Author Topic: Engine Starting Aid Tour  (Read 33978 times)

ja17

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Engine Starting Aid Tour
« on: July 01, 2006, 06:27:50 »
lots of new information added (11-22-06)
additional information added (7-6-06)

Engine Starting Aid Tour

After much research, combining my own experience, the experience with others and the mass of confusing information in both early and late factory workshop manuals, factory service bulletins, training literature and various other manuals, here are some facts. This is still a work in progress but very much more complete and more comprehensive.  Feel free to add information photos etc. wiring diagrams and more photos to be added soon I hope.

We can start a "tour" here to organize it for easier use. Our experienced group members will fill in additional information I am sure we have other are experts on the subject. We have volumes of information spread all over this site. Part numbers, photos, diagrams and text will be helpful collected in one place will be most helpful to others. The BBBs (early and late) have this information mixed in with dozens of other models and other subjects so sorting it all out can be a challenge even if you have the factory literature.

First of all the most important factor for engine starting  is to have a good strong ignition and proper fuel supply. These items should be checked before diving into the complexities of the fuel injection system, having the engine in good tune and testing the fuel pressure and volume will often times solve starting problems.

Part descriptions can be confusing, the BBB is not  entirely consistent on the terminology of these devices.   Both starting devices ( intake starting valve and injection pump fuel enrichment solenoid) are actuated by a electrical solenoid controlled by an electrical relay. Engine coolant temperature sensors like the "thermo switch" and "thermo switch"  sense coolant temperatures and send the feedback to the electrical relays.  Some models had a "time switch which actuated one of the relays for a one second duration.  

Part Descriptions

The "thermo switch" was a single terminal sensor which was used only on the earliest 230SLs and earlier sedan engines (described in the early BBB as version ll). The thermo switch was not used on any of the later versions. In fact a factory modification involved in disconnecting the thermo time switch and leaving it unhooked along with other modifications (more info. below). It functioned by  providing ground (earth) to a relay at temperatures  below 113 F. (45 C.).

(thermo switch  photo soon here, anyone?)

The "thermo time switch", similar but different from the "thermo switch", senses coolant temperature and provides a time interval for it's feedback to a relay.  Early 230SL systems, (version ll) had both a "thermo time switch" and a "thermo switch" along with two relays and a "time switch" !! The "thermo time switch" sensed engine coolant temperature and regulated the activation of these devices longer as coolant  temperature decreased.

(thermo time switch  photo soon here, anyone?)

The "time switch" was the little round relay mounted along side the rectangular relays.  It was used on versions l and ll (230SL).  Its function was to regulate the duration of the starting devices to one second under certain conditions. A time switch and wiring harness could be added as a factory modification to improve hot starting on some later W113s (see below). There are several different "thermo time switches" used on these W113 cars over the years of production. The main difference in function is the temperature range of when the device is actuated and how long (duration in seconds) it is actuated during the cold starting process.

( time switch  photo soon here, anyone?)


"Relay l" and  "Relay II" are standard electrical relays used to control positive current to the two starting devices. Only the early 230SL systems (version II) used both relays. These mounted next to the windscreen washer bag and brake booster along the fender apron. Don't be confused by the wiper relay also mounted with one or two of these starting aid relays.


The "Intake Starting Valve;  this device on the intake manifold near right  fender is most often called the "starting valve" in the BBB. It is also referred to as the Cold Start Valve (CSV). This device consists of a electrical solenoid and a valve which allows extra fuel to spray into the intake manifold at specific temperatures for starting. Here is some one's nice photo with text added by "iceberg" of the "intake starting solenoid". The W113 cars had two different size "intake starting valves" one was physically smaller.

The "injection pump fuel enrichment solenoid", was mounted on the rear cover of the injection pump. It is simply an electrical solenoid which moves the rack in the injection pump to full rich during certain starting conditions. It receives it's positive current via  relay I.  A second "shut off" solenoid (below the fuel enrichment solenoid) was added to the back of the injection pumps in later years it was not a starting aid. The last version, 1970 and later, had no fuel enrichment solenoid at all.  Don't confuse the "shut off" solenoid on these models. Bosch had re-designed the ball valves in the injection pump and changed the intake starting valve so that the injection pump starting solenoid was no longer needed for starting.

Download Attachment: W113 starting aids.jpg 3.jpg
32.87 KB

How They Function;

 The earliest 230SLs  used an early configuration referred to as "version II" in the Shop Manual.   On this version the intake starting valve activates at engine coolant temp. of less than 113 F.. ( 45 C.) when the starter is activated.  The injection pump enrichment solenoid activates for one second with the starter at coolant temperatures above 41 F. (5  C.).  At temperatures below 41 F. (5 C.) this unit (injection pump enrichment solenoid) also activates and the activation period increases up to 17 seconds  as the temperature decreases (up to 17 seconds at 0 F. (-20 C.).  
A factory modification could be performed to improve starting as in version lll, by switching a couple wires and changing to  the later 35 C. (95 F.)" thermo time switch".


