Linkage Tour

[merrill]

so, checked my linkages per the tour,  adjusted the inj pump to cross linkage to 233mm.  from there adjusted everything else.

the only problem is on my 230 sl auto, when I put the car in gear the idle selenoid increases the rpms to over  1,000 rpm

the adjuster is all the way in.  should I put everything back ?

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

[J. Huber]

Hi Matt. So close but yet so far! I don't know if this will help but I just measured a few things for comparison:

With the 233MM fuel side, my intake side is @289MM (center ball to ball) and the small center rod is 138MM. (again approx. to my best measuring). My CSS shows 3 full threads showing. My stop screw has 5 full threads showing. Good luck.

PS I tend to have a slightly higher idle than the book -- but my CSS keeps things very close to park numbers. Less than 1000 to be sure.

James
63 230SL

[merrill]

james,
went out and checked the linkages, thought I had the gas pedal mis adjusted.  wrong

finally I lengthened the short linkage till there was a gep between the selenoid and the linkage.

once there was a gap, I started the car and then I was able to adjust the selenoid.

now I wonder if maybe I need to check the pedal set up.

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

[wgl]

Joe,
I was unable to load the last download "Merrills info" can you refresh that?
Thanks for this info.
Bill Lindquist
Portland, OR

[Benz Dr.]

The arm on the air control doesn't need to be fully opened to be adjusted properly. On most cars it will come close to the full stop screw but still not touch. This is OK.  What you want is for injection pump and the air controller to open at the same time from the idle postion. The arm on the injection should hit the full stop in this case.
Due to the way the linkage is set up the air control linkage moves faster in the mid open position than does the injection pump. When the arm on the pump is opened at about 40 degress the air control arm is maybe 50 degrees but they both end up at the same 80 + degrees when fully opened.
In order for the linkage to be able to move freely to the max opened position there should be about 1 mm of gap at the full stop screw so that it doesn't touch.

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org
  1 877 661 6061

[ja17]

Hello Bill,

Now re-loaded, the "label" on the photo was to long.  Try it now.



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[J. Huber]

quote:Originally posted by Benz Dr.

... In order for the linkage to be able to move freely to the max opened position there should be about 1 mm of gap at the full stop screw so that it doesn't touch.

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org
  1 877 661 6061

This is a subtle but important statement the Doc makes. Often times this stop screw gets involved in the linkage and somehow becomes part of the idle adjusting process. This makes sense since if it is pushing/holding the linkage -- any turn of the screw would change the idle... Problem is, besides throwing the linkage off its true course, this has an effect on the transmission (usually leading to harder, clunkier shifting.) As Dan says, they should be separate from each other.

James
63 230SL

[merrill]

joe,
I figured something out, if one stars at the inj pump and starts to "adjust back" to the pedal then the pedal will need to be adjusted.

i tried to adjust per the instructions but the linkage from the block to the cross member was out of what and then of course the pedal needed to be adjusted.  

thoughts on how to update the post so the tour is clearar for the novice?

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

[Peter van Es]

Note that this content will move to the Tech Manual as soon as Joe has provided me with high res photographs. That is the place where we would need to make the definitive article.

Merril, Joe, this Linkage is probably where it will end up.

Have a look at what's there... better yet, start modifying it there!

Peter



1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual.

[jwalk]

Hello JA, I hope I am not out of order by jumping in here but the topic of discussion is similiar to my problems. For my 65 230SL I believe the following are true. (1) vacuum retard distributer & throttle (2) ignition timing 4 BTDC (3 linkage correct with 10 MM hole as a start point and down rod to FIP bring 230 MM long C to C. The throttle is then closed and when the throttle is full open the FIP is also full open.Sounds good so far except the will not start or run .
 
 I use the plugged hole on the rear of the intake manifold as a source for a vacuum gauge and I found that with the vacuum gauge removed and the port open the car starts immediately and with no throttle  or pump opening the RPM jumps to 2200 with an advance 28 degrees. I isolated the intake manifold from the brake vacuum booster but what would you recommend that I do next to get mu idle back? I have learned so much from your directions throughout the forums and would appreciate any help you may offer.

Sincerely jwalk

[jwalk]

quote:Originally posted by jwalk

Hello JA, I hope I am not out of order by jumping in here but the topic of discussion is similiar to my problems. For my 65 230SL I believe the following are true. (1) vacuum retard distributer & throttle (2) ignition timing 4 BTDC (3 linkage correct with 10 MM hole as a start point and down rod to FIP bring 230 MM long C to C. The throttle is then closed and when the throttle is full open the FIP is also full open.Sounds good so far except the will not start or run .
 
