1
General Discussion / Re: Molding Filling Piece
« Last post by rwstewart1 on Today at 21:14:48 »Thanks for the reply.
I’ll work on aligning them better.
I’ll work on aligning them better.
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2
Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: 230SL Soft top lid molding piece
« Last post by rwstewart1 on Today at 21:11:23 »Thank you for the response.
We have a late (1967) 230SL.
So… The two pieces of chrome molding just butt together in the middle at the base of the upholstered horseshoe?
I thought I had lost the little chrome clip.
We have a late (1967) 230SL.
So… The two pieces of chrome molding just butt together in the middle at the base of the upholstered horseshoe?
I thought I had lost the little chrome clip.
3
Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: 230SL Soft top lid molding piece
« Last post by 66andBlue on Today at 19:00:25 »The part you are looking for (1137500082) was installed only in the very early 230SL cars until Vin 001350 and then eliminated.
4
Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Pagoda Key Cut London UK
« Last post by Pagodatastic on Today at 16:26:20 »Hi,
I am trying to get a copy of my boot (Trunk) key cut and get a key for my glovebox which I have never had. I can take the lock off the glovebox door and take into a shop/key cutter if need be.
Any ideas of any places in London UK or close by that can help?
Thank you
S
I am trying to get a copy of my boot (Trunk) key cut and get a key for my glovebox which I have never had. I can take the lock off the glovebox door and take into a shop/key cutter if need be.
Any ideas of any places in London UK or close by that can help?
Thank you
S
5
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Order for Rear Axel Install
« Last post by dirkbalter on Today at 15:25:34 »What exactly are you asking?
6
Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Anyone know a part number or availability for these little plugs?
« Last post by BobH on Today at 15:18:09 »Stumbled across these when i was looking for something else, if anyone is interested
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256484120277
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256484120277
7
General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by zoegrlh on Today at 13:05:35 »Look at BaT, today there is listing for a Gullwing restromod, the bids at $82,000 and 2 days left. Maybe instead of restromod a 280SL, should think about this Gullwing.
8
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: M129 idling issues
« Last post by Benz Dr. on Today at 06:13:55 »Stock spark pug heat range is too cold - go up two ranges. New Bosch wires often have a carbon core coil wire. Save the ends and get a new piece of metal spark plug cable. Set plug gap to at least .032'' and with electronic you can open up gap to .035'' Spark plug ends should be 1K ohm. Remove all other resistors on the plug wires for optimum performance.
Ignition has to be fully functional before carb tuning.
Ignition has to be fully functional before carb tuning.
9
Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: early 230 Seat Reclining Problem
« Last post by OregonRuby230 on Today at 04:19:03 »I think I found the issue. there is a second loop hook above!! Duh, apologies. when every thing is painted black it just blended in. I’m still not 100% that i’ll get it on the first try but I’m confident I’ll solve it.
10
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: M129 idling issues
« Last post by Heckflosse on Today at 02:52:57 »Plugs are new, just a little sooty. They are NGK, couldn't get Bosch platinum. Stock heat range for the 250S. Properly gapped. I replaced the regular ignition with a 123 electonic set, new coil, and the plug wires came from a Mercedes vendor and have the steel covers; - not sure if they are carbon core, I'll check that. Ballast resistor is out of the equation, as per 123's instructions. Timing and TDC is verified, as is firing order. No slack on the chain, engine was not turned backwards either. Spark appears to be good and on time when I tested it. Amperage and voltage and everything is there.
It ran well enough on this stuff before, why all of a sudden it quit is the mystery.
Yes, the engine misses and backfires. Yes, it doesn't respond to tuning. Any tuning, at at all. No, I don't believe there are any vacuum leaks. It starts immediately, one pump of the gas. Just dies as the rpm drop. Idle set to 1000 plus, in order to get vacuum up from less than ten at that point. Throttle response is crisp, it revs right up, no stumble. Doesn't have any power. It misfires smoothly; has a fairly steady purr to it. It runs lousy very well; - I think I've optimized all the tuning parameters, it's got to be the most responsive, no idling, misfiring POS in the world right now, and that's why I'm leaning to a mechanical issue, tuning doesn't work. I've tuned hundreds of cars, and I've never come across something like this before except on a high mileage engine that was known to have a shot cam and was completely worn out.
