Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: wray on October 23, 2018, 15:56:28
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The book says pry it out. I'd like to do that without harming any surfaces. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
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The book says pry it out. I'd like to do that without harming any surfaces. Any suggestions?
Drill a hole or two in the area of the white ring. Put in long sheet metal screws and pull on them
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Drill as small a hole as possible to minimize metal chips. Maybe a 1/16"? Then use sharp pointed screws, like a drywall screw. There are specific tools for this, but that is the easiest and cheapest way. Just make sure you go back with a small magnet and get all of the drill chips out behind the seal.
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when i changed the seal on my 78 300d I used a seal puller I had bought from harbor freight. worked like a charm
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Matt could you post a picture of the harbor freight tool please?
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Drilled very small hole, used sheet metal screw and out it came. Thanks for the thoughts all.
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Yes, seal pullers work well and are inexpensive. Use a utility knife to knock the sharp corner off the metal opening before driving in the new seal or you may damage it.
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Hi,
there are various forms of seal puller tools, see pictures (harbor freight is #2) or youtube: https://youtu.be/l7ryeygpM2M .
...WRe
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Joe, I assume you mean the small protruding lip the is essentially part of the engine block that needs addressed. This lip extends a fractional amount and is a bit rough in a few areas. Appreciate the clarification.
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I am referring to the sharp corner created by the curved opening where the seal seats and the front flat surface of the block. The corner of the opening is a sharp 90 degree edge. During original assembly at the factory the front seal is installed while the oil pan is off. With your installation, you are installing the seal with the pan is in place. Easing the sharp edge slightly before driving the seal in place, will be less destructive to the new seal.