1967 230SL value

[ButlerCl]

Just curious if anyone knows why a 67 230SL is valued the same on Hagerty as like 66's and 65's when production of the 67 was 185. Seems like the 67 would be more valuable. On NADA the 64-66's value is also significantly higher. I'm looking at a nice original 67 manual with hardtop. It's a very nice car, not a show winner but very nice and original with no rust. The price is 30K which seems about right. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Cliff

[Jordan]

Cliff, just a reminder that anything produced after about September '66 destined for the NA market would have been tagged a '67.  So there would have been a lot more than 185 '67s.  My 230SL was produced in mid October '66.  It is a Euro car so it is registered as a '66.  Had it gone to the US or Canada it would have been registered as a '67.  What is the VIN of the car you are looking at and maybe you could post some pictures.  We all love pictures.

WRT prices, I wouldn't expect to see a premium for a "true" '67.  Just look at the values of the 250SL and 280SL.  There are a lot more 280SL's out there and they are generally higher priced than the 250SL's, assuming similar conditions.

[KevinC]

Cliff,

These figures are supposed to represent actual sales data so the differences could be in what specific cars have actually sold for. IMHO a '63 to '67 230SL is probably "worth" about the same on paper except for some minor improvements as time went on. As far as the 185 in '67 thing it really doesn't add to the value as perhaps a 1 of 185 '67 Corvette with a 427 would. In other words there was nothing dramatically different in a '67 Pagoda vs a '66 or '65. Also keep in mind that the "model year" of the car started in the previous September so many cars built at the end of 1966 were sold as a 1967 model (including mine for instance). The VIN number of the car along with a table on the Technical Manual tab will tell you the month it was produced.

As far as realistic value, I look first at potential rust, then overall mechanics, then body panels, then interior. To me, if all of these sincerely check out then you should be good to go. I know if I wanted to sell my car, I would not accept $30k for it in this market if that tells you anything about the car you are looking at. As always, pictures (Exterior, interior, engine bay, undercarriage) are with a thousand words as they say. Feel free to post some here...I GUARANTEE you'll receive some replies!!

Kevin  

 (I see that I posted at about the same time as Jordan and it seems that we concur!)

[ButlerCl]

Thanks for the info. It was very helpful. This car supposedly was purchased from a California classic car dealer in 97 and brought to ND. The seller says when it was purchased it was a one owner from 67-97. The person that bought it in 97 did sell it to the person selling it now so it's had 3 owners. I haven't got it on a rack yet due to it's in storage and it's been -20 degrees for a few days. He says he has lots of documentation and it has 60,000+ original miles with all original sheetmetal. Interior looks very original including carpet. Looks like dash and door panels have been recovered. Body and paint are very nice. It's also a 4 spd car, does that make it more valuable/desirable? I only have the one picture so far. Thanks

[jameshoward]

I don't think that the box makes any difference to price these days. I also think that the days of 280s or 50s being worth more than 230s are largely over. There are benefits to each car, and the condition of the vehicle is the price-determining step. Some folks will always want a manual; others, an automatic. Some people like red cars, some blue. They are simply factors to be considered when looking for a car. The demand for good cars seems to have pushed up the prices so much that good ones will always get good money - eventually. Other than perhaps the crank upgrade, I much prefer to 230 (I have one) because I like the additional chrome. Discs vs drums isn't an issue if drums are properly set up. After all, many cars and most truck these days still use drums. I've out-paced few 280s and had my arse handed to me by a few more. It's all about the condition these days, I think. Don't  sweat the small stuff. Unless maybe it has a 5 speed originally fitted. That changes things.

[ButlerCl]

To all that replied to my message,
Thanks for your inputs. I did buy the car. I have about $28,500 into it. Traded a 71 Volvo 1800E, 02 BMW K1200RS, 74 MGB GT and $12K. I looked it over pretty good and was impressed how solid and original it appears to be. Not being a Mercedes expert I hope it is. I'll post pictures when I get it out off storage and in my shop. Thanks for all the help. Merry Christmas

Cliff Butler

[KevinC]

Congrats Cliff and Welcome to the Group! Based on the one pic and assuming you did a good rust and mechanicals check, I believe you did just fine. Personally I believe a 230SL and a standard transmission is a nice match up! Once you take some detailed pics post them here and once you've read the comments, you WILL be a Mercedes expert. At least on the W113!

Kevin

[ButlerCl]

I drove the car home and put it in my garage the other day. It drove nice. Only thing I really noticed was a little howling from dash area, assuming speedo cable. Also, 4 speed shifter was very sloppy/loose. Would that usually be a bushing or worn out linkage/shifter part? Thanks and Merry Christmas!

[Jordan]

Cliff, congratulations on bringing home your baby and Merry Christmas. 

Yes the screeming from the dash is probably the speedo cable.  Do a search, lots of info on sorting that out.  And yes again, it sounds like you need to replace your shifter bushings.  That is the very first job I did on my car when I got it and it made a huge difference.  It's a great first project to get acquainted with your new treasure.  Both you and she will appreciate the attention and outcome.

[Rodolfo]

Hi Cliff,

I have a 230 sl manual from 1966. Very happy with it.

About the noise: first determine if it is the speedo or the the Tacho. If you are driving : release gaspedal and use the clutch: if the noise disappears it is the tacho, if not it is the speedo. Then install a new cable, hopefully noise gets away (30 $). If it comes back after a short while, it is the Tacho/Speedo itself which needs to be overhauled (100 $).

About the bushings for the manual gearbox: I also had to exchange them (90 $), solved all isues. Easy job, well described in the Technical manual. Make sure you have the right set for the 230 sl.

bet regards, Rudy

[mgandrew]

So a 5 speed makes a difference? I just bought  250SL 5 speed. # 3956

[jameshoward]

So a 5 speed makes a difference? I just bought  250SL 5 speed. # 3956

Yes. A big one. Especially if it's on the data card (and the car!)

Congratulations.

[mbzse]

a 5 speed originally fitted. That changes things

So a 5 speed makes a difference? I just bought  250SL 5 speed. # 3956

5sp boxes certainly improve the joy of driving our SL:s. What James aims at here is a factory fitted ZF S5-20 gear box, is this what your 250SL is equipped with?
(see metal tag attached to left side of box, also has a serial No and sub-type information)
/Hans in Sweden
.

[ButlerCl]

To all that have responded,
Thanks for all the inputs, I haven't logged on for awhile. I've been real busy building a new house after ours was destroyed by the 2011 flood. I haven't had time to tinker with the 230 yet but have it in my heated garage. I will order the shifter bushing kit soon, any suggestions of where I should get it. I'll take some pictures of the car soon. Thanks again.

Cliff

[mgandrew]

Regarding my 5 speed. When I bought it with out driving it (long term storage and bad gas) the shifter bushings were so worn that the shifter seemed to go into six positions. Thus I thought it was a 5 speed.The shift ball is so worn it is difficult to see the pattern indicated. Upon replacement of the bushings, alas it is a 4 speed.