Version lll; (includes the later 230SL. on this version the intake starting valve and the injection pump fuel enrichment solenoid both activate whenever the starter is activated. Above engine coolant temp. of 95 F. (35 C.) activation is only for one second. Below this temperature both units activate longer as the temperature decreases (up to 17 second at Zero F.  or -20 C).

Two later versions were used on the 250SL and 280SL  (1965- 1970) series cars which were similar but different.

Some time after 1965  the" time relay" was deleted. At engine temperatures below 95 F.(35 C.)  the intake starting solenoid  activated by the starter , increasing in activation period, with temperature, for up to 12 seconds at Zero F. or -20 C.  The" injection pump fuel enrichment solenoid" activates at all temperatures with the starter. A factory modification (relay and small wiring harness) could  be added to activate the intake starting solenoid for one second at temperatures above 95 F (35 C.).


After 1970, the fuel enrichment solenoid on the injection pump was illuminated by making other improvements on the injection pump and intake starting solenoid. The intake solenoid activates with the starter, at temperatures below 95 F. (35 C.). increasing in duration to up to 12 seconds at Zero F.  (-20 C.).  A factory modification (relay and small wiring harness) could also be added to activate the intake starting solenoid for one second at temperatures above 95 F.

b]Download Attachment: icebergs photo of intake cold start valve.jpg
64.48 KB

The easiest way to test these units is to use a test lamp on the electrical terminal of the solenoid during the engine starting process. If power is not delivered during starting, the electrical relay is not working or the "thermo time switch" is defective.

In many cases a non working relay can be restored by simply cleaning its electrical contacts.

Download Attachment:[/b] injection pump sol.JPG
60.08 KB

The very latest 280SLs were equipped with injection pumps with no injection pump starting solenoid. However, some of these injection pumps may be equipped with "fuel shut off solenoids". Be careful not to confuse the two. I will try to post pictures of the different configurations. The later BBB offers a lot of information on the later replacement pumps (later BBB 07-11/2 through 07-ll/6, and 07-16/1 and 07-16/2).



The last device, which is not actually a "starting device" is the "WRD" or the Warm Running Device" on the injection pump. It may effect cold starting if the device is stuck in the hot or lean position. This unit will change the fuel mixture and air intake of the engine at the injection pump. Engine coolant flowing through the unit changes the position of a slide valve and plunger via a "heat feeler" (thermostat). These do get stuck from inactivity. Dis-assembly and cleaning will often restore its function. Page 07-14/3 of the later BBB has some nice photos, diagrams and text on the later "WRD".

The unit is located on the top rear of the injection pump and can be identified by the engine coolant lines going to it. Listening for air rushing in the small cylindrical air filter during the warm up cycle of the engine can tell you if it is functioning. These air filters must first be checked to see if it is clear. Remove it and test it. Check the function of the "WRD" by listening for the suction at the "WRD" air filter by using a section of rubber hose as stethoscope.

Some of the earliest versions of the WRD had no separate air filter but had an air passage but had a separate air line plumbed back to the main air filter.

The early 230SLs had a injection pump and WRD which was different from the later W113 cars. The function was the same but many components were unique to these early cars.




Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio



« Last Edit: November 22, 2006, 22:14:22 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

enochbell

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2006, 10:22:31 »
Joe and the board,

I have a PDF file of a tour of the starting system and IP that is very good and complete.  It was sent to me by a board member several years ago.  I would be happy to forward it via email to anyone interested.  Alternatively, if anyone knows how to post a PDF file maybe it could make it to the general discussion board.

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

jeffc280sl

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2006, 11:29:19 »
Thanks for your great idea Joe.

The diagram you provided shows a single solenoid on the injection pump.  This is the case with my 1970 280SL.  It is my understanding that this solenoid is the fuel shut off solenoid which is activated by the emissions system.  If correct this leads me to believe that I do not have a FIP starting solenoid.  Is it correct to say that only those FIPs with two solenoids have a starting solenoid?



Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

iceberg

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2006, 12:15:09 »
I really apprecaite Joe giving me credit for the pictures, but these are not my pictures.  These were posted on the site by other members and I just downloaded them and added text to them. This is just a disclaimer to aviod taking credit for someone elses work.

« Last Edit: July 01, 2006, 12:15:35 by iceberg »

J. Huber

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2006, 13:07:01 »
Excellent idea to have this info in one place. Thanks Joe.

If I may add one note: Joe describes the "intake starting valve" and mentions it is often referred to as "starting valve". In my days here and elsewhere, the name Cold Start Valve or CSV have been used extensively as well. Could we somehow edit that in?

