Homemade wind deflector details

[George Davis]

This post provides details on a homemade wind deflector (wind blocker) for anyone interested.  The blocker is shown in the first photo:

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The screen section measures 35-1/2 inches wide x 5-1/2 inches high x 1/4 inch thick.  Material is polycarbonate, but plexiglas can also be used.  Poly is tougher than plexi, but will yellow over time.  Use a carbide-tipped circular or table saw to cut it, and WEAR EYE PROTECTION.

The base section is made of 3/8 inch thick plywood, with an MDF face on one side.  The MDF face isn't necessary, it's just what I had laying around.  The base tapers slightly to fit the space, and measures 38-3/8 inches wide at the front; it tapers to 37-5/8 inches at a depth of 7-1/2 inches from the front.  Total depth is 8-1/2 inches.  The rear corners are rounded to fit the space.

Hinges are indeed Euro cabinet hinges (good spotting, Trice!).  The hinges are installed 6 inches in from the front corners and close to the front edge.  I used a Forstner bit to make the holes for the hinges, but I'm sure a hole saw would be fine.  I can't remember the size now, sorry.  Hinge detail photos follow:

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If one did not want the folding feature, simple L-brackets would probably work fine.  In this case, a wider and higher screen could be used (although in my opinion that isn't necessary).

The unit mounts in the car using four hooks that simply hook over the lip of the soft-top case.  The case lid extends out a bit from the lip leaving a small gap that is large enough to clear the hooks.  The hooks are made of 3/4 inch wide by 1/8 inch thick aluminum stock from a hardware store, and bent using a vice and piece of wood to form the u-bends.  After bending, the hooks were dipped in plastic tool-handle coating stuff to protect the contact points.  The hooks are the only part of the unit that touch the car, and they work fine.  No holes, no velcro, nothin' else needed.  The unit is installed by raising the soft-top case lid, setting the unit in place, and closing the lid.

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Note that the mounting hooks are slotted, I did this with a milling machine to make adjustment easier.  Slots aren't absolutely necessary if you trial fit things carefully.  If you really want slots, I might can help you out for a small fee !

The base is covered with black vinyl material from a local fabric store.  The vinyl is installed after all holes are drilled and all trial fitting is done.  Remove all hardware, install and staple the vinyl in place, then reinstall all hardware.

Fasteners are all stainless steel.  For the mounting hooks, I used #10 pan-head machine screws with nyloc nuts.  For the hinge-to-screen connection, #8 pan-head machine screws with nyloc nuts.  For the hinge-to-base connections, #8 (I think) flat-head machine screws with nyloc nuts.  Because the pan-head screws have wide heads, washers are not needed under them; however, on the bottom of the base I used #8 and #10 fender washers below the nyloc nuts.

I hope this is helpful.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[n/a]

George,

Thank you for the good write-up.  I am going to try to copy your design. Hopeful it will be ready for our Northern Calif. Get Together.

Louis

[George Davis]

Louis,

you're welcome, hope it turns out good.  Let me know if you need anything more, and yes, hope to meet you at the NorCal gathering!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[TheEngineer]

Congrats George Davis! You did a perfect job! I have been researching the problem and came up with a cardboard mock-up which works fine. Starbuck napkins stay in place in the wood tray between the seats at 75 MPH. If you don't mind I'll copy some of your features.

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[George Davis]

Theengineer,

thanks, and no problem copying features.  Great minds...

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[TheEngineer]

To George Davis:
How is your wind deflector at high speeds? Does is rattle, shake or buffet? Do paper napkins stay on the wood tray between the seats without anything to weigh them down? If we do this right, we'll come up with a design for everyone that really works, is simple, good looking and inexpensive. My cardboard angles forward & rests against both headrests at high speeds. It's 10 inches tall.

'69 280SL,Signal Red,007537,tired engineer, West-Seattle, WA

[mille]

Hi George,

What a neat and clever design! I'm seriously considering to construct one myself. But is the deflector high enough to do the job?

Best

/Finn
1964 230 Sl Euro 4-speed man
1988 230 E

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by theengineer

My cardboard angles forward & rests against both headrests at high speeds. It's 10 inches tall.

Do you have a way to keep it in place if you have no head rests (230SL)?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[TheEngineer]

To RWMASTEL:
I found that there is considerable wind pressure to push the vertical part forward at speeds over about 45MPH. My design has a 2 inch lip which reduces the airflow over the edge, similar to the vertical fin on the tip of an aircraft wing, but that increases the forward pressure. The original MB windschott (p/n 113 860 00 74)has a nylon mesh which reduces the wind load, but also lets some draft thru. It is locked into the vertical position by hinges with stops built-in. May I suggest that you experiment: Use some corrugated cardboard obtained from big heavy duty boxes. Cut the bottom part to fit inside the rear space contour. Tape it in place, using duct tape, over the black metal rim underneath the soft top cover. 4 places is adequate, the cover will hold it down. Cut the vertical part 47 inches wide; It will fit into the slot forward of the soft top cover. Tape or glue a 1x2 to the top of the vertical part to give that edge strength. The bottom edge is strengthend by duct tape to the horizontal surface. The duct tape  also forms a hinge there, so that you can lay the vertical part down.
Experiment with tie straps made from duct tape from the rear of the horizontal piece to the top of the vertical part. That should hold it without the need for resting against headrests, but I haven't tried it.

[George Davis]

Some answers re the homemade wind deflector:

Is the deflector high enough to do the job?  Depends on how you define the job, but it is high enough for me.  I can flip it up or down while driving, and when flipping it up, it makes a *noticable* difference.  But not all wind is eliminated, there is still a bit of a breeze, which I like because I want to feel some wind.  A baseball cap will stay on with the screen up, whereas it will not stay on with the deflector flipped down.  Put it this way: I'd drive 300 miles top down with this deflector in use, but I'd be reluctant to make the same drive without it.

