underhood detailing

[ptooner]

I am considering ways to improve my underhood appearance without going over the top.  I am planning to replace the firewall pad which is starting to look a bit worn.  I am considering polishing the injection pipes with 000 steel wool and other similar parts like the linkages and then try a clear polyurethane spray.  The painted areas are holding up okay and I can always liven up the hoses with a bit of silicone spray I think.  I'm not planning on Pebble Beach or even the Concours at Amelia Island but I'd like to have it look a bit better at smaller shows and I'm considering a bigger carshow Sept 15th sponsored by Brumos Porsche.  Most shows I'm the only Mercedes, but this one I would expect there to be a few.  Anyway, thoughts and suggestions solicited.  I usually try to drive it to at least one cruise in every week so extremes don't make sense.   For reference, my paint is of the 10 foot variety so I'm not talking about a trailer queen.

Gerry

[Bonnyboy]

Don't use 000 steel wool.  0000 is the minimum or you will get scratches.  Throw out all of you 000 now so you won't be tempted to just try to clean this or that....

If hoses are ugly how about replacing them with new - there has to be something better than silicone - I would recommend against using any silicone product because it gets airborne and really messes with surfaces that you may want to paint at a later date.

[Garry]

One of the things I did on my 280SL engine bay over a period was remove one item at a time and repair if needed, repaint, add labels as needed and return with new hoses, bolts, screws or clamps as appropriate. Does not get it all done quickly but it slowly works through the engine bay and eventually gets it looking very presentable.  That way you tend to work on one item, and by pre purchasing expected parts, the car is not off the road for long periods and you still get to enjoy it as it is slowly restored.

[ptooner]

One of the things I did on my 280SL engine bay over a period was remove one item at a time and repair if needed, repaint, add labels as needed and return with new hoses, bolts, screws or clamps as appropriate. Does not get it all done quickly but it slowly works through the engine bay and eventually gets it looking very presentable.  That way you tend to work on one item, and by pre purchasing expected parts, the car is not off the road for long periods and you still get to enjoy it as it is slowly restored.

I like that concept a lot.  In fact, when I rebuilt the WRD I sanded it and painted it with a "hammered metal" spray I had on hand just for giggles and it worked great.  I will continue in that vein and about the steel wool, I just hit the 0 one time too few.  I meant 0000 steel wool.

Gerry

[mdsalemi]

I would use 0000 (4) BRONZE wool, not steel.  No particles left anywhere that will rust; won't scratch chrome, etc. A little harder to find but not too; fine furniture restoration, gunsmiths, etc. all use it.