My First Mercedes 230SL Restoration.. Exciting!

[fhernand]

A great looking car. It's my pick of the most sexiest sports car of it's era. My specialty car to restore is early Porsches. But because I have always and a soft spot for this car I was moved to take on the restoration. I plan to pull all the windows, doors, hood, top and truck lid off the car for a complete windows out bare metal/aluminum paint restoration. The color will stay original and be sprayed with a two state Glasurit finish system. Because I want this car to be a show room finish, I will be buffing, and making sure that all gaps meet the 3-4 mm tolerance for these cars. Any details you may have about the car, please do share. I will have all the chrome triple chrome plated. Interior will be done in it's original German Vinyl. Look forward to sharing the process with you..Cheers!

[KevinC]

Best of luck with the project...what is the actual color?

[fhernand]

Kevin, the plate color code is 670H which corresponds to Light Ivory.  My client is considering going with a blue top instead of the Light Ivory.  Because I'm more of puriest, I'm hoping that he will go with the original color. 

[Jonty]

A great looking car. It's my pick of the most sexiest sports car of it's era. My specialty car to restore is early Porsches. But because I have always and a soft spot for this car I was moved to take on the restoration. I plan to pull all the windows, doors, hood, top and truck lid off the car for a complete windows out bare metal/aluminum paint restoration. The color will stay original and be sprayed with a two state Glasurit finish system. Because I want this car to be a show room finish, I will be buffing, and making sure that all gaps meet the 3-4 mm tolerance for these cars. Any details you may have about the car, please do share. I will have all the chrome triple chrome plated. Interior will be done in it's original German Vinyl. Look forward to sharing the process with you..Cheers!

well if you have to re-set the springs inthe boot please take a photo for me as i need to know how they go

[fhernand]

Jonty, when I get to this I will think of you and send some pictures.  The restoration should go pretty quick since I only work on one car at a time so I don't overlook the details. 

[RickM]

  Because I'm more of puriest, I'm hoping that he will go with the original color. 

Be even pure-er and go for single stage paint 

[al_lieffring]

Remember to paint the hub caps to match the hard-top if you do decide to change the top color.

[KevinC]

Kevin, the plate color code is 670H which corresponds to Light Ivory.  My client is considering going with a blue top instead of the Light Ivory.  Because I'm more of puriest, I'm hoping that he will go with the original color. 

I am a 670 all the way guy myself!

[fhernand]

Kevin, would you be so kind to forward me some pictures of your gorgeous car? My business email is idoporsche@sbcglobal.net.  Regards, Freddie

[KevinC]

Freddie,

My car had the distinct pleasure of being the groups "featured car" in 2007...

 http://www.sl113.org/2007.html

[jeffc280sl]

I think the bumperettes do a special diservice to the lines of the car.  That is one thing I would consider changing because you can always drill holes in the bumpers to install them if ever desired in the future.

[fhernand]

I have started the disassembly of all exterior emblems, lights, grill and handles.  I have left the top and window attached for now.  It is important to take close note of how things come apart.  For example on this car, before taking the headlight off, I notice the chrome trim around the lights do not fit properly to the outer light bucket.  Also, the lines coming off the fenders and on to the chrome rings are off.  This will be addressed when I start the metal work.  Important also is to properly fit all panels prior to taking off.  Next step is to actually start the stripping of old paint.  All the aluminum panels will be stripped chemically to avoid unnecessary surface removal.




Jeff, I totally agree with you on the issue of the front bumperettes.  Will have to see what the clients desire is on this. 

