Author Topic: Rear Axle Alignment Tool? (Read 16326 times)

bpossel · « **on:** March 31, 2008, 03:57:12 »

Hello All,

Does anyone have a "readable" copy (larger file)of this diagram that Arthur Dalton made? Could you please email to me or post on our website?
Thank you very much! Bob

bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320

DavidBrough · « **Reply #1 on:** March 31, 2008, 05:27:52 »

I would also be interested in obtaining a copy as I'm in the process of rebuilding a 3.46 axle.

David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

Naj ✝︎ · « **Reply #2 on:** March 31, 2008, 05:46:20 »

quote:
Originally posted by DavidBrough

I would also be interested in obtaining a copy as I'm in the process of rebuilding a 3.46 axle.

David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

David,

I'll queue up for borrowing this from you as I am well behind on the project.

naj

68 280SL

jeffc280sl · « **Reply #3 on:** March 31, 2008, 07:28:20 »

Bob,

I hope this is clear enough.

Download Attachment:

113tool4a.JPG
57.5 KB

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

jeffc280sl · « **Reply #4 on:** March 31, 2008, 07:28:54 »

Download Attachment:

113tool2.jpg
44.3 KB

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

bpossel · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2008, 11:35:43 »

Hi Jeff,

Yes, thank you!
Very readable!
Bob

bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320

DavidBrough · « **Reply #6 on:** April 01, 2008, 11:09:49 »

Naj,

If I get round to it first then you can have the aligment tool when I'm done.

David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

jameshoward · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2008, 14:15:32 »

I am in the process of replacing all the rubbers on my rear/trailing arm. Is this something I should use? I can't see how it would work given what I've been doing as the various bolts fit into pre-drilled holes and center themselves when done up.

Am I - as I suspect - asking a v stupid question and mixing up apples with carrots?

James

jeffc280sl · « **Reply #8 on:** April 01, 2008, 16:10:08 »

James,

There are two adjustment devices on the rear axle.

The first is the main axle carrier which is mounted to the large bushing/bracket in the trunk. The lower section of the carrier is mounted in such a way that it can be adjusted and moved slightly forwards or backwards.

A second adjustment can be made on the cross strut which secures the axle, again via the main carrier, in place side to side.

I don't think you will have an issue if you didn't change these devices.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

psmith · « **Reply #9 on:** April 01, 2008, 21:21:13 »

So since I am planning on replacing the big differential mount in the trunk, do I need to make one of these to check/set my rear alignment when I'm done? Is there an explanation on how to use it? Thanks.

Pete S.

jeffc280sl · « **Reply #10 on:** April 01, 2008, 22:11:19 »

The adjustment for the differential mount or main axle carrier is at the differential itself. Just changing the mounting/bushing in the trunk will not effect this adjustment.

Download Attachment:

axle adjust.jpg
50.92 KB

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

wwheeler · « **Reply #11 on:** January 30, 2012, 21:24:45 »

I opened this old thread because it has many pictures and the diagram for the rear axle alignment tool.

I am beginnning to make this tool and noticed on the print enlarged by JeffC280sl, that the angle between the alignment post and the right side leg is 110*. That would make the angle on the other side 70* by default. If you take a square to the drawing, the legs are not completely square to the post as the 110* angle would suggest it shouldn't be. So this seems to be intentional.

My question is instead bending the pipe coming off of a preset 90* tee, why not change the lengths of the legs on either side (shorten the left and lengthen the right) and keep the angle at 90*? The only reason I can see is that the tool was built and then "fine tuned" to match a known axle that was in alignment.

Thanks for any input!

Larry & Norma · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2012, 09:53:17 »

I think you will find that it is 90 degrees, its just a bit faint. I made mine 90 degrees and it
worked a treat.

280SE Guy · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2012, 09:57:07 »

Wallace,

I'm not sure where you are seeing the 110 degree angle. The only angle is see is 90 degrees. Here is a complete set of renderings by Arthur Dalton I got from him back in 1998.

Regards,

Bob

wwheeler · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2012, 19:22:33 »

If you look at reply #4 on this thread, the dimension looks to be 110*. All of those dimensions are faint but it doesn't look like 90*. The other funny thing is Bob's picture is totally square where as the one on reply #4 is a little off square. Maybe a scanning problem is causing the unclear dimensions and wavy lines.

Thanks for the replies and those quality pictures Bob. Just what I needed! It would be great to get those posted to the tech manual. I hate doing that sort of thing. The one thing missing is the size of tubing. I think 1/2" fits over the bolts the best. Is that correct?

280SE Guy · « **Reply #15 on:** January 31, 2012, 20:34:38 »

Wallace,

The tubing Arthur used is 1/2" copper so you will need three elbows, one tee, and a length of 1/2" copper pipe. Here are the directions that I did not include in my post, hope you can read the hand writing.

Looking at post #4 it appears that it is a bad scan.

Good luck,

Bob

twistedtree · « **Reply #16 on:** January 31, 2012, 21:37:09 »

I just put this into the tech manual. This is awesome reference material.

wwheeler · « **Reply #17 on:** January 31, 2012, 22:17:29 »

That writting is no worse than mine. Thanks Peter for installing that in the tech manual. If I had tried, I probably would have erased the entire manual.

twistedtree · « **Reply #18 on:** January 31, 2012, 22:20:56 »

Ya, like I'm an expert. I only erased a small part of the manual :-)

wwheeler · « **Reply #19 on:** January 31, 2012, 22:26:46 »

Great job on the addition. I would add that 1/2" copper pipe was used. You can figure it out pretty easily though.

Tomnistuff · « **Reply #20 on:** February 01, 2012, 01:47:51 »

OK! I've looked everywhere, including the wide open internet, to find what is a "center step bearing bolt". It must be a term unique to this group. Can someone please post a photo of what it is? Is it what the BBB calls the "front torque arm mounting bolt" on page 35-1/1? I've seen lots of fixture sketches, photos and dimensions, but I've never seen what the fixture attaches to. HELP!

Thanks,

Tom Kizer

Tomnistuff · « **Reply #21 on:** February 01, 2012, 02:40:52 »

I think, but am not completely sure, that this is the factory version of the rear axle alignment process and tool. I found it on page 40-3/10 of the BBB. If this is what it's all about, then apparently the "step bearing center bolt" really is the front torque arm mounting bolt. Where does the term "step bearing" come from? If I'm wrong, someone please help me understand. In a few weeks, I have to do this to my car when it comes back from the body/paint shop.
Tom Kizer

Tomnistuff · « **Reply #22 on:** February 01, 2012, 02:46:00 »

Moderator!! I just realized I might have violated a copyright on the previous post, by posting a copy of a page from the BBB. If I did, please delete it. Thanks.
Tom Kizer

Peter van Es · « **Reply #23 on:** February 01, 2012, 08:56:04 »

You wouldn't be the first to post the odd page or section of BBB, and I'm sure MB won't come down too hard on us since it is only a single page. If they do, I'll take it down.

280SE Guy · « **Reply #24 on:** February 01, 2012, 11:21:26 »

For the price (todays money) of a nice steak and a couple of drinks you could have bought the proper tool back in the late 1960's for $27.58

I wonder if you could get an MBCA discount on that?

Regards,

Bob

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Author Topic: Rear Axle Alignment Tool? (Read 16326 times)

bpossel

DavidBrough

jeffc280sl

jeffc280sl

bpossel

DavidBrough

jeffc280sl

psmith

jeffc280sl