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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Anyone know a part number or availability for these little plugs?
« Last post by Davek1 on Today at 10:21:54 »I can ask on Monday. Sounds a good idea
Recent Posts
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by BobH on Today at 08:27:40 »I'm so glad it was something simple and didn't cause something catastrophic, i know you spent time searching, but you've probably learned an awful lot about the car, the wiring and the different parts and how they work together
Is everything now sorted? (apart from the horns)
Go and enjoy driving it!
Is everything now sorted? (apart from the horns)
Go and enjoy driving it!
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 05:59:44 »I will, actually, miss this fascinating and entertaining journey, full of ups and downs and suspense.
Good it is ok now.
Good it is ok now.
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Tap Tap Clicking sound from bottom of Engine
« Last post by Artkez on Today at 05:59:02 »Hello
I am new member to the group and purchased 69 280sl about 6 months ago, from BAT. The car is very nicely restored about 8 years ago including full paint, interior leather and engine and trans out restoration. The top of engine was probably done, not sure if the bottom was done but most likely it was done
I have to say the past 6 months have been a challenging and unpleasant journey. First the Starter broke down and need replacement, and then 1 month later had to again be replaced as the starter failed again, Then a month later the electric fuel pump need replacement since after 30 minutes it would vapor lock and the engine would stop working and needed towing. During the first 3 months of ownership I probably towed the car at least 5 times to the mechanic.
The car would run ok seemed that the power was low and it seemed to run rich because you could smell gas from the exhaust. After a month I attempted to find a specialized Pagoda mechanic to be able to fine tune the engine so that it would be more powerful and less rich. I took this mechanic about 1 month and he attempted to play with the hot valve and attempted to adjust the linkage . The car ran worst and had even less power but it did not smell of gas.
I was not happy with this mechanic and I thought that I may need a new mechanic and I discovered a Pagoda mechanic that came to my house and attempt to get more power by adjusting the valves . After he adjusted the valves the clicking and tap tap noise was very apparent and the clicking was very loud and the car had less power. He came back the next day and redid the valves but the clicking was still there.
A few weeks later I found another mechanic that was more knowledgeable he adjusted the valves to speck but the sound was still there , he said to not drive the car as it could cause more catastrophic damage. He said they need to investigate the top of the engine then the bottom of engine to find the problem of the clicking noise and I would have to wait 2 months before he could see me,
2 days ago I found an older mechanic who was very sympathetic with my problem and seemed like he knew Pagodas . He proceeded to reset the valves, tightened all the rocker arms and repositioned a couple of misplaced springs and adjusted the valve cover so that the it will not hit the cam shaft and tested the compression after readjusting the valves.
He also said that the cam shaft looked great almost like new
After all this the click sound is still there he said that the sound is coming from the bottom of the engine , he said that the top is 100% perfect and the problem is coming from the Bottom of the engine and the engine needs to be pulled out.
He raised the car and the sound was much more noticeable from the bottom of the engine.
He thought it might be the rods or piston arms or crank shaft. He advised not to drive the car at all and only tow it. He thought it would take about 1 -2 months to fix it.
The compressions we all about 100 psi highest 108 low 98. The car does not smoke, no smell of gas, no blue or white smoke
So sorry about the long winded description but I really need some advise and help . Thank you !
Is there anything else that can be done rather than removing the engine
How else can you diagnose this problem
How did this happen ? it seemed like the very first time I adjust the valves with the amateur mechanic is when the clicking sound started. Can the Crank shaft be damaged by jacking up the car from one side and putting too much pressure while turning the shaft ??
Does the engine need to go to a specialized overhaul mechanic shop or can a small time mechanic fix this ? If you pull the engine out should you do a overhaul ??
What should be my next step ? What does this type of fix cost
I am located in Los Angeles – So California area . Any recommendations ?
Arthur
I am new member to the group and purchased 69 280sl about 6 months ago, from BAT. The car is very nicely restored about 8 years ago including full paint, interior leather and engine and trans out restoration. The top of engine was probably done, not sure if the bottom was done but most likely it was done
I have to say the past 6 months have been a challenging and unpleasant journey. First the Starter broke down and need replacement, and then 1 month later had to again be replaced as the starter failed again, Then a month later the electric fuel pump need replacement since after 30 minutes it would vapor lock and the engine would stop working and needed towing. During the first 3 months of ownership I probably towed the car at least 5 times to the mechanic.
The car would run ok seemed that the power was low and it seemed to run rich because you could smell gas from the exhaust. After a month I attempted to find a specialized Pagoda mechanic to be able to fine tune the engine so that it would be more powerful and less rich. I took this mechanic about 1 month and he attempted to play with the hot valve and attempted to adjust the linkage . The car ran worst and had even less power but it did not smell of gas.
