Surface rust techniques

[J. Huber]

So I was messing with some parts in my engine bay. The breather hose, for example, is a combination of rusty redish patches and bare silver-colored metal. Any original coating is long gone. I just want to clean it up -- I know the best way would be to send it off for replating or whatever... but I'd love advice on how to DYI it. If I use a bench grinder to shine it -- which attachment would be best. Or should I prime and paint with an aluminum paint? No concourse -- just presentable... Any input appreciated.

[johnd]

I'd use a wire brush on the grinder.  I'd probably start with a brass one, and see if that is tough enough to do what you want.  You'll have to recoat with something after.  Watch out for flying bristles from the wire wheel.  Wear safety glasses always.

[waqas]

Don't forget to wear some form of breathing protection... there will be a lot of fine dust and rust particles in the air.

[J. Huber]

You'll have to recoat with something after...

Thanks John, (and Waqas). Now what exactly do you mean by this...

[waqas]

Thanks John, (and Waqas). Now what exactly do you mean by this...

I think John means that you'll have exposed bare metal after your abrasive action, so be prepared to apply a coat [of paint or something] after you're done.

Don't forget before/after pictures for the pagoda family album! 

[J. Huber]

Gotcha Waqas. So I did do a test spot and it shined up to a very shiny metal but also shows some pitting. I suppose a primer and a paint would fill those. Short of painting, is there a clear polish or something that would work? I fish for the details, if you have not noticed!

And Yes I'll document what I can...

[johnd]

Waquas (hi, from Houston) is right.  I was thinking you'd need to apply some coating ont he bare metal.  Eastwood makes a cadmium colored paint to mimic the plating that was there, you could use a zinc spray that will look sort of like zinc plating, or some such.  After brushing, if you have a friend who plays with wood, they may have a stationary belt sander that could help work those pits out, too.

[J. Huber]

Thanks John.

So the proverbial can of woms is now open. One dilemma is any trace of the original goldish (cad?) coloring is gone from my engine bay, save the few small parts I have added in recent years (throttle ball sockets, IP thermo.).. so I think having a golden breather pipe may look strange? so I think I have to come up with a shade of silver...

Are we 100 percent sure the original breather hose even was yellow cad? I have not seen early examples (in color)...

[hkollan]

Hi,

When reading this thread, I can't help but ask myself what in the world is wrong with the original yellow zinc plating, except that it's original, pretty cheap and protects well for a rather long time against corrosion. And it's the only thing that looks good since it's the factory look. :-)

Regards,

Hans

[J. Huber]

Hi Hans, I think I may have set everyone up to avoid the most obvious good answer (yours) because I am cheap and want things done immediately.

The Yellow Zinc Plating idea does sound very good -- that requires farming out, though correct? I would imagine there will be a minimum charge -- so I would need to round up other parts that come off easily (not the IP lines!!)... -- anyone have a short list?

[hkollan]

Hello James,

The list could be long if you really want to go at it,here is a start from the top of my head:

Throttle linkage, battery hold down screws, fuel lines, air filter box lid clamps, air lines, water lines(not the black ones),
brackets for relays, electric wiring, brake and water lines and generally bolts, nuts washers and screws, hood strap hardware, shocks mounting discs etc. The clamps on the expansion tank and on the valve throttle are cad plated not yellow, at least on a 280.

Regards,

Hans

[menesesjesse]

James
I am in the process of cleaning up my parts also.  I cannot afford the plating to all the small parts now so I have decided to protect them from further corrosion.  I have access to a beadblaster that I rent for 10/hr and that takes surface rust down very quick without ruining the part.  I found that using a primer to protect the parts before painting them worked well.  I used a silver paint as a base and then misted gold on the parts.  The result is pretty good and the parts look very presentable.  I also used a filler putty to fix any imperfections.  I will send some pictures of the finished products if you like.  Let me know if your interested in going that route and I may be able to bead blast the parts for you at the cost of me renting the beadblaster.  Hope things work out.
Jesse

[J. Huber]

Thanks for the offer Jesse, and the beadblaster sounds like a good way to go. And thanks Hans for the "short" list!

But, alas, I decided to experiment today. First off though, let me come clean: I have been around here long enough to know that the "correct" way to do this is to send all the parts off to be plated correctly. So please don't shoot. I would love to do it right someday -- but I have bigger fish to fry (floors and sills, other body work, etc) before that will be a reality. In the mean time, here's what I did.

I took a wire brush attached to my drill and cleaned up several bits and pieces -- mostly associated with the breather hose. I then used an self-etching primer, followed by some gold metal paint and then a clearcoat. The pieces turned out "pretty good" -- although the gold is so, well, gold! It is not too far off the yellow zinc battery bolt I had (see last pic) but because the rest of my engine bay has turned gray, the color sticks out like a gold thumb!...

[psmith]

Hi James,

I was/am in the same boat as you when I cleaned up my throttle linkage a few years ago.  I bought the Eastwood "Cad Plating" paint kit.  It comes with 3 cans of paint.  A base gold, and a red and a green that you mist lightly on after the base is dry.  I think it turned out well, but it did stick out like a gold thumb, so I repainted it in Eastwood "steel" later.  Someday, when I bposselize my car, I'll have all the right bits cad plated.

[J. Huber]

Hi Pete, how would you rate the Eastwood Cad kit? I thought about it -- did not quite understand the red and green part of it until now...the mist would give it the more zinky look... I may eventually go back to silver or maybe try Eastwood but its ok for now.

Its funny, I was talking my self into "it doesn't stand out that much" when Shelby (7) walked by the engine bay and exclaimed "Woah, cool Dad. When did you get that gold thing!.." -- so much for denial.

PS. We need to give you credit for coining a new word: "posselize" -- verb: to restore one's Pagoda the correct way!

[psmith]

ahhhh... the honesty of children    Celeste wonders why I have "tiny hair" while she and Mommy have "big hair" 

At first I thought the Eastwood Cad kit was too gold, but looking at pictures of some of our members cars and reading about the difference between cadmium plating and zinc dichromate , I think it looks pretty good.  But you are right.  If the rest of the engine bay doesn't sparkle, it looks kind of funny.

[dseretakis]

I've used the eastwood yellow cad paint before with pretty good results.  At first I thought that it looked painted but after not looking at the part for a few months and forgetting that I even painted it, I actually fooled myself into thinking that it was a new part.  It helps if you clear coat it with the eastwood diamond coat stuff.  Also, a light mist of the yellow cad paint system on cadmium plated parts that are starting to corrode but still have some yellow tinge left freshens them up and makes them look remarkably original.