Recent Posts

1

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by Leester on Today at 22:34:34 »

Relay I get power but not on 56 but 56B?

You are supposed to get power on the plug connector that corresponds to 56b on the ww relay. And power should come from fuse 2. Can you tell where that wire goes to?  Fuse 2?

2

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by lurtch on Today at 22:25:53 »

This is a re-post of the bench check apparatus I designed and used used in 2020. The Vimeo link is still active.

Larry in CA

_________________________________
Hello All

I have been experiencing some rough running on start up along with indications of
a overly rich mixture. After verifying that all the standard mechanical engine settings are satisfactory,
I decided to check out the more difficult one: bad fuel atomization at the tip of the fuel injector. My suspicions were confirmed because three of my injectors had poor dispersion patterns.

 I was able to find a cheap hydro-static tester on Amazon for about US $ 50.00.

I fabricated a holding fixture, silver-soldered a tubing joint, and assembled some fittings and it was ready to start testing
individual injectors.

The book value pressure required to lift the injector pintle is 213 - 256 psi. (15kg/cm2 - 18kg/cm2)   At these pressures a good injector will disburse a very good spray pattern. (see videos) There is an internal filter (not accessible) that can distort the flow of fuel which causes this disruption in the spray pattern. (see videos)     https://vimeo.com/385872636

Regards,

Larry in CA

3

Items for Sale / Re: 1971 Pagoda Project for Sale (car is gone)

« Last post by Garry on Today at 21:54:31 »

Sorry Howard, I missed that.


Good luck with sales.


Garry

4

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by russelljones48 on Today at 21:27:45 »

Thank you.  All of my injectors were retested and although the patterns look good and they chirp as desired the pop pressures are below the minimum of 15 atm or 220.4 psi, per the gauge they pop at 200-210 psi.  Gauge tested (actually reads a little high) as a precaution and the conclusion is that the injectors all pop below spec...   

5

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Tach Works but Whines!

« Last post by Benz Dr. on Today at 21:20:45 »

The main part of a tach or speedo has a shaft with a magnetic flywheel on the end inside of the gauge. The grease on this shaft will dry out or harden overtime and your tach or speedo will complain LOUDLY This is a problem in colder climates but the noise usually go away once it warms up inside your car.

Gauge needs lubrication and cleaning in most cases.

6

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 20:55:46 »

Folding wire is Red White Blue.  So 1 wire is original!

7

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by Cees Klumper on Today at 20:55:07 »

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-0004620693-Replacement-Compatible-Directly/dp/B0CB5MC252

8

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 20:53:13 »

Great on the ignition.  Because I think the chrome part needs to be drilled out on my car which is why I never did it...

9

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by Benz Dr. on Today at 20:52:50 »

Either style injector will work in any Pagoda engine. The injection pump determines how much fuel is delivered, not the injectors. The R1 and R2 injectors have different spray patterns with the R1 being more conical in shape. I prefer the R1 when I can find them.

10

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by Cees Klumper on Today at 20:51:54 »

On my 280 SL, the ignition switch is two parts: one, the front chrome tumbler part the key goes into, and then plugged into the back of that, the actual electrical switch that the connector plugs onto. My car was beginning to be difficult to start due to the switch starting to fail. I think for around $70 I got a complete new switch and problem solved. The chrome tumbler part did not have to come out, I only needed to remove and replace the electrical switch part at the back of the tumbler. 230's may be different?