Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Figoulu on August 03, 2021, 10:27:35
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Hi,
For those who didn’t read my introduction, in brief i bought a non running 230SL.
After some minor works the car fired up, and was lead to the local MOT just to complete the paper work and make it administratively clear.
Now that the car is mine I’m progressing step by step in order to make it drivable…
Here are some videos that I share on my YouTube channel (sorry it’s in french)
https://youtu.be/zFuTw1gGE5M
https://youtu.be/2W-a0HYLUSI
https://youtu.be/CM2ys6CLqdY
https://youtu.be/VlhvtOTluXo
https://youtu.be/AwLPJmehM58
https://youtu.be/ptl4RjnJ6Kw
https://youtu.be/QibORx7C6y4
The last one:
https://youtu.be/W-mW7F-HJus
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As a first diagnosis the cylinders are worn despite good measured compression.
As an obvious matter the car was running extremely rich, and I have decided to send the fip to a pro for a full refurbishment. I also put the 7 injectors to test them simultaneously… posted yesterday and will get it back by September
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In parallel I removed the gas line and sent it to zinc platers, so call “rainbowed” as the bichromate is now forbidden.
It cost me 25€ and I guess it’s a good deal
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Happy with such result I began removing all the clamps, linkage and other originally zinc plated parts to send them for the same treatment and I’ll keep you posted…
Nevertheless I have several questions and issues I’d like to solve with your help…
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First issue, how to remove the linkage rod from its bracket to send it to the zinc shop ?
This is where I stand and I see no clue…
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Other stuff… could you light me about the item below ?
It seems like a brake fluid reservoir but as the other one is easy to identify I wonder about this little one…
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And…
How to remove this one ? It seems totally stuck…
It seems to flow the coolant inside the block and I’d like to remove it for zinc plating.
Good idea ?
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And… this one ?
Also related to cooling system. I guess it’s the thermostatic timer device.
Good / easy / necessary to remove ?
Note the very bas condition of the connections…
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And finally the oil filter as I guess…
What can I do to renovate it ?
Thanks for your appreciated answers and helps 👍
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Other stuff… could you light me about the item below ?
It seems like a brake fluid reservoir but as the other one is easy to identify I wonder about this little one…
This little plastic bottle of fluid is your clutch fluid (embrayage).
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Thanks Kampala, already something clearer…
I guess the clutch has to be drained and flushed periodically?
I saw the clutch master cylinder… it’s totally toasted, corroded by certainly brake fluid leaks… and this doesn’t make the gear change difficult… anyway, something I will need to address as well as other things…
I filmed today my next YouTube video… showing where I stand and focusing on the cylinder wear…
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Where did you send the FIP? Germany?
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I left it in on my (similar) project
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Just take it of, clean and install new filter. Not too difficult
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Where did you send the FIP? Germany?
No i sent it to a recognized pro in France: http://www.clinique-electro-diesel.fr/
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And… this one ?
Also related to cooling system. I guess it’s the thermostatic timer device.
Good / easy / necessary to remove ?
Note the very bas condition of the connections…
This one I believe comes off by loosening the large central bolt.
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For the linkage rod : i did that last week to replace the 2 bushes of the cross member
I used a light press
(May be your shaft is different from mine ? )
PS: where did you send your parts for plating ? The guy who did that here has retired recently :-\
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For the linkage rod : i did that last week to replace the 2 bushes of the cross member
I used a light press
(May be your shaft is different from mine ? )
PS: where did you send your parts for plating ? The guy who did that here has retired recently :-\
Concerning the rod, it’s the one which is inside the final bracket, at the end of the rod over the rocker cover…
For the plating business, it’s in valence. I guess you could find closer to you. Good luck 👍
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It's imperative that you immerse those injection pipes in diesel oil for as long as possible so as to avoid internal corrosion after the plating process. Once they corrode inside they are scrap.
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It's imperative that you immerse those injection pipes in diesel oil for as long as possible so as to avoid internal corrosion after the plating process. Once they corrode inside they are scrap.
Thanks
I already understood that I couldn’t use any of the other pipes due to inside corrosion. One thing I didn’t understand is why the plating is only on the outside of the pipe and not inside ?
By electrolytic process I thought the inner part would also be plated but… apparently no 🤔🤔🤔
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For the linkage rod : i did that last week to replace the 2 bushes of the cross member
I used a light press
(May be your shaft is different from mine ? )
PS: where did you send your parts for plating ? The guy who did that here has retired recently :-\
Finally I could remove the rod from its bracket by pulling it with the help of a Vice
The bushes are worn, I’ll change them all…
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I post other pics showing various parts that I dismantle to check what needs to be changed and what can be sent to the plating shop…
One very interesting thing is the fuel pressure regulator that can be open to change the membrane if necessary… and we know it could be the cause of a running rich engine…
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I carefully numbered the parts I’ll leave at the shop… a good friend of mine said… “did the car stand under the water as the Titanic ?” 😂😂😂😂
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My last video on my channel is online today:
https://youtu.be/VlhvtOTluXo
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But I watched it two days ago!
Good going, making good progress.
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But I watched it two days ago!
Good going, making good progress.
Then you were quick because once uploaded I removed the public broadcasting to schedule it for Sunday evening 👍👍
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Some parts back from the shop
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Some more ?
