well and the question and advice came at the right time.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town
28 Ford Model A Pickup
29 Chevy Phaeton
67 E Type FHC
67 250SL 5 speed
83 911SC
2015 VW T5 California Pop Top

larryled

  • Full Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, VA, Alexandria
  • Posts: 55
Re: Front Crossmember
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2020, 11:45:24 »
Thanks again Joe.  I agree with approach, and Your guidance sounds good.  I think I can do the removal here in my garage and then hand it over to the body man for the attachment of the member.    I will keep you advised as I progress through this project.  Chris, good luck w/yours and keep me posted on your progress as well.  Might be best to private e-mail for that.  Larry