Recent Posts

1

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by russelljones48 on Today at 21:27:45 »

Thank you.  All of my injectors were retested and although the patterns look good and they chirp as desired the pop pressures are below the minimum of 15 atm or 220.4 psi, per the gauge they pop at 200-210 psi.  Gauge tested (actually reads a little high) as a precaution and the conclusion is that the injectors all pop below spec...   

2

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Tach Works but Whines!

« Last post by Benz Dr. on Today at 21:20:45 »

The main part of a tach or speedo has a shaft with a magnetic flywheel on the end inside of the gauge. The grease on this shaft will dry out or harden overtime and your tach or speedo will complain LOUDLY This is a problem in colder climates but the noise usually go away once it warms up inside your car.

Gauge needs lubrication and cleaning in most cases.

3

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 20:55:46 »

Folding wire is Red White Blue.  So 1 wire is original!

4

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by Cees Klumper on Today at 20:55:07 »

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-0004620693-Replacement-Compatible-Directly/dp/B0CB5MC252

5

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 20:53:13 »

Great on the ignition.  Because I think the chrome part needs to be drilled out on my car which is why I never did it...

6

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by Benz Dr. on Today at 20:52:50 »

Either style injector will work in any Pagoda engine. The injection pump determines how much fuel is delivered, not the injectors. The R1 and R2 injectors have different spray patterns with the R1 being more conical in shape. I prefer the R1 when I can find them.

7

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by Cees Klumper on Today at 20:51:54 »

On my 280 SL, the ignition switch is two parts: one, the front chrome tumbler part the key goes into, and then plugged into the back of that, the actual electrical switch that the connector plugs onto. My car was beginning to be difficult to start due to the switch starting to fail. I think for around $70 I got a complete new switch and problem solved. The chrome tumbler part did not have to come out, I only needed to remove and replace the electrical switch part at the back of the tumbler. 230's may be different? 

8

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 20:26:44 »

oof.  Ok I guess I will read how to get the ignition out.  Seems like it the whole dash is coming out again

Initial tests today.  When I supply power to the fuse 2 Wires.  I get the lighter again but don't see any power in the switch, was hoping to find the Horn Cable.  Then switched to the other set of wires...

Relay I get power but not on 56 but 56B?
And still no power to the wiper Motor on Pin4.  So I am going to start unwrapping some things...

9

General Discussion / Re: Where can I get a vintage style battery for my 1970 280sl?

« Last post by Ueenande on Today at 20:04:17 »

I've found vintage-style batteries for classic cars at specialty auto parts stores or online shops that cater to classic car enthusiasts. You might also try reaching out to Mercedes-Benz restoration specialists or forums dedicated to vintage car restoration for recommendations.

10

Electrical and Instruments / Tach Works but Whines!

« Last post by jtmaynard on Today at 19:31:35 »

My tach started making a whining noise when the engine is running, which increases in pitch along with the RPMs. Other than that, the gauge works. I assume it's a broken cable, and if so, I'm dreading the fix! Or does the tach itself need replacement?