Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Pawel66 on March 17, 2018, 09:46:41
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I am seeking a bit of advise on this - how to apply Nyalic best. I have read on the forum it seems to be one of the best preservants for the engine bay look and for other areas of our cars. I need a bit of a tip on how to do it.
I brought Nyalic to my place. It took 5 months for it to arrive from the UK, but being fair, they had to figure out the way to bring it to Continent as it is a merchandise classified as dangerous. But it is done, they did a great job and I hope the gate is open now. I probably should not have ordered it in the first place, before the logistics are solved, but I have not noticed the advise on the webpage.
Now my kind request for a handful of tips:
1. I understand I can apply it on all kinds of materials (aluminum, painted steel, rubber, plastic, etc, - is it correct, or are there limitations?
2. I understand I can apply it on surfaces that will be hot (e.g. calipers, fuel injection lines) - is it correct or are there limitations? I do not intend to apply it on exhaust manifolds.
3. Surface preparation: I understand it needs to be clean. Do I have to thoroughly de-grease the surfaces?
Any other tips? Please kindly advise. I know the Nyalic application manual video, but I trust you more.
Pawel
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Pawel,
You should never apply any type of paint product over a greasy surface. Plus its a clear coat which means that you are sealing in the appearance of any dirt grease or rust that you didn't remove forever. I personnaly would not put it on any part that I did not take back to factory appearance before I coated it. I blasted and peaned my aluminum and pot metal before I coated it with Nyalic and then sprayed a small test area before I did the rest. When it was wet I did not like the looks because any small pits in the metal became black when the product was wet, but luckily dried back to almost the original appearance. There are some pieces that I almost wished that I would have blasted them more first, but luckily those were ones that are not easily visable on the car.
The instructions say that it can withstand heat up to 350 degrees. I don't know how hot callipers get but would guess that is less than 350 degrees. The instruction also say do not apply to soft vinyl so I would assume stiffer plastic surfaces would be ok. Not sure you would need or want it on rubber though.
I would guess that it good on any type of metal provided they are prepped right, but perhaps you should reach out the manufacturer if you have any specific concerns. I had no problem with adhesion coating my recently blasted aluminum and Pot metal.
The instructions say to apply one coat but I applied a second coat a day later. I did this as a second coat generally provides a smoother finish which thus is less likely to collect dirt. Its OK to apply a second coat without sanding within a day on most any paint, but one of the advantages of Nyalic is that it is self-etching and doesn't require sanding over perviously painted surfaces as long as they are clean from any grease, silicon, dirt etc.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
John
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John,
Thank you very much for your kind attention and reply!
It confirms some of my suspicions. Yes, I intend to use it on refurbished parts. Good you say som epits appear but then vanish - I would have a heart attack before they vanished..
We will see. My engine bay is, I think, not bad, but there are many mistakes and things to correct. I do them one by one. I think soon the time will come to try to preserve them form fast decay. And I read Nyalic can do the job.
Still have some clamps to change, yellow plating to do and some cleaning and painting - still far from ideal...
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Your engine bay lookd really nice. How did you get your valve cover so clean?
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John, I am afraid my valve cover has a wrong finish. It should be bare aluminum matt (after blasting) and I have bare aluminum, but it is like satin, which is too shiny. It is how I had it, some time ago I made a wrong decision not to blast it, I just cleand it. I cleaned with a Starwax fireplce cleaner...
I think next time I have it removed for valve clearances chek up, I will have it glass blasted. I just need to figure out how to protect the breather channels underneath not to collect and glass beads.
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Pawell,
I posted about using it on calipers. I have no experience I just figured it had to hold up better than bare zinc chromate plating.
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John, I am afraid my valve cover has a wrong finish. It should be bare aluminum matt (after blasting) and I have bare aluminum, but it is like satin, which is too shiny. It is how I had it, some time ago I made a wrong decision not to blast it, I just cleand it. I cleaned with a Starwax fireplce cleaner...
I think next time I have it removed for valve clearances chek up, I will have it glass blasted. I just need to figure out how to protect the breather channels underneath not to collect and glass beads.
Sand inside the valve cover is a real problem. It's very important that the valve cover is perfectly dry inside. Even a little bit trapped in one corner can cause big problems. I always set them aside for a few weeks and then tap them against something solid while checking for anything that falls out. The problem has to do with the baffle and how hard it is to remove grease or crud which also makes it really hard to remove anything that's sticking to that crud.
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I am trying to figure out the same issue. Im thinking about cleaning out the inside, tape off the baffle inside, stuff the insid of the vavle cover with towels, the tape off the bottom of valve cover with shrink tape, and then blast the cover.
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Shvegel, yes, I have read your post certainly, thank you!
To seal the breather and filler is no issue. The bottom: I have seen colleagues here removing the plates from inside and then welding them back on after cleaning. I would probably go for placing the cover on something with self-adhesive so that the cover sticks to it and then watch the blasting.
My mechanic mentioned to me a new technique that does not leave the rsidue he used for my friend's 190SL cover, but I need to speak to him what exactly was it about.
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perhaps screwing it down to a rigid board with some sort of foam between the the board and the valve cover moght be a better bet. Everytime I rely on something sticky like tape to hold while blasting it ends up letting me down.
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Actually that's a PDGI Shvegel! We could bolt them through the valve cover bolt holes which have to be covered anyways. I will still stuff it with towel first just in case.
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All good tips, thank you! People landed on the moon - there must be a way to protect the valve cover ;)
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One more question if I may: have you applied Nyalic on the firewall pad? Would you advise to do that?
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I'm not sure we should all get too excited about Nyalic being the end-all be all. It seems like a great idea but our actual member experience is still faily limmited. I am seeing that there are other products out there designed to do the same thing, but I at least chose to use it because some member experience is better than none.
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Pawell, your engine bay is absolutely gorgeous!
jz
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Thank you! That is very kind of you!
I made some progress since the picture was taken, e.g. replaced all the clamps with Norma. I will paint the power steering fuid reservoir one day, when the fluid is being changed....
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Pawel, I looked at the can today and they say that Nyalic is good to 350 degrees F. should work pretty well on the brake calipers.
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Thank you!
I did quite some applications across the car, hope it works. I do not think I ruined anything yet. I did the rear calipers, I will do front as well.
I noticed it may dissolve some paint types for a moment. Then it all settles, but if you touch it right after application - on some paints you may leave a trace.