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Electrical and Instruments / Fuel Gage Not Working
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 18:59:29 »
So I am not getting a reading on the fuel gage.  This did work months ago.  I replaced the fuel sender and it was great.  My wiring mess I assume messed it up.  I checked all the wires today they seem good.  The wires to the plug at 5 & 6 Black Blue and Blue Black I thought maybe were reversed but so I swapped them and still nothing.

I checked the Plug on the fuel send with a MultiMeter.  On the G I am getting 12v on the W something like 5 or 6.  So power is making it back to the sender.  Is there something I could have fried in the actual Fuel gage or should it have blow the fuse first?

My question is... I am trying to see if there is a way to isolate this problem to either the gage or the Fuel sender.  With my Power inverter if I send some power from the plug in the trunk that should engage the Fuel gage if the sender is the issue?  Question is how would I do that? My guess would be is to send some power down the W Terminal since the G is producing 12v?  Or I could do it at the switch and send some power into the 5 or 6 Terminal?  Maybe that is safer?  Or am I just crazy and need to pull out the Instrument Cluster to diagnose this?
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Missing Chrome?
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 16:08:24 »
Hi,
So after getting it all back together I have a gap on the Frame of the car at the door.  I found my original picture and there is a gap there too.  Anyone have a picture of how this should look? I have found a few that show the Dash piece covering it but mine did not fit that way.  Also am I missing a piece of chrome that would cover this or is it just supposed to be painted?  This pic is the original, I will post what it looks like also when I find that picture...
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General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by kampala on Today at 15:16:31 »
Ramair,

Great that you joined as a "full member" and would really appreciate you keeping us in the loop if you do proceed with this project.    Even some of us purists really do respect the custom work.
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I would give Metric Motors a call and ask for advise. They have certainly come across that.
https://mercedesengines.net/
Dirk
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I believe the vibration damper is also just slightly offset like the distributor drive so you "can't" install it 180* off. Not quite enough offset and you can "make" it fit. Not sure why, but seems MB should have made the offset just a tad more.
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Bueno!
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General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by RamAir on Today at 13:14:52 »
Thank You for the information and suggestions. I did price the Mechatronik restoration cost and yes, it's just south of $500,000. My client choked a little bit and asked me to research a stateside shop and we don't necessarily want to do an engine swap, just modern drivability upgrades and restoration. I looked a Mercedes-Benz Classic Center, but they maintain the originality aspect. I to, am a purist snob and the thought of altering from OE gives me hives We are simply looking for a stateside shop attempting to strike a balance between preserving originality and enhancing drivability.
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Exhaust leak is indeed possible, that can sound the same as a valve tick.
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors
« Last post by mdsalemi on Today at 12:25:39 »
I can give you my experience when I rebuilt my fuel injection pump and injectors.

Great, detailed story, Mauro! Thank you for sharing.

Here in the USA, it’s a bit less costly and a bit easier to obtain a set of new R2 injectors. There are many suppliers of them, and the cost is generally less than $100 each… But if I changed mine, I would probably try to have them tested first!

One would expect that the defective ones you received were simply a terrible error on the part of Bosch.
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