Does it shake and rattle?  Yes, a little, but not enough to annoy me, and I am easily annoyed by noises (and most everything else, now that I think about it...).  I expect shaking and noise would be worse if the screen were higher.  A third hinge at center would probably eliminate the shaking and noise.

Will paper napkins stay in the console box?  Dunno for sure, but I'd guess they would not stay in place without being weighted.  It's not real windy in there, but it doesn't take much wind to blow a paper nappie about.  I seem to recall my wife reading magazines without any trouble as we cruised at 60 mph or so.

Not asked, but I use this thing with the side windows rolled up.  I don't think it will do much if they are down, so I don't even try it.



George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[TheEngineer]

Here is the final design of my wind deflector. It is made from .12 black ABS sheet. There is no modification or drilling to the body: It stays in place because of the tight fit and the spring of the material. I have used it now for about 100 miles at speeds up to 75MPH. It is high enough to keep all wind out of the cockpit. I put Starbuck paper napkins on the seat besides me and another one on the wood tray. They stay there unweighted at 75. No rattles, no vibrations. The deflector can remain installed with the top up or down: I haven't removed it for 3 weeks. With it in the up position, I can still see over it using the rear view mirror. When the top is up, or when I drive real slow, I lay it down. It stays up by itself because of the wind pressure. I don't know if it's better than the MB original; I'd like to make the napkin test.

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'69 280SL,Signal Red,007537,tired engineer, West-Seattle, WA

[George Davis]

Theengineer,

my compliments, Sir!  Simple and effective, can't ask for more.

But I do feel that a gauntlet has been flung down, to wit: the 75 mph Starbucks nappie test.  I must endeavor to conduct said test soonest.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[tdun824259]

theengineer,

Where are your anchor points for your design?  It appears to just rest against the headrests in the up position, is that accurate?  I can't quite tell where or how you've attached the ABS to the car or soft top lid.  Your picture also shows a small air foil.  This must benefit your design?
Thanks for your time in designing such an practical application.
tdun824259
1971 280 SL

[TheEngineer]

The horizontal sheet has a two inch lip turned up 90° at the forward side. The outer end of that lip rests in the gap between the soft top cover and the chrome cap. The horizontal sheet is fitted into the contour of the soft top case. That case is padded with carpet and has a metal rim on top. The horizontal sheet rests just below that metal rim. It is pushed into the carpet and is prevented from coming up by the metal rim. It is not attached to the aluminum soft top cover. To raise the soft top cover, I flip the hinged portion up. The "air foil" is a two inch lip. Functionally it extends the vertical sheet by reducing air flow over the edge. Same as the vertical fin seen on many airplanes. (I did some work on 747). Yes, it rests against the head rests. And George: NO gauntlet, just a request for more testing data. I talked to one fellow, he has the original MB wind deflector, but the car is in the shop and it'll be summer before he can test. There are lot's of them on eBay for sale, for the W107 and it makes me think they must be somewhat useless. This one here was cheap, I had fun and it looks good.

[tdun824259]

theengineer,

Love the design.  Would you mind sharing a close up picture or two of the hinge mechanism.  And, in my non-engineering mind it seems the vertical member leaning against the headrests would simply blow down against the horizontal member without a locking hinge of sorts. (Especially with windows down) Please enlighten me. Thanks again.

tdun824259
1971 280 SL

[Ben]

Guys I love the ideas.........any suggestions on what type of shop to get the materials, specifically the plastic or aluminium sheets !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

[Bearcat]

i bought a wind deflector off e bay.....which bolts into the seat belt brackets...no thanks. i have been offered what is pictured made up at 350 euro whatever that is in green backs.

[TheEngineer]

To tdun824259:
Attached please find a photograph of the hinge portion as requested. It also shows how the horizontal sheet is cut away to fit the car and the tab remaining to support it. As I sugested earlier, it might be best if you make a cardboard mock-up first.  

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[tdun824259]

theengineer,

Thanks so much for the picture.  I think your design is top drawer.  I'd like to play with it alittle and see what I can come up with.  You are absolutely correct about using a cardboard demo first.  I still can't quite see your hinge.  Is it a piano type?
Thanks again
tdun824259
1971 280 SL

[TheEngineer]

To tdun824259:
Sure you can see the hinge: Remember these puzzles where something is hidden in a picture in plain sight: The hinge is this strip of black duct tape you see at the top of the picture. Duct tape on both sides of the two leaves.

[enochbell]

George, that is nothing less than impressive, clean and nicely engineered and fitting the marque.  I take a much lower tech approach, and I don't know if it would ever pass the Starbucks test...

greg

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'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[mdsalemi]

quote:Originally posted by enochbell

George, that is nothing less than impressive, clean and nicely engineered and fitting the marque.  I take a much lower tech approach, and I don't know if it would ever pass the Starbucks test...

greg

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'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

There's no way that canine wind deflector works!  As soon as you hit 15 MPH the snouts go to each side of the car facing forward, thus rendering the wind break behind the seats relatively useless!

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[George Davis]

Thanks, Greg!  Your windblockers might be a bit less effective, but they look much easier to install, are very portable, and probably get you a lot of grins from bystanders.  Nice solution!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[AGT]

George

This magnificent engineering is currently featuring on SL107.com. Clearly AS-71 (has he spelled that right) has never seen his manufacturer's mesh screen sailing off like a kite in the rear view mirror. It's 113 envy George. Plain and simple

Regards
Andrew

PS re built air con almost ready for final installation. My mechanic is in therapy but I think that he has done it. Thank you for your guidance and encouragement at the end of last year.

[Chad]

I like the K9 wind deflector the best.  The wind feels great to me.