[fhernand]

There really is no easy way to strip paint.  It takes the right tools and plenty determination.  When the body has been repainted several times in different colors, it takes extra time to complete the job.  I normally use a buffer type grinder with either 40 or 80 grit.  It's important not to over heat the panels that will only cause the metal panels to warp.  Also, only use the grit that is needed to do the job.  A harsh grit will only take off too much metal.  On aluminum panels I only use paint stripper and finish using 120 grit on a orbital sander on the bare aluminum.  Once the metal is completely clean, I recommend a metal cleaner making sure there is no residue left on the metal.  Metal must be free on dust or grease prior to coating.  I sprayed two coats of a two part epoxy primer on metal and aluminum parts.  Once the expoxy has cured, I can start doing my metal and bondo work right over the epoxy.  The proper gloss on the epoxy allows you to see clearly where all you dents, dings and waves are found. It's important to get some coating on the bare metal quickly so there is limitted time for the the pours to suck in moisture.  When taking out weather seals like that found around the trunk top, a quality grease and was remover will lift off any of the old seal glue and rubber.  A proper bare metal paint job required to strip every area having paint. 
Also important to grind out any previous bondo.  You will be surprised to find how some have filled dents instead of properly pulling them out.
Here is the progress...
 

[114015]

I think the bumperettes do a special diservice to the lines of the car.  That is one thing I would consider changing because you can always drill holes in the bumpers to install them if ever desired in the future.

Freddie,
Leave those ugly aftermarket bumper guards away; just dispose them. If they were at least the original MB ones of the (late style) 280...
230ies never had bumper guards, and Euro SLs especially not. Just fill the holes with plugs. But if you are anyway planning to get all the trim pieces rechromed ...

Just my 2 cents...

Achim

[lurtch]

That is some crazy looking oil cooler you've got there!  If you decide to ditch it and go with the Mercedes OEM  item get in touch with me. I did that mod on my 230SL.

Larry in CA

[fhernand]

Larry, thanks for the tip.  I will take note of your offer. 
Achim, if this was my car, no doubt those bumperettes would have been the first things off the car. 

[fhernand]

A little more stripping of the front end.  After stripping I found damage to front end of the car.  Front left fender has been replace.  The right fender had lot's of bondo.  Front grill support had been changed. If you decide stripping the car to metal, I highly recommend two coats of the two part epoxy primer.  It take lot's of work to take a car down to metal and leave it clean.  Now is the time to seal the metal properly and do it right.   

[Bernd]

maybe its just my own ignorance, but I notice quite a few dings that you didn't work out before you primed. Any real reason to do it that way? Are you now going to sand it down again to bare metal to do the bodywork?? If you want showroom paint, then did you not want to replace seals and such?
I always learned to do the metal work before painting, even if its just primer.

Good luck on the project

Bernd

[fhernand]

Bernd, good eye.  What you see on the car is Epoxy primer.  This primer is a corrosion primer.  It adheres and seals the metal like nothing else that I have worked with in the past.  This type of PPG epoxy is formulated to allow you to apply bondo over the epoxy.  I still prep the epoxy with 80 grit paper before applying bondo.  The bondo sticks to the epoxy like it does metal.  I do it this way to have the metal fully sealed even under the bondo.  Because the car lives in the SF area, I wanted extra corrosion protection.  Hope this helps.  Regards, Freddie

[mpat]

I'm thrilled to see the photographs of my car online. Although Freddie is doing the hard work I'm equally excited about the progress. After reading the discussions here I agree we should drop the bumperettes, seems like they are universally unpopular. I have loved the look of the pagoda roof for nearly 20 years and never imagined I would own one. I'm lucky to have found Freddie to work on the car and to take a break from working on porsches!

[fhernand]

Yes, it's official the bumperettes care coming off!  
Mark, thank you for the business.  I'm actually enjoying working on your 230 as much as the 911s...don't tell no one.  Even though the paint and body work was hacked, it's getting done the right way.  Don't forget, you are suppose to help me sand.

Message modified by moderator to remove blatant advertising, in conflict with the forum's Terms of Use.

[fhernand]

One of my pet peeves is seeing a car with sleek lines like that of a 230 and having inconsistent gaps.  Because this car had been hit at the front and rear, it has been challenging to get all the gaps to meet the 3-4 mm tolerance.  Closing a gaps is a job that takes time and good welding technique so as not to overheat the metal and warp the panels.  When gaps are consistent all the way around the car, the finished product after painting is simply amazing.  You get flat panels that meet perfectly to one another and gaps that are tight making the car look flawless.  Of course it's a very time consuming project because it also involves moving hinges and such but well worth the effort. 

