Author Topic: directional ambivalence  (Read 6456 times)

enochbell

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directional ambivalence
« on: July 05, 2007, 08:20:50 »
Tick, tock, tick, tock, tick, tock...POP!  That is what my steering wheel sounded/felt like for the last several drives until the POP, but I did not notice any change in steering control.

On inspection, the flange assembly on the steering coupling has loosened such that I can see freeplay in the pins that keep the assembly aligned (there looks to be a spring washer under the head of the pins facing front of car/ in the lower flange, I can not see how they are secured in the assembly toward the rear/in the upper flange?)  Is this as simple as a loose locking nut somewhere?  Am I lucky to have not lost steering while on the road?  Sorry I don't have pics, my daughter "borrowed" my camera.

Thanks,
g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

rogerh113

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2007, 09:11:49 »
Hello,

Not sure if you already know this, but the two halves of the coupling are connected by those metal pins AND nylon/plastic bushings surrounding the pins.  I just replaced the nylon bushings on mine - not too complicated, but do review the postings here on doing it and pay particular attention to the alignment markings.  I think that the pins and associated flanges would keep you from loosing your steering - the loss/deterioration of the bushings adds a lot of play in the steering, and in my case a metalic pop as the flange flopped from one side of the metal pin to the other side....

Regards -- Roger
1966 230SL black 4 speed (250 low compression engine)

enochbell

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2007, 11:59:37 »
Roger,

Yes, you are spot on.  I have ordered the bushings, looks like I have an excuse to smoke cigars in the garage this weekend.  I appreciate the advice.

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

enochbell

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2007, 12:23:25 »
Can anyone confirm the part number for the steering coupler bushings on the W113?  The dealer was not positive on the parts they ordered:

111 462 01 65

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,
g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

66andBlue

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2007, 15:13:05 »
'g',
part number 111 462 01 65  is item #29 in the attached picture. Hope this is the part you need; also you'll need 2 of them.

Download Attachment: SteeringParts.jpg
59.1 KB

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic
« Last Edit: July 05, 2007, 15:17:00 by 66andBlue »
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

enochbell

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #5 on: July 05, 2007, 15:56:16 »
Thanks, that is the part.  And can you believe the dealer (in Atlanta) had it in stock?

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

rogerh113

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #6 on: July 05, 2007, 18:15:54 »
Not a difficult job, but do watch the alignment. Also did not need to jack up the car - no need to be underneath. A trick I found out the hard way - even if you mark alignment with the wheels straight ahead, rotate the steering wheel one full turn one way or the other prior to pulling down the coupling.  If you don't, you will find that the steering arm at the bottom of the steering box will contact the lower 'wishbone' just before the coupling comes loose - really annoying......  By rotating the wheel, the steering arm will be on one side or other of the wishbone, and will clear nicely and the alignment marks will still be accurate.

Regards -- Roger
1966 230SL black 4 speed (250 low compression engine)

enochbell

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2007, 10:00:50 »
This board is awesome, thanks all for the advice on the repair of the steering coupler bushings.  Roger, your technique of turning the wheel 1 x made it a breeze, no need to touch any of the steering arm/tie rod assembly.  Also, I did not need separate the flanges from the steering tube (the upper shaft) or worm (the shaft exiting the steering box).  Instead I just removed the three bolts from inside the wheel well to free the steering box; removed the cotter pins (I HATE cotter pins)from the flange pins and then separated the upper flange from the lower flange.  Reinstalled the fresh bushings in the lower flange and then squeezed the whole assembly back together.  Probably not the book method, but it worked without worrying about aligning the tube and worm splines.

No more tick tock pop.

Total time 1 1/4 hours, no injuries.


Thanks all,

g


'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

JamesL

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2007, 15:02:31 »
sounds like we also saved your lungs at least one cigar! 8)
James L
Oct69 RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather

rwmastel

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Re: directional ambivalence
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2007, 11:13:32 »
quote:
Originally posted by enochbell

Probably not the book method, ...
That's the way I did it.  :D  I recommend that to all 230SL owners facing this minor repair.  It can be done by beginner DIY (Do It Yourself) person, so it's a nice little project anyone starting to work on their own car can do.  People with the newer coupling (not sure when this changed) may have a better method for their situation.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

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