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Items for Sale / Re: FS: 1969 280 SL, Moss Green over Cognac, 4-speed for sale +++
« Last post by FastWgn on Today at 11:12:55 »Sale pending.
News:
Purchase clothing, caps, jackets with our official Pagoda SL Group logo from our official partner.
Recent Posts
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Anyone know a part number or availability for these little plugs?
« Last post by AndrewB on Today at 09:25:49 »The ones Bob H sent me fitted really well, and look very good in situ
Bob, thank you once again !
Bob, thank you once again !
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Events / Motors by the Moat ( Leeds Castle )
« Last post by RAY on Today at 08:18:58 »There is a very nice car gathering coming up on the 10th & 11th of August, lots to do and see apart from the cars.
I have applied for a Saturday ticket, would be nice to see some other Pagodas there.
Just Google Motors by the Moat.
I have applied for a Saturday ticket, would be nice to see some other Pagodas there.
Just Google Motors by the Moat.
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Anyone know a part number or availability for these little plugs?
« Last post by Davek1 on Today at 08:09:42 »That was my worry, but they fit really well
Ill see how much it is to post to the US as I am in the UK.
Ill see how much it is to post to the US as I am in the UK.
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Wanted To Buy / Re: Harmonic Balancer/Vibration Dampner
« Last post by Duncan200 on Today at 01:23:24 »Thanks Franjo
I’ve shown it to my engine specialist and he says it will be fine.
Thanks anyway.
Doug
I’ve shown it to my engine specialist and he says it will be fine.
Thanks anyway.
Doug
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 01:18:31 »Ok played around again today. I think this new Multi Meter is crap. It won't even go to 0.00 when touching the probes together. But I started trying to trace wires. I was coming up empty. So I tried testing some other things. So when I connect the battery Fuse one goes Hot. The are 2 Bunches of wires to on the Front and 1 on the back. So I disconnected the battery and removed all wires from Fuse 2. The front 2 of the fuse had 2 sets of wires attached.Set 1 had 2 Wires, set 2 had 3 Wires. My guess was the 2 Wires were Horn and Cigarette Lighter. The other set of 3 was Washer Relay/Motor and Pump. I grabbed my power inverter and connected the set with 2 Wires. Lighter light up. I dont have horns so could not test the horn. When I put power to the other 3, I got power reading out of the Washer Relay but not the Motor or the Pump. My hope was sending power thru these wires I should have gotten 12v on one of the pins on the connector but I did not.
I did the same thing with Fuse 1. Things worked that should with power, like the Entrance light, map light , clock...
But no power to any pin in the Connector?
Also shouldn't Fuse 2 go Hot when I turn the ignition to the 2nd Position? It did not? I did not want to start the car because of everything loose. Does the car need to be running to Active the 2nd Fuse or do I have another Gremlin to trap and Kill.
I am going to review everything tonight. Probably with some booze and then decide if I need to unwrap a wires and see what I find. Taking the wires off of Fuse one there was a bulge and when I unwrapped a little the was a wire with a connector on it wrapped up and folded backwards. I will test that tomorrow and if I can track down what that is.... Thanks for all the support. This car has been soo much fun... Not so much these last few days.
I did the same thing with Fuse 1. Things worked that should with power, like the Entrance light, map light , clock...
But no power to any pin in the Connector?
Also shouldn't Fuse 2 go Hot when I turn the ignition to the 2nd Position? It did not? I did not want to start the car because of everything loose. Does the car need to be running to Active the 2nd Fuse or do I have another Gremlin to trap and Kill.
I am going to review everything tonight. Probably with some booze and then decide if I need to unwrap a wires and see what I find. Taking the wires off of Fuse one there was a bulge and when I unwrapped a little the was a wire with a connector on it wrapped up and folded backwards. I will test that tomorrow and if I can track down what that is.... Thanks for all the support. This car has been soo much fun... Not so much these last few days.