[fhernand]

It's Sunday morning and coffee is brewing.  I have taken a couple of hours today to gather more information on the Pagoda.  All I can say is, you guys are a fortunate group to own this piece of art.  I have come to appreciated the craftsmanship not only the exterior of the car, but under the hood and suspension.  I came across some cars that have caught my eyes and will keep as inspiration as I complete Marks Pagoda.  Not sure who the belong to, but truly amazing art.  The pictures truly depict proper panel fitting, flat panels with no waves, proper gaps...

[fhernand]

Finally I was able to finish the metal and bondo work on both sides of the car.  I'm ready for the first of four complete blockings. I have the door, and trunk lid gaps perfectly fitted and adjusted to 3-4 mm gaps.  Properly aligned body lines that run across the car must be matched perfectly from one panel to the next.  The rear trunk panel also completed.  I  have sprayed three wet coats of Polyester Primer Filler.  This type of primer is excellent for achieving flat panels.  It lays very thick giving you extra material to bock.  The black over spray you see is a guide coat that I use to keep my blocking "honest".  The guide coats remains on any low spots found when blocking.  Blocking is of utmost importance in order for your panels to look smooth and straight.  All the lines must be blocked carefully so you do not loose sharpness of edges.  Using the right sanding blocks for the panels goes along way.  You may choose to sand using water or the dry method.  My first three blockings are use the dry method.  My last blocking I use water.  I start blocking with 120 grit.  My second blocking with 150 grit, third with 220 and last with 320 grit wet.  If you choose for 320 grit for final sanding, I recommend applying two coats of sealer prior to your finish coat of paint.  Okay my arms will hurt for a couple of days but beats having to lift weights at the gym.

[fhernand]

The first blocking on Mark's car went well.  Blocking is one of those jobs where you need to walk away for awhile and then go at it again.  It's easy to simply want to just sand like crazy and not worry about how flat the panels are turning out.  On large panels like doors, a long block serves well.  It's long enough to cover a large surface area catching the lows and highs.  When blocking the body lines, I make sure to always sand flat up towards the line at a 45% and then back from the top creating a nice straight and sharper body line.  Some like to use a small round type of sander to sand the inners of the rolls. The black guide coat is essential as a serves as a temporary line.  I continue to use a nice flat square to check my flatness between gaps and panels.  Have a good vacum cleaner handy for it gets dirty dusty. This is a laborious process however, when the final top coat of clear goes on and you look down the side of the car, the results will be worth every second of the bocking. 

[fhernand]

12 hours later, I have finally finish up the gaps and bondo work on the hood.  I can now understand why so many of these cars have dents and dings on the hoods...they are very flimsy and when not properly closed, one can easily damage the hood.  It was a challenge adjusting the hood and closing the gaps to specs.  Front end damage and driver side fender replacement made things complicated.  I use RAGE light weight body filler.  Although expensive bondo, it leaves no pin holes behind and sands easily.  Any things over 1/4 inch deep of filler, I recommend using a stronger filler such as Dana max or all metal filler.  The first three heavy coats of Polyester filler primer are applied and ready to be blocked with 120 grit.  The hood, like the decklid, have to be blocked several times more since these are the panels you want perfection.  These are the panels people look at first.  Because they are both aluminum, its take little pressure to block otherwise, the panels sink as you add pressure to the block causing uneven blocking.  I have added a picture of what I would call a perfectly sanded and finished hood...mesmerizing indeed!  Of course, the paint process on this blue car, is many many many hours of labor and an entirely new thread.

[dseretakis]

Wow! Either you're a master at Photoshop or an incredible painter! That is nice work. You should have one happy customer.

[fhernand]

Oh no, I'm not taking credit for the blue hood.  Don't know who the craftsman was to finish the hood.  I know the process to get them this way, but the blue hood is not my work.  : )

[dseretakis]

Ok then.  Your panel gaps look very nice!