I was not happy with this mechanic and I thought that I may need a new mechanic and I discovered a Pagoda mechanic that came to my house and attempt to get more power by adjusting the valves . After he adjusted the valves the clicking and tap tap noise was very apparent and the clicking was very loud and the car had less power. He came back the next day and redid the valves but the clicking was still there.
A few weeks later I found another mechanic that was more knowledgeable he adjusted the valves to speck but the sound was still there , he said to not drive the car as it could cause more catastrophic damage. He said they need to investigate the top of the engine then the bottom of engine to find the problem of the clicking noise and I would have to wait 2 months before he could see me,
2 days ago I found an older mechanic who was very sympathetic with my problem and seemed like he knew Pagodas . He proceeded to reset the valves, tightened all the rocker arms and repositioned a couple of misplaced springs and adjusted the valve cover so that the it will not hit the cam shaft and tested the compression after readjusting the valves.
He also said that the cam shaft looked great almost like new
After all this the click sound is still there he said that the sound is coming from the bottom of the engine , he said that the top is 100% perfect and the problem is coming from the Bottom of the engine and the engine needs to be pulled out.
He raised the car and the sound was much more noticeable from the bottom of the engine.
He thought it might be the rods or piston arms or crank shaft. He advised not to drive the car at all and only tow it. He thought it would take about 1 -2 months to fix it.
The compressions we all about 100 psi highest 108 low 98. The car does not smoke, no smell of gas, no blue or white smoke
So sorry about the long winded description but I really need some advise and help . Thank you !
Is there anything else that can be done rather than removing the engine
How else can you diagnose this problem How did this happen ? it seemed like the very first time I adjust the valves with the amateur mechanic is when the clicking sound started. Can the Crank shaft be damaged by jacking up the car from one side and putting too much pressure while turning the shaft
??Does the engine need to go to a specialized overhaul mechanic shop or can a small time mechanic fix this ? If you pull the engine out should you do a overhaul ??
What should be my next step ? What does this type of fix cost
I am located in Los Angeles – So California area . Any recommendations ?
Arthur
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Steering noise
« Last post by zdr on Today at 04:45:21 »Hi - for several years now, my '69 has made a "groaning" noise from right front corner with low speed turns (at least that's when I can hear it). Happens when turning either right or left, but intermittent. I have replaced the sway bar and drop link bushings along with the drag link (which I felt sure was the source), but still have the issue. The tie rod end bushings look fine. I got a "lube job" from a respected MB mechanic several years ago but that didn't help. Any thoughts/ideas? Could it be the upright on that side?
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
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Wanted To Buy / Window crank insert
« Last post by zdr on Today at 04:34:46 »Hi - need to replace window crank insert in black for my ‘69. Reproduction I found does not match (shown in photo). Any help would be appreciated.
David
David
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by Cees Klumper on Today at 03:07:33 »Hey. what matters is you figured it out! Congrats. We've all overlooked something obvious from time to time, I know I sure have ...
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 02:10:30 »Ok last post before I put myself on Suspension. Put it all back together and connect the correct plug to the correct socket and everything works again.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 00:45:48 »OMG!OMG! I dont even know how to deal with this. I was just going to delete my account and disappear into the darkness. I am at least a week into this mess. Probably 2. I have ripped everything apart.
I am an IDIOT. I was just sitting here and thought. Maybe I should go check and see if the other connector next to this one is the same size. It is. I have ripped apart the wrong Female connector. Just popped the cap off the other one. Matches all the wires. Wow.
I am soooo sorry I have wasted all of your time! I will banish myself from Posting for a while! What a mess I have created now for probably no reason.
I really dont want to hit "post" on this one.
I am an IDIOT. I was just sitting here and thought. Maybe I should go check and see if the other connector next to this one is the same size. It is. I have ripped apart the wrong Female connector. Just popped the cap off the other one. Matches all the wires. Wow.
I am soooo sorry I have wasted all of your time! I will banish myself from Posting for a while! What a mess I have created now for probably no reason.
I really dont want to hit "post" on this one.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by acbrock on May 17, 2024, 23:56:50 »Also... When I first Joined this forum I had just begun and the first issue was the Speed had white goo all over it. I could not figure it out and thru this forum I realized it was the rubber covers for the Speedo and Tach that melted onto all the parts. Could never figure out how that happened. I am guessing now that at some point in the 80s when the original owners son drove the car and put in a modern radio he must have jacked all this up and probably had himself a little electrical fire that melted this rubber caps and force them to replace (poorly) all these wires. Just a guess but might explain this whole mess.