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Wanted To Buy / Re: Harmonic Balancer/Vibration Dampner
« Last post by franjo_66 on May 16, 2024, 23:44:13 »There is one currently listed on ebay (Genuine Mercedes) -
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/193766200880?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D9fd79079ae3a4d17986f1f565cce0e05%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D193766200880%26itm%3D193766200880%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DMercedes-Benz&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042
Also remember to replace the stretch bolt - there is an updated/upgraded version that replaces the original one
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/193766200880?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D9fd79079ae3a4d17986f1f565cce0e05%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D193766200880%26itm%3D193766200880%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DMercedes-Benz&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042
Also remember to replace the stretch bolt - there is an updated/upgraded version that replaces the original one
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Anyone know a part number or availability for these little plugs?
« Last post by TJMart on May 16, 2024, 22:58:04 »Hi all, I have received my plugs back from the 3D printers and they turned out to be a pain in the bum to get right with the colour texture and shape, but they did a great job in the end. If there was enough interest they could print off 100 at a unit price of £7 Plus P/P. Seems dear but they have to hand finish them.
Put me down for 4. Are they a proper fit? Just asking because the ones from Ace were the wrong size!
Thanks!
Tony
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Cam Oiler Pipe - Maintenance?
« Last post by roymil on May 16, 2024, 22:50:28 »If it's a concern, it is very easy to just remove that oil pipe and blast it out with some carb cleaner to be sure it is clean and free flowing at all of the holes. I'm not sure I would bother if your cam lobes look uniform and healthy and you are measuring about the same amount of wear down the length of the cam whenever you adjust the valves.
In the process of bringing my engine back to life after sitting 18years I did notice more cam wear at cylinders #5 and #6 and so I investigated further because it didn't have many miles on it.
I built an electric oil pump to flush the gunk out of the engine (it was bad) and also to observe how oil was distributing down the cam. I could do this with the engine off for 10's of seconds so the mess was tolerable and oil had time to drain back. I'm not sure I would recommend running the engine and spinning the cam without a valve cover unless you are ready for a mess. Sounds like just cranking is OK, but that may not be fast enough to reach full pressure, certainly not when hot.
Anyway I found out that when the oil pressure is lower (<30psi), on a hot engine, the oil streams nicely over onto the cylinder #1 cam lobe but would only drip straight down back at cylinder #6, entirely missing the cam! This seemed like a possible cause for more wear and heat back there. So, I actually repositioned my oil pipe a bit more over the cam back by #6 so that when pressure is low it will still at least drip on the spinning cam and allow some lubrication at hot idle. I suspect at higher RPM there is no issue, (another reason to go fast :-)
I also integrated my electric oil pump into permanent engine feature so I can reach full oil pressure for as long as I want before ever cranking the engine. Maybe overkill, but I feel better not listening to the extra engine noise that happens on a cold engine before the original gear pump is able to push oil up top...sometimes a good 20-30 seconds later.
In the process of bringing my engine back to life after sitting 18years I did notice more cam wear at cylinders #5 and #6 and so I investigated further because it didn't have many miles on it.
I built an electric oil pump to flush the gunk out of the engine (it was bad) and also to observe how oil was distributing down the cam. I could do this with the engine off for 10's of seconds so the mess was tolerable and oil had time to drain back. I'm not sure I would recommend running the engine and spinning the cam without a valve cover unless you are ready for a mess. Sounds like just cranking is OK, but that may not be fast enough to reach full pressure, certainly not when hot.
Anyway I found out that when the oil pressure is lower (<30psi), on a hot engine, the oil streams nicely over onto the cylinder #1 cam lobe but would only drip straight down back at cylinder #6, entirely missing the cam! This seemed like a possible cause for more wear and heat back there. So, I actually repositioned my oil pipe a bit more over the cam back by #6 so that when pressure is low it will still at least drip on the spinning cam and allow some lubrication at hot idle. I suspect at higher RPM there is no issue, (another reason to go fast :-)
I also integrated my electric oil pump into permanent engine feature so I can reach full oil pressure for as long as I want before ever cranking the engine. Maybe overkill, but I feel better not listening to the extra engine noise that happens on a cold engine before the original gear pump is able to push oil up top...sometimes a good 20-30 seconds later.
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Cam Oiler Pipe - Maintenance?
« Last post by Pawel66 on May 16, 2024, 21:57:07 »When you put some towels around, you will survive, at crank speed it is not splashing that much.