[fhernand]

Not really knowing how the hardtop comes apart, it took me 5 hours to disassemble...probably twice as much to put all back together.  Between gently removing chrome, glass, and rusted out screws, it was a laborious adventure.  One never knows what you will find once items are taken off to bare metal.  In this case, the hardtop had been leaking through rear lower and top seals causing major rust to eat it's way on the rear lower metal window suppot.  In this case, I highly recommend media blasting in order to remove all rust from the surface and pours of the metal.  Of course, the job is much easier done when headliner is removed.  Once metal has been clean, a new piece of metal should be welded in areas where rust made holes in the metal.  The new metal will in fact, bring back the support needed.  In order to remove stubborn rusted screws, I found that a small die grinder works the best.  It's a matter of cutting into the head of the screw.  The cut should allow you to use flat head screw driver instead of the Phillips which only spins and burr the top of the screw head.  The flat head will now give you a much stronger leverage.  The rusted screw will either break loose or, break the head of completely.  If the head breaks off completely, the chrome will not pull right off. 

[reggie]

Hope your putting a new headliner in there 

[fhernand]

Reggie, got that covered.  Headliner is going original Ivory.  Hardtop chrome will be redone.  Should look new thereafter. 

[fhernand]

After media blasting you have a better idea of just how much damage the rust accomplished.  A few holes in the metal is not as bad.  With minor holes I mig weld the holes closed being careful not to over heat the metal and warp the panel.  Instead of using bondo as a filler I recommend 3M Automix panel bonding for any rust craters.  The Automix dries extremely hard like metal.  One must use a grinder to take this stuff off.  This stuff only goes on clear bare metal.  After applying three coats of Epoxy Primer over the bare metal, it's ready for for primer and then paint. 

[Ulf]

Wow - you sure seem like a competent and thorough craftsman. The owner of this car is indeed a lucky man!

[fhernand]

Thanks for your compliment.  I'm really passionate about the work I perform.  I get much of satisfaction seeing the car completely done right and a happy owner.  I work on one car at a time which allows me to concentrate on the details and be thorough.  I strive to have integrity in my work.  One always wants the very best work done for your money.  Having to redo work twice due to the use of cheap materials or craftsmanship, is pretty darn expensive, in my opinion.  Thus far, I'm really happy with the process on Mark's Mercedes...things are going great. 

PS. I hope this thread will give owners of these great cars (230SL) some insight on the process of doing a complete bare-metal paint job.  I'm not a member yet, waiting for the opportunity to purchase one in the future

[Peter van Es]

Would it be ok for me to copy some of your texts and pictures to the Technical Manual under a topic of restauration?

That way we'll be able to preserve them well and makes it possible for people to keep finding this?

Peter

[fhernand]

Peter, that would be okay.  I don't think the text and pictures are thorough enough.  However, if you find them useful, by all means use them.  If I get another opportunity to do a second 230SL, I could be much more thorough and post something like a "101 How To" series of articles?  Thanks, Freddie 

[Larry & Norma]

That would be nice

[fhernand]

After a little sanding....hard as nails sanding of the Automix, I was able to apply two coats of epoxy primer and three coats of primer.  Also sprayed on three coats of the Ivory color.  When the upholstery guys get the top, his ready to cover it all up with some original German Vinyl material.  We won't worry about rust any longer on this top.  NOTE: It's crucial to get quality seals when installing the rear window, otherwise, they leak.  It appears the factory placed lot's and lot's of hard sealant under the chrome trim to circumvent leaks.  However, a properly placed window with good quality seals will go a long way. 

[fhernand]

Final sanding is a very important process leading up to base-coat and clear.  I like to do my sanding wet.  Adding a small amount of dish detergent into my water helps clean/degrease the panels.  I continued to use a sanding block first using 320 grit then 400 and final grit 800.  If not adding a sealer before the base-coat, I would stop at 400 grit.  Because these is the final sanding, I double and triple check there is NO dirt on the panel or water.  I keep a clean bucket of water that I only use for wet sanding.  If I use any rags to wipe the panels dry, I make sure these are clean and soft so they don't scratch my surface.  Once the panels are sanded and ready for paint, I don't touch any panels keeping them free of grease from hands..a clean pair of gloves work if you needed to lift or push on the car.  Final sanding is my favorite part of sanding.  Using fine grit paper actually allows you to see some gloss on the panels which helps you appreciate all you hard work gone into good body work.  NOTE: Avoid using bare hands to accomplish final sanding.  Using the palm of your hands will actually leave behind finger marks on the primer.  You will hate yourself when these show under your glossy paint work.

