Author Topic: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.  (Read 10765 times)

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Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« on: March 12, 2003, 20:40:35 »
I was trying to find a new cowl vent filter (mine was filthy- 30 years of dust) I finally purchased two Shop-Vac Cylindrical Foam filters, Cut them to the right width, Glued the two pieces together using contact cement, then riveted the old wire assemby to the ends. It looks original (except for two glue seams) and only cost $7.50 . The foam seems to be similiar in thickness and density. Thought this may help someone.

Richard Madison

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2003, 21:39:21 »
I haven't looked at the outer cowl area yet.
How do you access the filter?
What do you mean by "riveted" the assembly? Do you use a special tool to do this?

The inside lever that moves the cowl seems a little tight. How do you oil or grease the moving piece in the cowl area? (Sorry, I don't know the correct names for these parts.)

Richard M
« Last Edit: March 12, 2003, 21:40:25 by 280SL71 »
1969 280 SL, Tunis Beige, Euro Model (Italy).

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2003, 22:36:34 »
The cowl is accessed by removing four screws (two on the back-towards the windshield, and two in front). Since my car is in the body shop, I can't be sure how to remove the pivoting vent cover, but I remember it was prewtty straightforward. The filter is below that. I riveted the metal wire assembly to the foam, with plain aluminum rivets and a rivet gun, and they hold (the original uses rivets as well.) Others will have to let us know how to grease the cable assembly. I have heard some soak the cable in solvent, then grease the inside of the cable.

Cees Klumper

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2003, 16:57:19 »
I simply cleaned out the old filter, but I did replace the rubber gasket around the metal flap, which had become very brittle (watch out if you glue it on: it goes on one way and the first time I did this, I put it on backwards). I ran drops of household oil down the cable than controls the flap, holding it up. Same method to grease brake cables of motorcycles, bicycles etc. The flap pivots on two points, located on either side, with plastic washers. I put some lithium grease on those. The flap now opens and closes quite lightly.
When the round air vents inside the cabin are closed, there should be NO air coming through. If there is, you can adjust the ball linkages that are located just behind the air vent louvers. Good idea to clean and grease those, while you're at it.

Cees,


white 1969 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Bob G

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2003, 17:31:56 »
With so many projects to due on my 280SL. the cowel vent service /filter is one I would like to do on a quit Sunday afternoon. I have a new filter from Mercy-bendover -Benz and a new cowel seal. Does any one now if the cowel vent seal should be glued all at once our half a section at a time? What glue do you recommend?
Bob Geco

George Davis

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2003, 09:24:38 »
Bob, the glue on my cowl vent seal looked like contact cement, so that's what I used.  However, I didn't follow the directions on the can since it sticks instantly if you do and errors can't be corrected.  Instead, I cleaned everything up and installed the seal, fit-checked it to be sure it was installed right way around per Cees' note, and then lifted up the edge of the seal and smeared contact cement under it with a Q-tip.  The contact cement stays soft for a little while and things can be shifted a bit if necessary.  Worked all the way around it that way, put it aside for a couple hours to set, and it seems to be fine.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

Cees Klumper

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2003, 14:50:04 »
Actually I did not use any glue when I put the rubber seal on. I know it is supposed to be glued (and on my old one it sure seemed like contact cement was used originally), but the seal stayed on just fine without any glue, and has stayed in place for more than a year now. If I would need to glue it after all, I would probably use something that is not so "unforgiving" as contact cement, because it certainly does not seem like you need all that strength.

Cees

white 1969 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

zoegrlh

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2007, 07:33:37 »
For those of you who want to be authentic, MB still stocks the filters.  The part number is 113 830 01 18.  And it comes all inclusive of the metal wire assembly.

Robert Hyatt
Williamsburg, VA.

1970 280SL, Red on Silver,4-speed, Euro spec; 1999 C230 Kompresser Sport, Black on Black; 1990 Miata, Black on Red, 5 Speed
Robert Hyatt
Williamsburg, VA.

W113, 1970 280SL, Red leather 242 on Silver Gray Met. 180, 4-speed stick, Euro spec, restored
R172 2012 SLK350, Black Premium leather 801 on Mars Red 590, 7-speed auto
W211, 2007 E320 Bluetec, Cashmere MB Tex 144 on Arctic White 650, 7 speed auto

hauser

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Re: Made Replacement Cowl Vent Filter.
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2007, 07:45:20 »
Compared to this I would say that Richard made out very well.  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-230SL-250SL-280SL-FRESH-AIR-VENT-FILTER-W113_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33659QQihZ020QQitemZ300115190464

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.