Cardone caliper

[dseretakis]

My 71 280SL needs a new rear caliper.  My experience with new OE ate calipers has been less than favorable. The caliper in question was replaced about 8 yrs ago and now has a seized piston.  I've replaced and re-replaced enough MB calipers on several 1970's models to know that these things don't last long in cars that don't get driven regularly.  They are also very expensive new.  I'm contemplating replacing it with one of those Cardone remanufactured ATE calipers sold by Advance Auto.  The quality of the rubber caliper boot is definitely inferior but I can buy 5-10 of these calipers for the price of a new one.  I doubt that they will last 1/5-1/10 as long.  What do you all think? 

[ctaylor738]

I have used Cardone rebuilts on 114s and 107s in the past and been completely satisfied.  rockauto.com has really good prices.  I would use them without hesitation again on a 113.

[dseretakis]

Thanks Chuck. I just picked up the caliper today from advance auto. Can't beat $70. I was also shocked when they handed me an original ATE  rotor!

[IXLR8]

Try changing your brake fluid to sliicone. 

That's the best stuff for cars not driven regularly.  I've used it for decades now in my '81 R107 and '73 VW Thing.

Joe

[dseretakis]

I've heard not so good things about silicone.  I don't remember exactly what the problem was.  Maybe someone can explain.  Your experience however has been good so who knows?

[jacovdw]

The problem is that the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5 spec) does not play along nicely with the original/old seals in the brake system.
In short it basically causes leaks - does not cause sufficient expansion of the old seals.

If you want to use it, it is recommended that you need to replace all the rubber seals in the system and flush out all the old DOT 4 spec brake fluid.

The main benefit is that it is far less hydrophillic as the older DOT 4 spec stuff and hence can be kept in the system for far longer.

[graphic66]

I put the DOT 5 in my Unimog system and immediatly had the clutch slave cyl. blow out. Maybe not related but I flushed it all out right away and went back to DOT 4.

[IXLR8]

The only problem I've read about with silicone brake fluid is that it compresses a bit more than conventional brake fluid, thus confusing and adversely affecting ABS systems.

In my R107, I've used silicone since 1984, original seals--have NEVER flushed it--and have absolutely no problems.

In the VW, I've used it since 2000, original seals--have NEVER flushed it--and similarly, absolutely no problems.

When I get my 230SL on the road, it will also be silicone, although the 230 will have all new rubber.


Joe

[RickM]

I personally would not use Silicone in a system not designed for it.

As mentioned it is less hygroscopic and therefore does not absorb water. This increases the possibility of oxidation within the system.
Also, when any water in the system boils off, the result is air in your line...this combined with the compressibility of Silicone makes for poorer performance.

Additionally, AFAIK, Silicone requires more frequent replacement for the above reasons.

IMHO, this is not the way to go, especially in an older, relatively antiquated system. Regular (at least annual regardless of use) bleed 'n fills with DOT 3 or 4 is best.