Author Topic: What's it worth?  (Read 3525 times)

jammer

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What's it worth?
« on: July 13, 2006, 00:32:48 »
Hello all,

I am considering the purchase of one of two cars.  The first is a '71 280SL, one owner, original medium blue paint, 45k miles, no records.  The other car is a '70 280SL, brown repaint, 2nd owner since mid 80's, 85k miles.  Both are automatic, claimed to have no rust, no accidents and seem very presentable.  Haven't seen either in person yet but talked with their owners who sounded credible.  I am a little concerned about how little the first car has been driven.  Assuming the owners' descriptions are accurate and no major issues are identified after inspecting the cars, how would you describe paying $25k and $20k for the first and second respectively (steal, fair, or too much)?

Many thanks.

Douglas

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2006, 05:13:33 »
Seems like the first car doesn't add up -- an original-owner car with no records? Usually the cars with little-to-no records are the ones that have traded hands a few times. The one time you can generally get decent records is with an original-owner car. The cynic in me says that the seller is not being forthcoming for some reason.

Related question: Who services the car? I guess if the owner is the DIY sort, then records may not be kept. Otherwise, you may be able to speak with a mechanic who may have even known the car for years and years.

Douglas Kim
New York
USA

JOS

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2006, 06:43:32 »
Are the cars near you? That you can inspect them or have a knowledgeable person inspect the cars for you. If the cars are near one of our members I know that we would help you inspect the vehicles.

France

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2006, 07:41:02 »
Hi Guys,

I'm with Douglas; I'm suspicious.  45K and no records, when you bought the car new?? That's about 1,200 mi per year.  Surely the owner would have mentioned if it had been in extended storage? If everything were original, it was babied, and the body/interior/engine matched the low mileage, this car would be worth more like upwards of $40K.  Agree?  Well, OK, maybe $35K, but I'm used to European prices!

Now, there are sometimes extenuating circumstances.  But you know that while owners can lie, cars can't, and an inspection will reveal all, as JOS advocates.


Trice
1968 280SL US, signal red/bl leather, auto, kinder
Sarasota FL; Alsace France
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2006, 07:47:19 by France »
Trice
1968 280SL US, signal red/bl leather, auto, kinder seat
Austrian Alps
Think of your Pagoda as a woman with a past...

joelj

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2006, 07:45:25 »
i agree with Jos, have someone look the car over if you can't do it yourself. The investment in doing so will be worth it at the end of the day.

At 20-25K assuming the cars are as described sounds pretty fair to me. If there is really no rust and you don't have to do anything with the car and everything works and the soft top is in great shape etc then I think it would be  a steal. I bought mine in 2005 a little less than USD 30,000. It was a decent daily driver 280sl, 1969. with original aircon, automaic transmission, original automatic antenna and original becker radio.  It had some rusts but drives great and is very reliable. i would take it to long distance trips and I would not have any problems at all.

It is currently undergoiing a total body restoration since may of this year. I should have my baby back in 2 months.

Happy hunting :)

Joelj

1969 280sl auto
White exterior
Blue interior
« Last Edit: July 13, 2006, 07:47:17 by joelj »

peterm

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2006, 07:58:20 »
Don't even bother to discuss price until you do due diligence. Most owners that have invested in their cars will tell you about their receipts that add up to far more than the asking price.  Every car has issues and a properly manitained and good condition car is worth far more than 25k.  Replacing and interior doing a full repaint fixing a fuel system etc etc can be expensive repairs that you'll never recoup.   Pay more for the best example at purchase and you get a better value if the prvious owner has done the work.

jammer

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2006, 02:42:49 »
Thanks for your replies.  I am planning to see both cars within the next couple of weeks.  I will let you know my findings.  Are there any tell tale signs of unhealthy fuel delivery system?

Riadh

rwmastel

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Re: What's it worth?
« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2006, 08:43:09 »
quote:
Originally posted by jammer

Are there any tell tale signs of unhealthy fuel delivery system?

Riadh

Riadh,

With the owner's permission (and possibly at a mechanic's shop):

1.  You can remove the rubber trunk mat then remove the plastic cap in the center of the trunk floor.  This reveals the fuel guage sending unit in the fuel tank.  Unplug the electrical connector and use a small socket driver (5mm?  6mm??) to disconnect the unit from the tank.  Use a flash light to look into the fuel tank.  Note the amount of rust/gunk!  Replace everything.

2.  This one can be really messy!  Remove the main fuel filter canister in the engine bay.  (14mm??)  Fuel will be spilled.  It takes quite a lot of twists & turns to remove the fuel filter canister from the engine bay (oil filter canister is simple).  Examine the filter element and canister for rust/gunk.  Replace everything.

3.  At the fuel tank, pinch off and remove fuel line that returns from the fuel injection pump to the fuel tank.  Put a container under it (1/2 gallon size or more).  Have the seller turn the ignition on (not starting the car) for 15 seconds and see how much fuel comes out.  It should be about 1 liter or more.  This tests the strength of the fuel pump and how clear the lines are from the pump, up to the injection pump, and back to the tank.  Replace everything.

4.  Drive the car.  If the owner allows it, after the operating temp has been at normal for a few minutes you should run the car up to the upper parts of the RPM range.  In an automatic you can leave it in "2" or "3" as needed.  If you can push it to 5,000 RPM or more with no signs of engine problems, that is a good sign.

Oil:  Remove the oil filter canister in the engine bay and look for a rubber seal on the housing mount.  This is not on the canister that comes off, but on the mount that is on the engine block.  There should be a thick seal in the center that looks similar to a 1/2 inch section of garden hose that has been cut and slipped over the center post.  This seal is critical to oil filtration and is missing on many cars.

Always get a compression test and leak down test done.

Happy hunting!!

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

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