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The top picture looks like the hood (bonnet) latch that should be painted body color. Just an FYI depending how picky you want to be.
Others look great
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Thanks for your answer and one more information to store in my knowledge data book
I just did what I thought would be right rather than matching to original. Nevertheless I wonder how the paint would stay on the latch as it’s sort of stainless steel
Would appreciate your comment 👍👍
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There are some extensive discussions on this topic on the Forum. About how come it was body color (which was the result of technological process of chassis manufacturing) and, more interestingly what should be the color of the screws that hold it (also body color, but finally applied by brush). :)
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Hi
Here is the last available episode on my YouTube channel ;D
https://youtu.be/AwLPJmehM58
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Bravo François , ça avance bien tout ça .... ;)
Nice job François , high quality of restoration
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It's been a long time since I last posted
I was puzzled by those old trailer's holes and started to think about it
I then started to learn (quickly) how to weld and jumped into the wild :)
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After grinding the metal patch, I finished with a body filler and used an epoxy paint to finish the job after applying an anti rust paint
Some holes stayed to respect the origin
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Then came the time to put back the freshly restored tank
It's been literraly cut and open, and after deep cleaning, welded back to close it, by a pro
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I also grinded, welded, cured holes, treated, and epoxy painted the trunk and underneath it...
But all in all the original state was fairly good as you can tell from the pictures
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The trunk before / after
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Gas pump, new hoses and tank back on their places...
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The gas lines have been zinc plated and back in place as well
As of now all the gas provision is as new, including the injection pump
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After that being done, I adressed the cooling system, starting by the replacement / refurbishment of the core of the cockpit radiator
This involved to remove all the devices of the dashboard except the revs and tacho...
So glove box, radio, clock, lighter, and heating / cooling levers, fans and other devices were removed, cleaned, lubricated and for the wires totally revised...
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Cockpit filter was rubbish...
And 85€ for a new one, made me to decide to make a new one by myself...
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Spaghettis... Anyone hungry ?
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Old rain draining hoses were toasted... As a consequence light rust settled down on the floor of driver's side...
before / after
I'll take care about the rust later... but soon
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Heating/ cooling levers then and now
I replaced the bulbs by leds... and lubricated levers with teflon grease
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And finally everything back on their places...
Note that original body colour was grey (ref 180 as I remember), and one of the previous owner had it resprayed... without even considering removing the trims...
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I'm now, to complete the job on this area, about to clean the glove box, and cure the reason why the reading light is not running (of course light bulb is ok).
Here again, both coulours on the door of the glove box, shows poorly managed respray...
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Bravo!
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Bravo!
Still a loooooonnnnnggg way
But thanks :D
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Really nice work! Thanks for taking all the photos and sharing them!
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Thanks...
I have more and will prepare a new Youtube video mainly about what I showed today
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My last video about the update of the new refurbished gasoline system…
https://youtu.be/W-mW7F-HJus
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Just watched the video, great progress.
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Thanks a lot
Next to come very soon is about rocker arm tuning and next will be about stater refurbishment 👍
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The last episode
https://youtu.be/TRJPqWk0-pU (https://youtu.be/TRJPqWk0-pU)
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As before... Congratulations for your video. It's quite easy to work on the Engine when we see you ....!
I amalready waiting for the next step...! ;)
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Next one will be the starter refurbishment 👍
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This is the last episode, about starter refurbishment…
https://youtu.be/8ghKjPeb10s (https://youtu.be/8ghKjPeb10s)
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congratulation again François for your Video ;)
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congratulation again François for your Video ;)
Thanks Yves 👍👍
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For those who don't know - subtitles in multiple languages are available.
1. Under the video click on "CC" for closed captioning
2. Then click on the settings wheel to the right of the "CC" and click on the subtitles language option
Great job on the video!
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For those who don't know - subtitles in multiple languages are available.
1. Under the video click on "CC" for closed captioning
2. Then click on the settings wheel to the right of the "CC" and click on the subtitles language option
Great job on the video!
Thank you for the hint 👍
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Some pics about my little milestones… I began by the left side…
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Everything is question of correct ordering and checkings… I fix the screw, unscrew it to remove what I just put before, cause the injection hose can’t be fixed correctly. Again and again, screw, unscrew, get back to the computer to check the pictures taken before removal… in short a long and meticulous process but quiet satisfying
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Figoulu,
What material is on your firewall? Is that the final step, or is that something the firewall pad adheres to?
... a long and meticulous process but quiet satisfying
But that extra work makes it stick in your memory. That helps for the next time parts need replaced/fixed, or the next time someone asks for advice.
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Figoulu,
What material is on your firewall? Is that the final step, or is that something the firewall pad adheres to?
But that extra work makes it stick in your memory. That helps for the next time parts need replaced/fixed, or the next time someone asks for advice.
Sorry... didn't see your post before
I do not have firewall cover, it was missing from the first day i bought the car. I just consider as of now that it's not my priority, as I put all my efforts to be able to restart the engine...
So I just applyed a coat of epoxy paint just to make it look better and cleaner than what is was before (see original pics or my video https://youtu.be/zFuTw1gGE5M?t=701)
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Those days were Relays...
I removed all the covers
Inspected
Cleaned the contacts
Painted the covers
Put everything back in the car...