 I use the plugged hole on the rear of the intake manifold as a source for a vacuum gauge and I found that with the vacuum gauge removed and the port open the car starts immediately and with no throttle  or pump opening the RPM jumps to 2200 with an advance 28 degrees. I isolated the intake manifold from the brake vacuum booster but what would you recommend that I do next to get mu idle back? I have learned so much from your directions throughout the forums and would appreciate any help you may offer.

Sincerely jwalk

As the associated topics have not yet progressed to the WIFI manual and as I have not yet learned any description of the 9/16 in. hex head adjuster which stops the spool one of two levels which differ by 5 mm. attached are two pictures. What is the purpose of this adjustment?

jwalk

Download Attachment: DSC00358.jpg
118.46 KB

Download Attachment: DSC00359.jpg
91.22 KB

[ja17]

Hello jwalk,

The adjustment on the early WRD injection pumps (230SL) is for testing only. It serves no other purpose. It should be left in the upward postition so the air valve piston can have full travel.

If your car will not start unless you have a open vacuume leak, your injection pump air filter may be plugged and not allow needed air into the engine for cold starts. Check this first. Please describe your problems again for us so we can be of more help.

Keep in touch,

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[glennard]

Re: Linkage adjustment.  As in Casablanca- of all the cars and of all the mechanics----.   It is sacrosanct on this Forum to alter the rod connection on the FI pump control shaft.  Unfortunately, all those garage good wretchs around the world don't abide by this.  Bet a good percentage of Pagodas, 113s, etc have had this tampered with-all in good intention.  Solution??

[66andBlue]

quote:Originally posted by jwalk

...  I use the plugged hole on the rear of the intake manifold as a source for a vacuum gauge ...

Hi Jwalk,
I have been searching for that port hole for a long time and cannot find it on my 230SL.  Where is it?
Could you post a picture, please?

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:Originally posted by 66andBlue

quote:Originally posted by jwalk

...  I use the plugged hole on the rear of the intake manifold as a source for a vacuum gauge ...

Hi Jwalk,
I have been searching for that port hole for a long time and cannot find it on my 230SL.  Where is it?
Could you post a picture, please?

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

Its busy feeding vacuum to the autobox

naj

68 280SL

[jwalk]

Hello Alfred,
 Pardon the delay in responding but have been away. The attached image shows a quick connect attached to an opening which is normally blocked by a cap bolt on my car which has the ZF 5-20 transmission.I believe naj is correct in that your car, being an automatic, uses this port for the transmission.

jwalk

[jwalk]

Hello Joe,

Thanks for the reply. Let me qualify my situation. I have been trying to solve an idle speed that is not > 500 rpm. When it wont run it is difficult to adjust. I am sure the linkage is correct per the book and the WIFI manual. Ignition timing and dwell are very close. this car, engine 012501 has one square relay, one round time switch, one injection pump solenoid and the cold start valve which all appear to be working and in order. I have not included the thermo time switch in the afore mentioned parts because I believe it is faulty. The W terminal is grounded in the switch and I am in the belief that it should be normally open. I have a switch on order. You mentioned the air filter on the FIP, It is new and the port sucks when cold and does not when hot. The fuel control rod to be moved to its extremes and returns to the full load position. My conclusion is that the engine is getting over abundance of fuel because, on one occasion I did start with the 10 MM  hole in the manifold open to atmosphere and the engine starter immediately and ran smoothly at 2300 rpm with throttle and FIP in the idle position.

Thanks for all help
jwalk

[66andBlue]

quote:Originally posted by jwalk

 ... I believe naj is correct in that your car, being an automatic, uses this port for the transmission.

Thanks Jwalk.
And I thought naj [.. feeding vacuum ..] referred to a new dieting fad   .
So Naj, where is the best place to tie in a vacuum gauge (with a T-connector), distributor line or brake booster line?

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:Originally posted by 66andBlue

quote:Originally posted by jwalk

 ... I believe naj is correct in that your car, being an automatic, uses this port for the transmission.

Thanks Jwalk.
And I thought naj [.. feeding vacuum ..] referred to a new dieting fad   .
So Naj, where is the best place to tie in a vacuum gauge (with a T-connector), distributor line or brake booster line?

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

The distributor line, using the rubber pipe that goes into the throttle body.

naj

68 280SL

[jwalk]

quote:Originally posted by RCS Coupe

Installing the 233 mm rod and setting up the venturi to be completely closed will dictate the length of the rod going from the venturi to the cross over rod. Also use the alignment bore in the linkage support if your car has it. The linkage rod going to the block pivot should be set so the venturi is all the way open when the accelerator is at the floor while still allowing the venturi to completely closed when the pedal is up.

