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I plan to omit the popular choice of heater core bypass.
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Hello,

Since I do not use the heater in my car, I am deleting my heater core. I plan to just cut off the hose that goes into the firewall and block it with a stopper. I will do the same for the outlet from the heater core. How will this affect the cooling of engine? Is the hose to the heater core a second loop? Does the main coolant flow goes through the heater core? Thanks in advance
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The jacking up will have 0 impact on the engine, don't worry about that.

Looking forward to the video, I am sure that will help us all get a better idea of what might be the issue.

Just a thought, it may be pinging due to too much ignition advance, who knows.

o Metric Motors who are one of the few specialists around. They are located in Canoga Park, CA. Although theoretically any good mechanic should be able to do a rebuild, there's too much at stake to take chances and a Metric Motors rebuild will add value to the car whereas a 'no name' mechanic's will not nearly as much. But let's hope we don't need it!

Cees

Thank you I really appreciate the referral to Metric Motors, i will contact them on Monday and Also i will get the video and post it.

I will touch base soon, i noticed that you are in Los Angeles  --   ha ha we need more Pagodas in LA

Thanks    Arthur



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The jacking up will have 0 impact on the engine, don't worry about that.

Since the tapping noise only just started and you say the car ran well before the various mechanics got their hands on it, it may not be something serious (although it might be - just odd that it wasn't there before recently).

Looking forward to the video, I am sure that will help us all get a better idea of what might be the issue.

Just a thought, it may be pinging due to too much ignition advance, who knows.

I would not entrust this engine, if it does need a rebuild/repair, to any local mechanic; I would send it off to Metric Motors who are one of the few specialists around. They are located in Canoga Park, CA. Although theoretically any good mechanic should be able to do a rebuild, there's too much at stake to take chances and a Metric Motors rebuild will add value to the car whereas a 'no name' mechanic's will not nearly as much. But let's hope we don't need it!
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General Discussion / Re: Door bolts
« Last post by zoegrlh on May 18, 2024, 20:30:09 »
I agree with John.  Mine were painted the body color, but I replaced all the bolts and screws with SS bolts and screws and did not paint them. I prefer the look off new SS bolts.
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Hi Dr Benz

Thanks for your reply , i really appreciate your help .  My son and i are partners in the car and we are into it so far past 6 months since we purchased it on BAT , for a little over 100k,  ha ha that does not include the towing ......

i will post  a video of the sound on Monday ,

 but do you think that  the improper unilateral  jacking up of the car while doing the valve adjustments and putting improper  pressure and torque on the crank shaft ??
Can anything else  be done ??  maybe remounting the engine or remounting  the transmission   The transmission was always funny, it would shift hard and always a little late


Truly appreciate  your help

Thanks   Arthur
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I often ask new owners how much they paid for their car. This helps to give me an idea of where they are financially on their car. If the car needs 30K worth of engine and mechanical work it's a good idea to know if it will be a sound investment. At a l

Hi Dr Benz
Thanks for your reply , i really appreciate your help .  My son and i are partners in the car and we are into it so far past 6 months since we purchased it on BAT , for a little over 100k,  ha ha that does not include the towing ......

i will post  a video of the sound on Monday ,

 but do you think that  the improper unilateral  jacking up of the car while doing the valve adjustments and putting improper  pressure and torque on the crank shaft ??
Can anything else  be done ??  maybe remounting the engine or remounting  the transmission   The transmission was always funny, it would shift hard and always a little late


Truly appreciate  your help

Thanks   Arthur














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Hi Bob
Thats a great idea  i will post a video of the sound on Monday, but it sounds nothing like the one you mentioned.  It is more  apparent and constant and increases with the RPM

I'll do a HD video

thanks
Arthur
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I often ask new owners how much they paid for their car. This helps to give me an idea of where they are financially on their car. If the car needs 30K worth of engine and mechanical work it's a good idea to know if it will be a sound investment. At a level like that, it's getting into restoration and not so much maintenance.

You have very low compression and an engine knock; no amount of tuning will fix that.  :(
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors
« Last post by Benz Dr. on May 18, 2024, 18:19:31 »
Thank you.  All of my injectors were retested and although the patterns look good and they chirp as desired the pop pressures are below the minimum of 15 atm or 220.4 psi, per the gauge they pop at 200-210 psi.  Gauge tested (actually reads a little high) as a precaution and the conclusion is that the injectors all pop below spec...   :( :(

I have no problem running injectors that open at 200 PSI. As long as they have a good spray pattern and don't leak, they are likely to work just fine.

 MB sets a lower limit of 150 PSI compression ( on a 280) before rebuilding an engine even though that same engine will run without issues. When they set those limits, they were not thinking about 50 plus years into the future where parts are now getting harder to source and these cars don't see a whole lot of driving. These guidelines were meant for MB dealers who would benefit from getting their customers to spend money on a currently driven car, not an occasional toy.

Save your coins for things you actually need like fuel, insurance, or tires. :)
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