Humbly, JH

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Chad

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2006, 22:32:07 »
This thread will be a real pearl for me.

1967 230SL (Manual, rustless driver)

psmith

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2006, 00:24:18 »
This looks like a good start to a Pagoda wiki.  What do you think Mr. Moderator?

Pete S.

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2006, 05:53:54 »
Great write-up Joe.  I can only see one correction:

Joe wrote: "The relays which activate these units are located along the hood opening on the right side of the engine compartment. Exact location may vary slightly depending on model W113."

I BELIEVE FOR ALL W113 MODELS, THE RELAYS FOR STARTING AIDS ARE ON THE LEFT[/b] SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.



JEFFC280SL wrote: "The diagram you provided shows a single solenoid on the injection pump. This is the case with my 1970 280SL. It is my understanding that this solenoid is the fuel shut off solenoid which is activated by the emissions system. If correct this leads me to believe that I do not have a FIP starting solenoid. Is it correct to say that only those FIPs with two solenoids have a starting solenoid?"

ALL W113 CARS HAVE A STARTING SOLENOID ON THE BACK OF THE FUEL INJECTOR PUMP EXCEPT FOR LATE 280SL's. HENCE, A LATE USA 280SL WILL HAVE ONLY A FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID AND A LATE NON-USA 280SL WILL HAVE NO SOLENOID.  

However Jeff, there are many earlier models with only one solenoid on the back the FIP...but these are starting solenoids.

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1987 560SL
« Last Edit: July 02, 2006, 08:23:09 by JPMOSE »
Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1970 280SE 3.5 Cabriolet
1987 560SL

ja17

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2006, 07:21:04 »
Hello Guys,
Thanks for the input; Yes, JP, of coarse the relays are on the LEFT side of the engine compartment! I will correct the first post.

"enochbel", if you send me the pdf I will try to add it, thanks.

"iceberg", thanks for adding text to  the nice taken by another I will credit the unknown photographer.

Hello JP, actually my late BBB describes the R23 and some of the other very late injection pumps as having no starting solenoid. I am not sure when the production start was but the BBB does list the late 280SL. This changed occured near the end of W113 production. These pumps have no openings for the solenoid but may have the fuel shut off solenoid. I will also add the other terminology for the intake starting valve (CSV, cold start valve)into the text. Thanks!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

n/a

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #9 on: July 03, 2006, 13:59:24 »
Hello everybody!  I am a new member on this forum and I will start by asking a stupid? question. I have a 1970, 280 SL whos fuel injector pump is in a "messed up" condition. I have found a "new" one from a very late car(found in a scrapyard..yes it can happen in Sweden). It has no solenoids at the back as described in previous discussions and the idle screw seat looks a bit different. Question is: Can I use this pump on my car whitout major non original alternations?
Very thankful if someone can help he with this!

Best Regards/Ulrik Sjöberg/Sweden

enochbell

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2006, 11:32:31 »
I look forward to responses from the engineers in the group but for now, strictly speaking, the pumps will all fit but they are not really interchangeable.  For one, your original has an oil feed for lubrication; earlier models have self-contained lubrication resevoirs.  So if you are installing a very early pump you will need to block the oil feed that went to the original one.  Second, and more importantly, each pump model has a different "map": fuel volume is regulated by a complex relationship -- managed by a very sensitive, ground in three dimensions, semi-spherical cam -- between throttle angle, tip-in rate, and RPM's.  I understand that models can be swapped and will allow the car to run, but it will never be "right" against spec.  Maybe the cam can be swapped?  Don't know for sure, but I would get advice from a real expert before investing in this: it may be better in the long run to have your original pump rebuilt.

Best,
g

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

rwmastel

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2006, 09:40:24 »
quote:
Originally posted by Ulrik Sjoberg

I have found a "new" one from a very late car(found in a scrapyard). It has no solenoids at the back as described in previous discussions and the idle screw seat looks a bit different. Question is: Can I use this pump on my car whitout major non original alternations?
Ulirk,

There should be an ID plate on the pump.  What model number is it?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

Did you search the forum before asking?
2017 C43 AMG
2006 Wrangler Rubicon
1966 230SL

ja17

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2006, 22:36:03 »
Hello Ulrik, and Greg,

In actuality, Mercedes specifies later replacement injection pumps in many instances. This can be done with only some minor adjustments or modifications in most circumstances. Page 07-16/1 of the later BBB gives many of the details. In fact the latest replacement pump for the 280SL is an improved version with 4mm ball check valve and with no starting solenoids or shut off solenoids at all. They do specify some modifications along with the pump, like replacing the intake starting valve with the later(higher volume unit) Bosch #EP/EV 2/5, Mercedes# 000 071 26 37.  So try to get this part off your parts car also because it is very pricey new!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

