Main.TrailIndexPage | Interior | Interior.Glovebox
Glovebox
This component is part of Interior.
Definition
Define the component. Include, if known, the german language word for the component, as well as the English or American equivalent. Show a picture, a diagram.
- Its technical name & common name(s)
- part # - start year & end year
- which area it belongs to - engine, transmission, body, injection etc, link back to the relevant section
Function
Describe, in general terms the function of this component. Meaning what is it there for and what role it plays. Describe how it works, the inside mechanism. Use diagrams to explain.
Maintenance
Describe common maintenance procedures, and common faults that may occur. Describe how these may be diagnosed and resolved. Again, include diagrams, photographs and explanations. Where possible, include measures, tolerances, weights etc.
- Symptoms when it faults
- How to test if it is faulty - what tools to use
- How to fix / change
Link to related components where appropriate.
Old Yahoo content
The following is the content from the old Yahoo documents on the site. It needs to be structured and edited in the correct sections of the entire document. After moving particular content to its correct place in the manual, please delete it here.
My SL's glove box does not stay closed if it is not locked with the key. Is this normal or should there be some kind of spring or catch or something for this? Any part no. available or even where to look?
The lid is normally spring loaded. Seems like your spring is broken. To check the spring take out all of the screws in the glove box, top and bottom. Disconnect the battery. Open the door partially and pull out the whole glove box. There are wires for the light which you need to disconnect. Mine had connectors that I pulled apart. There should be 2 small forks that slide into a spring on the drivers side of the box. Each of the forked ends slides onto a peg on both the door and the glove box case itself. The forks have probably fallen out of the spring. Look around the area where the box was and you can probably find them floating around. I think you can figure out how it works when you look at it. Put it back together and slide the box back in. Make sure the door is partially open when slide it back in other wise you cannot get it in. Be careful putting the wires (for the light) back in otherwise you can short out the light and melt wires. It helps to tape the wires into their channels prior to reinserting the glove box. It is a fairly easy job but be careful not to scratch the paint.
Are the glovebox/map lights supposed to stay on as the glovebox door is lowered? Mine goes out when it reaches full open, but stays lit until then. Seems odd. Another puzzle. What lights are supposed to come on when the trunk is opened? I have a plunger type switch but nothing lights when the lid is up. Are the tailights supposed to illuminate the trunk through the clear lense on the back of them, when the lid is lifted?
The glove box light should remain on when it is fully open - sounds like a short. There is a separate light in the trunk lid that should stay on while open. Note that you have a wire that feeds that light on the left side of the trunk lid.
On my 1967 230 SL (Euro), the trunk light only works when the parking lights (at a minimum) are on (and the trunk is open). The backup lights work the same way. Is this common on the cars, or is my car wired badly?
You will be surprised to know that on my '66 200 Fintail, the light in the trunk also only comes on when the parking lights are on or more lights (and the trunk open). I did check the wiring diagrams and it was made that way. MB must have decided that if you don't need lights on, you don't need a trunk light either. So, yours (230 SL) may have been made the same way as the light switch and lots of other stuff is the same.
I have noticed that many of our cars have lower glove box trim that does not line up well with the remainder of the lower horizontal chrome trim that goes along the dash. The lower glove box trim is frequently higher than the surrounding trim, while the top glove box trim lines up. Anyone know how to fix this? I have played around with the trim and could not get it to line up without getting the top trim out of alignment. The view of the dash is one of the most visually pleasing elements of this car and I would love to get mine lined up properly.
It's a puzzle. And the only thing that keeps going thru your mind is that it must have been perfect when the first owner plunked down his dough at the dealer. Mine was off and after adjusting the 2 rows of screws at the hinge, elongating a couple of screw holes in the lower trim and finally shimming the radio surround and heater chrome I got it 95%. When the interior was replaced with leather it was skived thin enough to allow me to get the last 5%. I still wonder why I had to elongate the lower trim holes, this is still a puzzle to me. And your right the dash is industrial art.
I am lining my glove box with leather and I've noticed that the leather on the cars that I've seen has sewn seams left and right where the material meets in the rear-ward curves between the vertical and horizontal surfaces. On cars covered with MB-Tex vinyl these seems are formed only by gluing the material cleanly into the corners with no sewn seam. I s that observation correct? Do original leather vehicles have sewn seams? Does anyone have good pictures of an original type leather glove box interior? Also, is the leather on the floor of the glove box also glued to a fitted piece of card board as with the Mb-Tex type set-up? Thanks a lot.
That's correct, the leather lining in the glove box has sewn seams. You can see this on the pictures Doug Kim posted here in our photos section a while ago. I don't know exactly now about the bottom of the glove box. I believe it is glued to a piece of sheet metal or aluminum but not cardboard. I might be wrong there now but I do know that there were minor changes during the production run - at least for the 230.
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