Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: getsmart on January 02, 2020, 05:22:48
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Hi all,
Does anyone know if the heater lever main frame is a replaceable part? I've not been able to find a part number for this. Mine has completely fallen apart. I'm curious what this was made of as it appears to be almost a cross between bakelite/plastic/alloy of some sort !!!
Mine is from a 1964 230sl.
1st photo is an example of an intact frame and 2nd photo is mine.
Rgds, Joe
The Red Car
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It is a zinc casting (metal). It is unusual that this needs replacement. I think the whole assembly with the levers is still available from Mercedes. It was around $600.00 list at the dealer last time I checked.
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Thanks Joe, yes I don't know how it ended up in such bad condition but its cracked,warped and very brittle - and in 2 pieces (I bought the car as an unfinished project). At $600 USD I'll be fabricating a new one myself - perhaps out of acylic -seems to be strong enough - only problem is mine is in such bad condition that I'd need a good one as an example to get the correct dimensions, especially the dash anchors. Or some accurate engineering diagrams.
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If someone had a few good images of one I may be able to fabricate a new one - the image below is the best I've been able to find so far. Dash mounting point measurements centre to centre would help tremendously.
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This one is from a 230SL 1965.
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I think I would try to find a good used one or modify as sedan unit which is similar in many ways.
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Hello Joe (getsmart),
Fully support what Joe (JA17) mentioned...,
try to find a decent used one.
Making/fabricating/3D-printing one is too much hazzle.
There are/were soo many 230ie parted out in the past,
go and try e.g. Euro7 (ebay) or similar,
at least the first gentleman surely has got numerous ones.
Good luck,
A.
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Thanks Joe/Achim/PWV for your replies. Are you referring to w108/w109 when you mention to use 230e part?
Attached are the w108/109 equivalent. Would you know if they are the right size? Remember I'm talking about the frame, not the control levers.
Rgds, Joe
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Hi all,
Call me stupid or maybe I'm just too tight with money but I couldn't part with the amount of money to buy a used frame so I hatched a plan to fabricate my own out of aluminium.
I had to glue the original frame together (which was in multiple pieces) just so I could take the required measurements to be able to accurately fabricate the new one.
The pics tell the story
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Most impressive, how did the install of the new piece go?
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Respect, nice skills
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Thanks guys,
Yes Jonny all works as it should. And all you need is a router, bandsaw and circular saw. Luckily aluminium is soft and actually does less damage to a wood blade or router bit than most types of wood.
I had to make a template to route the holes and tap and die set for the little M3 and M4 screws.
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I also replaced the original BA7 globes with BA7 leds, bit bright maybe :)
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I will keep these templates just in case someone one day has to reproduce the frame - they are made to suit 3mm Angle aluminium. I used 100mm x 50mm angle at 3mm thickness.
Rgds, Joe
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nice work!
I'm pretty sure there is some felt (or something) that stops the light bleeding around the levers. Make sure you pop that in before installing.
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That might explain the grooves that are in the original frame right at the very front of the frame both top and underside!!! Thanks Col!
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Do you have any more pictures of your manufacturing process?
You should upload pictures and the templates to the tech manual.
PM me and I can help if you are unsure how to do it.
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I think this is a fantastic work and brilliantly documented. Lots of us can benefit from it.
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Thankyou Pawell :)
Unfortunately MrFB I didn't take photos of the manfacturing process. Its extremely detailed and most people would probably just purchase a replacement - its just that I'm such a tight arse!!! And maybe I like a challenge too :)
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Hey Mr Getsmart,
Don’t be modest. You ARE smart, very smart.
Many, many years ago, I used and modified a 108 setup for my 230SL, which I had at the time.
It was a hell-of a job and if I remember correctly, I only replaced the plastic discs.
WELL DONE and please keep the templates.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town
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That looks great sure it was a lot of work.
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If there is demand and a pattern I do have a friend with a local (1 person) CNC machining business in either aluminum or plastic...
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CNC would be the way to go if producing several copies but having an original part would be a preferable starting point.
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Thanks Chris and others,
It did take some engineering with a limited tool set and no way can I let myself throw out the templates with the possibility of someone needing them some day.
Best regards,
Joe
Hey Mr Getsmart,
Don’t be modest. You ARE smart, very smart.
Many, many years ago, I used and modified a 108 setup for my 230SL, which I had at the time.
It was a hell-of a job and if I remember correctly, I only replaced the plastic discs.
WELL DONE and please keep the templates.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town
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Today I finally tried a mock fitment into the dash and by a stroke of luck she fits!!!!
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Joe,
How does the missing radio panel fix in place in the dash? Do you have a photo of that
Gay
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Done this few weeks ago... It takes some time to make it fit nicely along with chrome.
I love the look of radio delete plate. But will put my original Becker Grand Prix TG back...
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Done this few weeks ago... It takes some time to make it fit nicely along with chrome.
I love the look of radio delete plate. But will put my original Becker Grand Prix TG back...
Looks good though Sead and if you ever want to sell your delete plate I might be a buyer.
Also Garry asks how does the radio plate stay in position, the clock would hold it one side but the on the cigarette lighter side there's no frame to hold it
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Looks good though Sead and if you ever want to sell your delete plate I might be a buyer.
Also Garry asks how does the radio plate stay in position, the clock would hold it one side but the on the cigarette lighter side there's no frame to hold it
Radio plate is held by the radio itself, clock and 2 screwa at the bottom. See pics.
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Radio plate is held by the radio itself, clock and 2 screwa at the bottom. See pics.
Thanks Sead, which brackets are used specifically and where attached when the radio is not installed and the delete plate is used instead?
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Thanks Sead, which brackets are used specifically and where attached when the radio is not installed and the delete plate is used instead?
There are no add brackets to hold the radio plate. Chrome above ofcrs gives add support.
Radio delete plate has its own brackets. See pic
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Don't forget the felt on the backside of the center dashboard piece/panel....
;)
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Don't forget the felt on the backside of the center dashboard piece/panel....
;)
Hey Achim
Dont worry. Liegt bereit ;)
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Don't forget the felt on the backside of the center dashboard piece/panel....
;)
All good on that one Achim, my felt is purchased and ready to apply