[fhernand]

It was a long day in the booth.  A clean paint job takes plenty of time prepping the car in the booth.  I like to wash the underside of the car prior to taking the car to the booth.  I always have an assistant in the booth with me at all times.  My helper is my second pair of eyes.  He handles the hoses, checks for dirt and pulls out any if found, helps me do the taping and degrease the car.  When there is low light in the booth, I use a Sunlight.  The light gives off "natural" light onto the panels and helps to avoid any areas that need more coats of paint.  I like to have all of my paints ready and mixed and in the guns.  If there is a time in the project that you need to be focused and ready, that time has come.  The booth of choice for me is the down draft.  It pulls any dirt and overspray straight down avoiding the flow of air to drag across your entire car.  Glasurit is a paint that is easy to work with and user friendly.  I follow the mixing and spraying recommendation.  Of course, there might be some variations on PSI out of the gun depending on the application.  Mark's car got three coats of base coat and three coats of clear.  Because you can only fit some much on the booth, I to use the both twice to get the hood, decklid, etc.  Next, it's time for buffing to a greater mirror finish.  Enjoy the pictures. 

[reggie]

I cant see you ever being out of work - thats a realy nice job, i finaly got mine back from the paint shop yesterday - they have made a good job too, one thing i noticed when i kept calling in was - instead of just masking the wheels they cut cardboad to fit inside the wings (fenders) so overspray cant get past under the wings, and they can get plenty on the wheel arches - i thought that was a good idea, also they put pastic string like washing line to lift up the windscreen rubber - so when they take the masking tape off there wasnt an edge left, another good idea, ime in my garage today cleaning it up, and putting things back on. 

Well Done
Reg

[JamesL]

Don't fancy a few weeks in the UK do you?

That's top work!

[fhernand]

Reggie- thanks for the good suggestions. I'm always looking for ways to improve the process.  Because I must Wurth undercoat the wells later, I did not bother with taping them off....the card board idea is one that is going in the note book for sure.  Please post pics of your car would love to see it.  Putting things back together is risky business.  Use plenty of tape on the edges of panels to avoid chips...ask me how I know?  :'(

Tosh- UK here I go.  Have pleny beer and be prepared to get dirty amigo.

Here are a few more pictures of the finished paint work.

[reggie]

My car is in photo section. thats before this recent work - I will do some more when its back together, I put one of the pins from the hard top down somewhere, and cant find it so ive just locked up and hope to find it tomoro-
Reg

[fhernand]

Having sprayed three good wet coats of clear, I can buff safely without buffing off to much clear.  You still want to have a good amount of clear on the paint for protection and durability.  It is important that you use a high quality clear. Having the right tools, buffing pads, and proper compond is critical.  I like using wet sanding paper on my orbital sander to cut a thin layer of clear.  I start with 1000 grit and finish with 1500.  I spray a fine guide coat over the panel...sounds crazy I know but this is important in order to get any dirt and minor imperfections out of the clear.  Also you want to have a orange peel free finish.  I tape the very edges of my hood to make sure I get no over spray on the back side of the hood when I mist the hood.  One light mist of black guide coat will suffice.  The guide coat helps in this case so that you do not sand through the clear.  No need to add any downward pressure on the buffer.  Let the machine do the work for you.  You must watch the edges of panel carefully.  The buffer will eat away faster on the edges.  If you buff through, you will have to repaint.  My first application of compound is a medium cutting compond.  I only work a small area at a time.  It's important to catch the clear when it is still soft.  Normally the next day is good if you are using a medium to fast hardener (they recommend right after cool down if baking your clear).  I follow up with a swirl removing compound using a foam pad making sure that no swirl is left behind.  I like buffing under a florescent light because it allows you to see finer scratches.  My final coat, if baking the finish clear, is two coats of wax.  Thereafter, you have a show room finish.

