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Rims

This component is part of Wheels and Tires.

Definition

The steel Rim (German: Felg) for the Pagoda came in a number of different types and designations.

The first twelve months of production, 5.5 inch wide rims were fitted, after that 6 inch rims became standard.

Correct rims depends on the model and its VIN. There are probably 5 different steel rims for the W113 in sizes 5.5 J x 14 and 6 J x 14. The later type W 113 rims (from Jan 1968 on) lack the three protrusions which allow the separate hub caps to be fitted.

New rims are no longer available. Hence sources of rims are internet, junk yards, parts dealers, or fellow owners.

Part numbers

All factory fitted Mercedes rims have their spare part number imprinted into the center part of the rim (together with their size). Furthermore you can find the month and year of production, for instance 5 63 where the 63 is stamped below the 5.

• the original 230SL rims were 113 400 00 06 (5.5Jx14H, with pins for the small hub caps), up to approximately serial no. 005500. These rims were made by Südrad in Stuttgart, Südrad part no. 14004M
• mounted from roughly July 1964 on, from VIN 005500 were replacement rims 113 400 01 06 (6Jx14H, with pins for the small [[Hubcap |hub caps])], also made by Südrad in Stuttgart, Südrad part no. 14005M

Rim 113 400 00 06, showing pins

Rim 113 400 01 06, showing pins

Both rims types have 3 pressed-in pins which hold the central hub cab. These pins are still available from MB. In 1965 things changed. The new W 108 (250 S and SE) was introduced and did not get the 230 SL rims. The 108 got new rims (6Jx14H) with MB part no. 108 400 00 02. These rims differ from the 230 ones in that they don't have the 3 pins anymore but instead pressed-in noses that hold the hubcaps. These rims were later taken by MB for the 230 SL too but the last and still valid spare part list 10126 (230 SL Edition C from Jan 1967) does not say from which VIN on. At the same time, the 5.5Jx14H rim was changed in the same way, the new part no. reads 113 400 03 06. These ones are still available new from MB. The 108 400 00 02 are no longer available, they changed to another no. during the 280 SL period. Nowadays you get 6Jx14H rims which start with a 126 number (absolutely non-original). Depending on the VIN of your car, a "1965" model might have got the one (113) or the other kind (108) of rims. My car was built late August 1964, so it would be called a "1965" in the US although it is a true 1964 (with spare wheel well); it still has the 113 400 01 06 rims. So, you can use the W 108 rims without problems. They should be available on better (MB-containing) junk yards.

• replaced by 113 400 03 06 (5.5Jx14H, with noses for the small hub caps)
• then by 108 400 00 02 (6Jx14H, with noses for the small hub caps) when the "new" W 108 showed up

Rim 108 400 00 02 showing noses instead of pins

During production of the 280 SL, the steel rims were changed again. They then had a lot of holes for better aeration of the brakes. Don't have that spare number. Anything with 109 or so. The W123 hubcaps are similar to the one-piece hubcaps the 280 SL has had from serial number 000045 onwards, but W123s used stainless steel wheel covers with steel wheels, whereas early 280 SLs had chrome plated covers. The W123 steel rims are not identical to the 280SL steel rims. The W123 rims can be used instead of the original ones but there are differences in the holes and internal cooling fins.

Part number standard steel bolts: A 170 401 0170. See Wheel Bolts for further information.

Colours

230SL - 280 SL early had the visible outer surface of the rims always painted in body color. The rest of the rim is/was painted with a grayish primer, not with body paint. Anywhere during the later (late) 280 production period, the rims changed again from 108 400 00 02 to something later, probably 115 or 109 or so. Don't know exactly. Those ones might always been black (like W114 rims).

Light weight aluminium rims

Mercedes Benz produced aluminium rims that could replace wheels on cars with hubcaps. The 6Jx14 H2 wheel was used on 1977-81 280E and 300D automobiles. The part number is 123 400 15 02. They can only be used with the one-piece later style Hubcap. Each wheel weighs 11 pounds versus about 21 for the steel. That's a whopping 40 pound savings in unsprung weight. Add the additional 10 pound savings if you have the spare in aluminium as well, and you have a car that is much lighter on its feet; handles a bit better and takes the wheel covers.

Maintenance

• Refinishing rims
• Wheel bolts torque settings

Refinishing rims

The following lists (and gives time estimates) on one brave soulś effort on refinishing his wheels, after consulting the crowd on the forum:

1. Buy anti corrosion paint and final ivory paint = 1,5 hours
2. Go to mechanic and get tires off, and car on 4 "seats"
3. Go to tire shop, get rubber off
4. Take wheels home (total for previous tasks = 3 hours)
5. Clean wheels with special intense de-greaser detergent. Time 20 min x 4 wheels = 1,20 min.
6. Take old silver paint off with home mechanic metallic brush (effectively taking only damaged part of paint, except for very outer part of wheel where polished to metal. Not a perfectly professional job, I do recognize. Time 35 min x 4 wheels = 2,15 hours.
7. Clean again wheels with special intense de-greaser detergent. Time 20 min x 4 wheels = 1,20 min. Amazing how much dirt was left.
8. Paint each wheel with ivory anti-corrosion paint. Only outer part (all visible parts). 25 min x 4 wheels = 1,45 hours.
9. Clean and polish all hubcaps and rims = 3 hours.
10. Let it dry 24 hours and then spray ivory paint on top of anti corrosion ivory paint. 20 min x 4 = 1,20 min.
11. Paint rest of wheel with anti corrosion liquid (transparent), 15 min x 4 = 1 hour.
12. Reverse transportation and installation, alignment of wheels and placing back rims and hubcaps = 5 hours.

Lesson learnt:

1. Time spent in transportation, assembling and de-assembling: 9,5 hours
2. Time spent painting several coats, including taking old paint out: 6,20 hours
3. Time spent cleaning wheels, rims and hubcaps: 5,40 hours

TOTAL time for a job I had never imagined would exist when I bought the car = 21,5 hours (in a week-end, including Friday evening and Monday early morning)

Lessons learned:

1. I did not have enough paint, nor time to have the 5th wheel done. I forgot about it when planning.... probably when I change tires again, in some 3 or 4 years I will get that one done.
2. An original car is not always as original as you think it is when you buy it. Yet it may be a painful and a rewarding job to take it back to original specs....
3. Before I had Dunlops, now I have Goodyears.... and they are so much better. Do not ask me why but after only 20 Km´s (15 miles or so) I can tell a huge difference.

Wheel bolts torque settings

Alloy wheels are torqued to 110 Nm (81 lbf ft), Steel wheels to 90-100 Nm (66 to 74 lbf ft)

Torque the bolts in a ”star” pattern using a hand torque wrench. Do not allow workshops to use an air powered impact wrench, even though they will claim it is "set" to the correct torque! If you can't fight the workshop people off, re-torque yourself when you have arrived back at your garage. Wrong torque can cause wheel disks or brake disks to become twisted and then wobble...
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