Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: waqas on April 27, 2008, 22:40:36
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Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere (I couldn't find it).
I'm tired of using all manner of makeshift ball-joint puller. As I'm about to replace a tie-rod end, this might be a good time for me to invest in a good puller specifically for our cars. Ideally, I'd like to be able to detach ball-joints non-destructively (without harming the rubber boots).
My questions are:
- What kind of ball-joint puller do you use?
- How happy are you with it?
- Where can I get one like yours?
- Can it be used on all ball-joints in the steering system?
Thanks in advance!
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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The 1968 108-113 BBB shows the following special tool part numbers:
Fixture 100 589 04 33 00 (Job No. 46-4) for the "pressing off main steering arm (Pitman arm)"
Fixture 136 589 12 33 00 (Job No. 46-9) for "removing track rod from steering knuckle arm."
Fixture 186 589 10 33 00 (Job No. 46-9) for "removing track rod from steering arm or intermediate steering lever."
Fixtures 136 589 12 33 00 or 111 589 08 33 00 (Job No. 46-9) can "also be used for removing track rod from steering arm (pitman arm) when the drag link is already removed."
I couldn't find any of these exact part numbers on the Samstag site http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#steering. Of course there are other parts numbers which appear close. Does anyone know which part numbers have superseded which?
Thanks
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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I know this is a stupid question... what is the BBB for us new comers?
Wallace Wheeler
Texas
'68 280 SE 111
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BBB = "Big Blue Book"
This is the nickname used for the massive Mercedes repair manuals of this period. They're about 6-7 cm thick and have a medium blue cover.
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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quote:
Originally posted by waqas
../.. invest in a good puller specifically for our cars. Ideally, I'd like to be able to detach ball-joints non-destructively (without harming the rubber boots)
My questions are:
- What kind of ball-join puller do you use?
[/i]
Kamasa K6070, jaw opening is 18mm
[li]How happy are you with it?[/li]
It is superior, never failed me yet, no damage to rubber
[li]Where can I get one like yours?[/li]
www.kamasa.com
http://www.kamasa.com/pdf/katalog08/01_en_Automotive%20Tools.pdf page 12
[li]Can it be used on all ball-joints in the steering system?[/li]
Yes, certainly
[/list]
here is an image:
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/mbzse/200842817653_Kamasa%20ball%20joint%20puller%20K6070.bmp)
/Hans in Sweden
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Hans, thanks for the information.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a Kamasa distributor in the US.
Their tool looks very similar to the Kukko 128/2 puller tool shown here: http://www.SamstagSales.com/mercedes/mb000589443300.jpg
Since the fork/jaw tapers inwards, where exactly do you measure the 18mm from? (largest opening, narrowest opening, or somewhere in the middle?)
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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Shoot,
I have a great balljoint puller, but cann't find the receipt from the purchase..... The item has a part number of 513243, and is a really great tool. If you look at the second graphic down in http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html it looks like that. No way to damage the boot, and it has loosened some really stuck balljoints for me. Don't go with the pickle fork....
Regards -- Roger
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Roger, thanks for the info.
By any chance, does this look like your puller (Kukko part no. 129/1) ?
http://www.samstagsales.com/images/kk129-1.jpg
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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Hi Wagas,
Nope, not really the same. As I said, mine is like the second & third picture in the link I posted. General differences based on the picture, on mine - the body is longer, finish seems much better, there are two holes at the pivot that allow you to increase or decrease the jaw opening, and the bolt is from the outside. Not sure what all the differences really mean, but .... increased leverage associated with longer jaws, better finish may equate to better quality casting & materials, and jaw adjustment may allow you to apply pressure closer to 90 degrees.
It's funny, but Samstag sounds very familiar, and I may have gotten mine from them several years ago.
Regards -- Roger
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I ended up buying the ball-joint separator made by Stahlwille (part no. 71230001).
Purchased from a very friendly and reasonably-priced source:
Maryland Metrics
6119 Oakland Avenue
Baltimore MD. 21215
(410) 358-3130
http://mdmetric.com/
Also picked up some Stahlwille 41mm/46mm wrenches for my upcoming maintenance involving the driveshaft.
I'll let y'all know how the puller works out.
Waqas in Austin, Texas
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quote:
Originally posted by waqas
Hans, thanks for the information.
Since the fork/jaw tapers inwards, where exactly do you measure the 18mm from? (largest opening, narrowest opening, or somewhere in the middle?)
Somewhere in the middle seems to be right :)
quote:
Their tool looks very similar to the Kukko 128/2 puller tool ../..
Yes, certainly, they do the same job
/Hans in Sweden
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Now that I have my puller in hand, I thought I'd try it out on some steering pieces lying around waiting to be dismantled (from an old 108). I was amazed at how much easier this was! (when you have a puller of the correct size, as opposed to adjustable-jaw pullers and pitch-forks)
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) IMG_4816-smaller.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Waqas/2008517185158_IMG_4816-smaller.jpg)
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In fact, Hans is correct in that it can be used on all ball-joints, including the drag-link.
However, the tie-rod end must first be removed:
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) IMG_4817-smaller.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Waqas/2008517185430_IMG_4817-smaller.jpg)
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Then, the puller direction is reversed and slid further along either the idler arm of the steering arm to pull the drag-link:
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) IMG_4819-smaller.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Waqas/200851718560_IMG_4819-smaller.jpg)
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I have to say this is the most worth-while investment I've made in a tool of late. Thanks again for all the input.
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Wagas, Is that a Stahlwille 71230011? How much?(from MD Metrics) They 18mm and bigger.
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Thats the Stahlwille part no. 71230001 ("18mm" opening, although the opening is tapered). I ended up getting it for around $65 or so... it apparently will work on most 60s/70s MB ball-joints.
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I just pulled out my entire front end the other day. (My motor is going to Metric for a complete rebuild.) For those of us who might have a Kragan Auto Supply Store nearby, they have a 5-piece suspension tool kit by Power Built for rent. Included in the kit is a ball joint separator similar to Wagas' Stahwille. I used it and what a relief. Ball joints out in less than a minute. The deal is you will get your $70-80 deposit back from Kragan if you return the kit within 48 hours. Essentially FREE if you use and return the unit back in 2 days. After that it's only $6 a day to rent. I suspect most auto supply stores have similar rental units.
Andy in sunny California