113gray

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2006, 08:40:32 »
Joehio, Again a good thread from Blacklick! Interesting how many versions of these FIP's there were. That on my '66 230SL has features of both of those you show in the added "solenoid" photos. Good stuff. Between you & Pete Lesler, some of us are actually getting more comfortable around these amazing devices. Thanks,    -JP-
« Last Edit: July 06, 2006, 08:41:44 by 113gray »

ja17

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #14 on: July 06, 2006, 21:46:33 »
Hello Jim,

I am working on the information for the 230SLs to add to the "tour" next. Some of the early versions are complex. I think there are three or four variations for the 230SL alone. Thanks,

Joe

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Peter van Es

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #15 on: July 07, 2006, 15:27:40 »
Dear all,

just mail me the pdf on admin@sl113.org and I'll post it so that everyone can download it.

On the comment regarding the wiki, I did indeed experiment with creating a Wiki so that we can jointly create a manual using that technology and correct stuff as we go along. A lot easier than searching posts with corrections and so on, and able to put in-line text in.

However, although some of us are familiar with Wikis and how to edit and update it, most of us probably are not.

I had a go with a simplified Wiki (hosted by www.jot.com) but they went commercial and deleted my structure. Plus the cost of that is very high. I could try and host a Wiki on our site, but we need a number of committed people to search through our Forums and to transfer the information on to a Wiki in a structured manner. It's quite a major task, and I do not have the time to devote to setting it up. Any volunteers with Wiki usage knowledge and time to spare?

Peter

Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280 SL
1970 280SL. System Admin of the site. Please do not mail or PM me questions on Pagoda's... I'm not likely to know the answer.  Please post on the forum instead!

rwmastel

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #16 on: July 08, 2006, 14:27:14 »
quote:
Originally posted by vanesp

just mail me the pdf on admin@sl113.org and I'll post it so that everyone can download it.
So, who created this .pdf file and do they mind that the whole world has access to it?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

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rwmastel

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #17 on: July 08, 2006, 14:30:05 »
quote:
Originally posted by vanesp

Any volunteers with Wiki usage knowledge and time to spare?
I believe Cees collected over 20 volunteers to work on the manual.  I doubt they have much Wiki experience, but maybe enough of them can learn and teach each other??

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

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2017 C43 AMG
2006 Wrangler Rubicon
1966 230SL

psmith

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #18 on: July 08, 2006, 23:54:25 »
I don't know anything about creating a wiki, but I like the concept.  What I was thinking was that you could start fresh, with a great beginning like Joe's here and people could add on or change things as we go.  Certainly anyone could cut and paste portions of previous discussions if they wanted.

Pete S.

Abbas

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #19 on: July 09, 2006, 09:43:35 »
Hi All,
  Wiki is a great idea but without structure it would be another forum info rather than a useful manual. If I may suggest we agree on the structure of the information. For example for each part we describe it as follows:
  - Its technical name & common name(s)
  - part # - start year & end year
  - which are it belongs to - engine, trans, body, injection etc..
  - Function - meaning what is it there for - what role it plays
  - How it works - inside mechanism
  - Symptoms when it faults
  - How to test if it is faulty - what tools to use
  - How to fix / change

This is just a small suggestion. Please include my name as well into the team.

Abbas
280SL W113 1969 Ivory
E280 W124 1995 Silver
« Last Edit: July 09, 2006, 09:51:07 by Abbas »

merrill

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2006, 19:22:36 »
Joe,
how do you test the thermostat on a 66 230 sl.
the temp stamped on the thermostat, 20 +75.

heated the unit in hot water, 160 f , no change in the pin
cooled the unit down in ice water, no chance in the pin.

is this shot?  there are notes in the service history of the car running rich.  

If this is shot where can I get a replacement?

matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

ja17

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2006, 22:40:07 »
Hello Matt,

Yes it definitely should move. It may take some pressure to get the pin in all the way in at first. Depending on what pump you have, some increase  .5mm for every 20 degees centigrade.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

merrill

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #22 on: September 05, 2006, 11:41:49 »
Joe,
just talked to ray at buds benz,  according to him, the thermostat can be rebuilt for about $195.oo us.

he is going to check the price and let me know.

matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

rwmastel

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #23 on: September 05, 2006, 13:23:01 »
Matt,

Make sure he knows it's a 230SL part.  These are different than on 280SL and I think NLA.  He may have a stock of old ones that he can use - who knows?  Just make sure he knows what you have.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

Did you search the forum before asking?
2017 C43 AMG
2006 Wrangler Rubicon
1966 230SL

merrill

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Re: Engine Starting Aid Tour
« Reply #24 on: September 05, 2006, 16:11:45 »
Rodd,
well, on top of it all, the pin that goes between the thermostat and the inj pump is missing.  sure would suck to get a good thermostat and miss the pin that connects it all.

If it is not one thing it is another.

matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230