Honestly gentlemen, if it was that simple I would have found it by now. I probably have 200 hours of troubleshooting in on this engine by this point. That's what makes this so frustrating. Check the carbs, check the fuel, check the ignition, check the timing. Open the carbs up, check something or an adjustment, replace them back on the car, set throttle shafts to idle, start the car, feather the gas pedal or hold it open so it runs, and then pop the linkages off and start adjusting throttles and mixtures. Nothing changes, nothing at all. Watch the vacuum gauge, which normally should register something, but in this case it does nothing but stays at 10 and that's only if I'm quick off the snap back with a touch of throttle. Otherwise it just does what it does best, wheezes and dies. I can do Zeniths in my sleep at this point, I know every part in them. I have 6 of the animals, and have replaced anything that appears suspect on the 2 that originally came off this engine and didn't have worn out throttle shafts.
(they weren't on the car when I got it, the set that was on there had worn out throttle shafts and I suspected and confirmed a vacuum leak)
All passages in the carb were measured and cleared, in some cases mechanically. One of the other things I do is build old pocket watches, so I'm very particular to detail and fine work, and I'm very patient. My patience with this engine is coming to an end; - I'll try a cam swap, and if that doesn't help, it's coming out and it's getting rebuilt. And then start all over again with good known mechanicals.
This engine is performing like it's completely exhausted and worn out, not just "tired" anymore. The horse has died and continually flogging it isn't helping anyway.
It ran well enough on this stuff before, why all of a sudden it quit is the mystery.
Yes, the engine misses and backfires. Yes, it doesn't respond to tuning. Any tuning, at at all. No, I don't believe there are any vacuum leaks. It starts immediately, one pump of the gas. Just dies as the rpm drop. Idle set to 1000 plus, in order to get vacuum up from less than ten at that point. Throttle response is crisp, it revs right up, no stumble. Doesn't have any power. It misfires smoothly; has a fairly steady purr to it. It runs lousy very well; - I think I've optimized all the tuning parameters, it's got to be the most responsive, no idling, misfiring POS in the world right now, and that's why I'm leaning to a mechanical issue, tuning doesn't work. I've tuned hundreds of cars, and I've never come across something like this before except on a high mileage engine that was known to have a shot cam and was completely worn out.
Honestly gentlemen, if it was that simple I would have found it by now. I probably have 200 hours of troubleshooting in on this engine by this point. That's what makes this so frustrating. Check the carbs, check the fuel, check the ignition, check the timing. Open the carbs up, check something or an adjustment, replace them back on the car, set throttle shafts to idle, start the car, feather the gas pedal or hold it open so it runs, and then pop the linkages off and start adjusting throttles and mixtures. Nothing changes, nothing at all. Watch the vacuum gauge, which normally should register something, but in this case it does nothing but stays at 10 and that's only if I'm quick off the snap back with a touch of throttle. Otherwise it just does what it does best, wheezes and dies. I can do Zeniths in my sleep at this point, I know every part in them. I have 6 of the animals, and have replaced anything that appears suspect on the 2 that originally came off this engine and didn't have worn out throttle shafts.
(they weren't on the car when I got it, the set that was on there had worn out throttle shafts and I suspected and confirmed a vacuum leak)
All passages in the carb were measured and cleared, in some cases mechanically. One of the other things I do is build old pocket watches, so I'm very particular to detail and fine work, and I'm very patient. My patience with this engine is coming to an end; - I'll try a cam swap, and if that doesn't help, it's coming out and it's getting rebuilt. And then start all over again with good known mechanicals.
This engine is performing like it's completely exhausted and worn out, not just "tired" anymore. The horse has died and continually flogging it isn't helping anyway.