[dseretakis]

Looking good!  Thanks for the clear explanations. No pun intended

[JamesL]

Sorry, I may be being a bit thick but....

You left the wheels on, removed all the glass but left the interior etc in place? And used lots and lots of tape

I know my car needs work of a rust repair variety and am clutching at "please god, not a complete strip down" straws. That said, if I won the lottery I think I would dip and strip as David Brough has done

[reggie]

I cant see the point in making a load of work for yourself - if your not welding near the interior leave it alone. I think thats a great job in a very short time, id let him do mine for sure. Ime still puttin things back on my car that really didnt need to come off - 

[fhernand]

Tosh-taking the car to the upholstery shop for a full strip down.  Only used one roll of tape   If you do hit the lottery, send the car to me and I will dip and strip with a full nut, bolt and washer restoration.  Will put your car back together and deliver a concours finish in less than 6 months.  How is that for service?

[jaymanek]

Looks good.. the blue car is obviosly photoshop...

My car is currently in the body shop having the side markers removed, bonnet aligned and front end repainted... Although im not sure how well the colour is going to match so could end up being a full respray soon!

[JamesL]

Tosh-taking the car to the upholstery shop for a full strip down.  Only used one roll of tape   If you do hit the lottery, send the car to me and I will dip and strip with a full nut, bolt and washer restoration.  Will put your car back together and deliver a concours finish in less than 6 months.  How is that for service?

But that would mean being without the car for 8 months (including the shipping). Not sure if I'd rather have the rust!

[J. Huber]

Super impressive work, fhernand! So, I gotta ask -- do you work side by side anyone who has experience repairing frame/sill rust on these cars? If I had a magic wand, I'd get that out of the way and then gladly hand you my car next! (and I am in Northern California!)...

[IXLR8]

How much does this paint job cost?


Joe

[fmen3366]

Nice work, Freddie. If you don't mind me asking, where in the SF bay area are you? I'd like to see the finished project if that's OK with you. I'll be sending a PM.

I live in the East Bay area.

Again, kudos to a real pro!

Andy

[reggie]

 another thing i noticed when they put my hood back on - more cardboard along the inner fenders and front panel - seems just right thickness to centre the hood and no paint damage. There a sod to get right without catching something. 

Reg

[fhernand]

Thanks guys for the nice compliments.  It's coming together nicely.  Now, if I can put back together with out a scratch, I will be thrilled.

Andy, I live in Martinez. You are welcome to see the car.  I can be reached at idoporsche@sbcglobal.net

Joe, a properly done full down to metal paint job will go for 15-20K.  You get high grade materials, paint and craftsmanship.  I also include full documentation of the entire project.  It could be less depending on condition of car.

J. Huber, I can do some frame and sill rust work depending how extensive the damage.  Any thing too extensive, I have to turn it over to my journey man frame buddy.

jaymanek, best wishes on your car.  Have them spray out plenty of samples before spraying the car.  It works for me.

[fhernand]

Here is another car that has been inspiring.  I don't think it is photoshop work.  Very clean and well put together...great car.

[Ulf]

Oddly enough - that exact photo is the desktop image on my Mac at the moment, I also have other photos taken in the same setting - an Austin Healey and an MGA, very skilled photographer!

[fhernand]

Ulf, will you provide me with the link to the photographer's website/name or other pictures of his work.  I can really appreciate his skills.  He took a great shot here with what I consider a perfect 3/4 angle of the car from a low point perspective.  I recently purchased my own camera Canon G11.  I have lot's to learn about shooting great car pictures.   I took a few shots this rare 1967 911S Porsche that I restored for a client in San Francisco.  Because I have a "thing" for trains, I found a perfect setting in my own home town.  Freddie

[Surfer65sl]

Freddy,

Excellent work!  Would you be kind enough to post the last completed photo of the Pagoda.