Joe Alexander

Sorry, but I need to beat this out one more time. I am installing all new (or replated) link rods, balls, sockets, and pivots from the pedal to the venturi and FI pump. Mine is an M129 (250SL) engine, non-US spec, manual transmission, R11 FI pump.
With a pile of shiny metal bits in front of me, some rods right threaded, others left-threaded, I have to start somewhere to get it all back together and working.

For the link rod between the FI pump and the crossover shaft: is the length dictated by the cross shaft being on the alignment bore in the shaft support and the FI pump lever on the stop, or does the link need to be 233 mm long?

With my FI pump lever on the stop and the cross shaft aligned through the support hole, the link rod measures 230 mm center-to-center (socket balls). Lengthing the rod to 233 mm will open the FI pump off the stop with the throttle valve shut. Any thoughts on this?

Ray
(268)Green 250 Coupe

Ray You are not the only one confused about the proper linkage setup. I am also fighting to obtain the optimum setup. My 65 230 SL, like yours is set with, as a starting point, the cross shaft located by the hole in the intake manifold. this does result in the down shaft to the FIP being 230 mm. All should be well as the throttle shaft length is fixed by the closed throttle and the cross shaft locked in the setup mode. My reference source is BBB August 59/loose leaf edition with job No 00-16 Model 230 SL added. These instructions give no dimensions for link lengths but give detail detail numbers for the relationship between the throttle valve and the FIP in degrees throughout the 82 degrees of travel. What has me concerned is if the 233 mm number is good and use of the lineup hole in the intake manifold is also good, then on my car the FIP is not on the idle stop but open due to 3 mm of movement of the FIP arm. I know that my FIP arm has not been altered. If the 233 mm number surfaces from a later model, are we assuming that it applies to the 230 SL also? My BBB does say to use the line-up hole in the intake manifold.

jwalk

[jwalk]

quote:Originally posted by ja17

Hello jwalk,

The adjustment on the early WRD injection pumps (230SL) is for testing only. It serves no other purpose. It should be left in the upward postition so the air valve piston can have full travel.

If your car will not start unless you have a open vacuume leak, your injection pump air filter may be plugged and not allow needed air into the engine for cold starts. Check this first. Please describe your problems again for us so we can be of more help.

Keep in touch,

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

Hello Joe!

Thank you for the input on th e WRD test feature and the air filter. I believe that I previously had Miss adjusted the FIP so rich, in an attempt increase the idle, that it would not run. Only when I inadvertently left my vacuum port open did it start, but while idling > 2000 rpm. I have since corrected the fuel and air to achieve a 800 rpm idle. All is not yet right as it bucks severely under moderate acceleration. Am I rich or lean? Another concern is, although the WRD does move the spool valve from supplemental air to to no air, what effect does this device have on fuel supply. My BBB, which may be referring to to the 220seb gives a dimension of 6 mm for the extension of the working pin on the WRD thermostat. Is this correct for the 230 SL? Mine is much less.

Thanks again , jwalk

[wwheeler]

I am on the cusp of completely rebuilding my linkage set up on my '68 M130. I have memorized this tour and have looked over everything I can find on this topic but still have one question.

When everything is adjusted according to spec, will the injection pump lever be completely open when the pedal is on the floor and the venturi hits it's stop? Or does the 233mm rod adjustment take care of that?

[ja17]

Hello Wallace,

As long as the factory-set stop on the injection pump has not been tampered with, then the adjustment of the linkage rod to 233 mm  should restore the correct geometry to the linkages. Consider that the lever on the injection pump is on its factory-set stop, the lever on the venturi is adjusted so as "just not to bind" and the injection pump rod is adjusted to the prescribed 233mm. The linkage rod from the venturi to the cross-over rod must conform to what is left. (It must be in the collapsed position if is is the later US style "slip linkage"). Any vacuume dashpot must be temporarily moved so as not to influence the set-up. Finnally the linkage rod from the engine block must allow the linkage and venturi to open all the way when the pedal is to the metal! There is an adjustment on the accelerator pedal height at the firewall (engine compartment) if needed.

[paults1]

I was having trouble getting an good 233mm reading with a tape measure for the distance between the IP pump & the cross over rod.  I found a web site that you can print a "printable paper ruler" that is very accurate. Simply lay the rod on the paper ruler & adjust the sockets to the 233mm length. The site is www.vendian.org.

Regards, Paul '63 230SL

[wwheeler]

I finally got the entire linkage rebuilt and adjusted on my M130. Wow! What a difference the bushings and sockets can make. The venturi housing was also rebuilt and finally adjusted correctly. I am lucky to have the bracket with the alignment pin hole. Eventhough I did double check the 233mm dimension, the alignment hole made it a lot easier. Everything is now adjusted to spec.

Thanks Joe for all of your work on the linkage tour. I am not sure I would have had the confidence to tackle the job with out it!