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General Discussion / Re: New member introductions
« Last post by sjwelna on Today at 03:10:46 »
Intro time.  My name is Steve and I'm in the process of restoring my grandfather's 1965 230sl.  A little back story on the car, A friend of my dad's imported it direct from germany.  He drove it for a while and then sold it to my grand parents.  They drove it in the summers and then it sat in a garage for a long time, including my father's garage where it has sat not running for probably close to 20-25 years.  My father sent it to me to get it running again. 

The car was originally a dark navy blue color but my grandfather had it repainted a silver/gold color.  The car is in great shape but currently trying to get the motor unfrozen.  Looking like a rebuild will be needed.  Everything still works!  (besides the stuck motor that is.... :'( )
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Here are a couple pictures of the gas tank that is showing a good bit of rust internally.
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General Discussion / First post: Time to pull the head and rebuild?
« Last post by sjwelna on Today at 02:46:40 »
First post here guys.  Back story, going through my dad's '65 230sl trying to get it running again.  Went through and did all the filters/fluids I could find.  Car needs some work and hasn't run for probably 20 years.  Everything has been easy peasy until I tried to turn it over....

Pulled plugs, blasted out a lot of chunky/crusty white debris out of cylinder 6.  (I think that's 6, closest one to the firewall).  Put some oil on top of the cylinders to try and turn it over a little to get some new oil pushing through.  Starter goes clunk, engine is frozen up tight.  Bought an boroscope and here is what cylinder 6 looks like after blowing out all the bulk chunks.  The other 5 cylinders are looking pretty good, but I'm thinking the head gasket went on it and leaked coolant into the rear-most cylinder.  I've tried to manually turn the motor over from the crank bolt and also tried with one rear tire off the ground.  No dice, it's locked up tight.  I actually loosened the crank bolt trying to wiggle the crank both directions if that gives you any idea of how locked it is.  I have a ton of PB blaster soaking the top of the pistons at the moment but I'm assuming at this point it needs to have the head pulled, head gasket replaced, and have a good look at that rear cylinder.  I can probably take the head to a machine shop to hot tank and clean it up. 

What would you do?  The ugly pics are the rear most cylinder, I put in a few others of the other cylinders that look much better. 
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General Discussion / Seeking Houston area Mechanic
« Last post by 67230SL-Vinny on Today at 02:04:42 »
Looking for a good shop or mechanic in Houston area familiar with 113's or old Benz cars. Initially just routine maintenance.
Any recommendations appreciated.
Thanks, Vinny
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 00:49:40 »
Ok to add some insult to Injury.  Fixed a leak I had so I fired her up to let her run for a little while.  I did not do anything to the electrical but remove that Relay so it would stop buzzing.  When I start the Blue High Beam light is on.  Won't go off.  One the blinkers on the instrument panel is lit up.  I assume this is just because I pulled the relay but.... the new problem.  when I went to turn the car off... It would not turn off.  Unplugged the battery and tried again nothing.  Turn the key all the way to right like I was starting it, and it turned off.  Could pulling the relay out cause all these new issues?  Tomorrow if I am going to get under and take a look and see if I have any wires pinched or something.  Was really hoping for a drive today.  Hopefully tomorrow.
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oh!  Duh!  Of course it does shut it off.  Thanks!!
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Sorry for delayed response @lreppond. I just contacted Renee at Burlingame Motors regarding some hardtop restoration. Thanks for the tip!
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A previous owner on my Pagoda inserted a manual shut off valve right before the 'real' one at the firewall under the hood. I close it in the summer so my heater is 'off' and my engine cooling works just fine. Come to think of it, I believe that original valve also shuts off the circulation to the heater core, so you should be completely fine if you block off the hose going to the heater core. Not sure if you then also have to block off the hose that comes from the heater core so no coolant can 'backflow' into the heater core, up to the leaking valve.
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Thanks for posting the final outcome Pawell, much appreciated.
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W11x chassis cars / Re: 1961 220Sb stalls when choke is pushed in.
« Last post by badali on May 06, 2024, 21:51:15 »
Joe, Are the pin holes at the end of these what would be plugged? The rest of it didn't look too bad.  I cleaned them and put them back in.  I didn't try to start it yet as I ran out of time again...
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