Cheers,

Matt

[Ulf]

Think he is German - www.renestaud.com
But I'm sure you can find a photographer near you that will be able to do your great work justice :-)

Ulf

[mpat]

I've been tracking Freddie's work on my car every day religously thanks to the forum and had the chance to see the car last week just before Freddie and I sent it off to have the interior work started. It's difficult to describe the attention to detail that Freddie has put into the work and how good the end result looks. Even in the fading sunlight last week the paintwork looked incredible and the lines of the car shone through, I'm thrilled that we'll have the car finished , hopefully, by the end of the month and we'll be able to drive it again, with a stunning new paint job and interior. When i bought the car it was an impulse based on a dream I've had for almost 20 years. I got lucky in that the car turned out to have almost no rust and is mechanically in great shape after a full engine rebuild a little over 5000km ago.
When Freddie and I met and I showed him the car it was like a meeting of minds, I'm thrilled to see the project come together and have no doubt that Freddie was without question the man for the job!...the only problem is that he now has me hooked on finding a 911 to restore as well, maybe in a couple of years...

[fhernand]

Mark, thanks for your kind words.  It's been a real treat working on your classic car.  Looking forward to taking some final shots of the completed car.  I'm currently in Medford, Oregon for a few days and will get back to your car in a few days to check on the upholstry process....Freddie

[fhernand]

I got back some of the chrome pieces this week.  Waiting for the car to come back from the upholstry shop to finish up the reassembly and do a finish car photo shoot. 

[Ulf]

We'll be waiting impatiently for those photos, if I had the money, my car would already be on its way to you in a freight container...

:-) Ulf

[fhernand]

Will one of you experts help me source the molding clips for the sides?  Where can I get these?  Thank you.  Freddie

[badali]

I think you can get them from the classic center (Tom Hanson 949-598-4842)  I think they are reasonable in price.  Most clips are inexpensive and they will be the correct part.

[JamesL]

Here is another car that has been inspiring.  I don't think it is photoshop work.  Very clean and well put together...great car.

Sill covers/Rocker covers are..... body coloured....

[Naj ✝︎]

Will one of you experts help me source the molding clips for the sides?  Where can I get these?  Thank you.  Freddie

Hi, Freddie,

This discussion answers all:

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2981.msg59287#msg59287

Naj

[fhernand]

Thank you for such good information. I will call for clips today.  I have the car back from the upholstry shop.  Starting to work on the install of the chrome.   

[Richard116e]

Hi

Also just got my first Pagoda and I am in the UK.  Please can some one advise on what repair sections are available for  the car.  Mainly underbody sections are needed?

Thanks Richard

[JamesL]

Hi Richard, welcome

Pretty much all can be got. Try Mervyn at MB in Poole/Bournemouth classic parts. Or then add in the Dutch/German vedors off the vendor list in the Tech Manual or then try the US - K&K the obvious call

[114015]

Hello Freddie,

Great looking car indeed.
BTW, where did you (or the shop) get that carpet? It looks to me to be Tufting carpet, not square weave - but I may be wrong here. What I love on your carpet is that it is colored two-tone - pepper-and-salt. That would be exactly what I need for my car (only in square weave).
Any idea on this?

Thank you so much for sharing with us this great work and effort

Best,
Achim

[fhernand]

I am hoping that you experts can help me finding a diagram for the reassembly of door handle locks.  I want to document this process.  I did take some pictures for the reassebly but would like to file this information also.  Thanks, Freddie

[fhernand]

Here is a sample of a top-shelf two part base-coat clear coat system...Glasurit water 90-Line and Glasurit high solid clear. I must continue to give this product two thumbs up...way up! Silver metallic is by far the most difficult color to spray in my book due to the challenges in laying down the metallic’s without running them or, having the metallic’s lay down uneven. The 90-line product was a pleasure to spray. The top coat clear layed down like butter. Super high solids making an excellent resistance to weathering and yellowing. Great gloss and holdout.....okay enough, I sound like a Glasurit rep. If you are considering having your car painted, I recommend this system. High cost for this stuff but well worth the pennies.

The project was a bare metal paint restoration. One challenge in the project was closing the gap on the 72 oil filler flap. Most of the these lids come with enormous gaps that do not match any of the other gaps. So, we close the gap to 3-4 mm to match that of the doors. Also, when stripping the paint down to metal, I found rust webs forming behind the primer. Basically, moisture finds it’s way right down to the metal. After scoring the metal with 80 grit, I applied a metal cleaner and conditioner and two coats of epoxy primer this car will never see rust again.   






[

[bogeyman]

I think I like the "in the raw" picture better than the finished product.
Beautiful job.

[Ulf]

Very nice, but we're still waiting for the pics of the finished white Pagoda 

[fhernand]

Finished pictures soon to come my friend.  I likened having a nice painted set of wheels and covers to wearing a good clean shined Allen Edmond shoes...it completes the ensemble.  Here is the process I used on the wheels and covers.  With the wheels, having them media blasted and well protected with epoxy goes a long way.  I recommend using a urethane single stage paint.  On the covers, I used three widths of tape 3/4 1/4 and 2 1/2 inch.  Use good tape like 3M anything else will cause bleed through and will not give you a nice clean sharp edge when you pull the tape off.  It's a process that takes time to get the tape exactly in position.  Once I had the lines down where desired, I used a red scotch pad to sand the chrome finish.  I use a stick to help me get to the edges.  The covers should look dull in appearance once sanded.  I ONLY use metal itch primer on properly sanded chrome.  Two light coats is all it really needs...the primer covers rapidly.  You do not want to put down lots of material since this will only make for a thick edge when pulling of the tape.  A thick edge will make the paint susceptible to chipping.  I normally pull the tape off when paint has cured.  I use a sharp blade to follow the edges of the tape and then gently pull the tape away from the painted edge. 

[114015]

Outstanding work!

Thanks, Freddy, for sharing your great skills with us.
That really looks terrific.
The Porsche looks fantastic too, I highly admire that (car and craftsmanship).

Please keep us updated.

Thanks
Achim

[fhernand]

Thank you Mark for letting be part of your cars history.  Here are the final pictures of Mark's 230sl.  Other than a new front bumper, hood badge..etc., the car is 95% done.  It's amazing how clean the final product can look when I can start with a clean canvas...taking the car down to metal.  I look forward to the time when I can do a second SL and strive to perfect the restoration process on these sexy cars.  Enjoy the before/after pictures.  Freddie

[reggie]

WOW -  Freddie
I have been waiting for them, Thats a nice job, Well done. Treat it to some stainless wiper blades though - 
You are a talented man

[Ulf]

If you don't mind, those pics a going right on my "motivational screensaver" - when I haven't worked for 5 minutes, it starts automatically and reminds me that I need to make some money to keep my Pagoda running
Beautiful work!

Ulf

[fhernand]

I have recieved all the chrome pieces and window seals for the hardtop and will be installing this week.  However, I have a question, I'm trying to figure out how much of the rear lower side of the inside is upholstered...I'm talking the frame work on the lower part of the inside rear window area?  Any pictures would greatly appreicated.  Thank you in advance for your help.  Freddie

[fhernand]

Here is a picture of the area.  I have marked in black the lower area that I believe also gets upholstered in vinyl as the headliner??

[JamesL]

If it helps, mine is upholstered/leather in those areas - not headliner bu seat leather

[49er]

Here is a picture of the area.  I have marked in black the lower area that I believe also gets upholstered in vinyl as the headliner??

Upholstered in the same material as your interior. (either MB Tex or Leather). I posted a picture in this same category "Body, Interior, Paint, etc" under the topic "Got Wood?". Might be of help.

John

[fhernand]

Thank you for the help.

[Bob G]

Did you by Chance take any photo of he  two foil tagsand thei position before you started disassemble. The
ones I need pictures of are the silver foil soft top instructions in the softtop  boot and the blue  foll  loading label on the Left lip pf the truck edge. If o can you send me some pictures please. It is very important  to me.

Warm Regards
Bob Geco
RWGintl@yahoo.com
310-830-8337 day cell phone
563-429-7944 please lease your contact number you can be reached at.
 Thank You!