Author Topic: Engine repair  (Read 31872 times)

tel76

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #50 on: January 20, 2014, 20:32:38 »
If they were meant to be removed then why go to the trouble of drilling a larger hole and counter sinking it to accept the insert ??
Eric

66andBlue

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #51 on: January 20, 2014, 21:03:51 »
Eric,
do you mean the threaded inserts into the holes or the metal strips in the slots?
At the moment we are discussing the strips in the slots not the threaded inserts.
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

tel76

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #52 on: January 20, 2014, 21:16:44 »
Yes, I am also discussing the metal inserts as per my picture on reply # 7 ( you kindly posted it for me).
Have a look at reply # 44 from Gerd he uses the word filler I use the word insert.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2014, 21:23:44 by tel76 »
Eric

66andBlue

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #53 on: January 20, 2014, 22:20:50 »
Then my answer to your question "If they were meant to be removed then why go to the trouble of drilling ...." is simply what MB states in addendum:
"Deeper and thus wider cooling slots were provided in the cylinder crankcase of type 280 SL/8. Thus more favorable temperatures are obtained in the combustion chamber region."
Does not sound like they were drilled deeper to accept fillers/inserts/strips what ever we may call them, especially when the filler makes the passage narrower again.
Anyway lets find an original late untouched M130 engine and open it up.  ;)
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

Benz Dr.

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #54 on: January 20, 2014, 22:26:09 »
Interesting discussion. I've never seen these inserts but I am aware that the late engines are quite a bit different than the earlier 280SE version. There are things that I've never seen and I'm sure I've seen things that no one else has - big deal 8). I'm supposed to see things, if they're there to see. ;)

As for pulling an engine in 6 hours? I did it once in about 7 hours all by myself, which I think is pretty good as it was an auto trans car. This engine was clean and not rusty. I had to work my ass off to do it in that amount of time, BTW.
 I remove the manifolds and injection lines before pulling the engine. Sometimes this stuff won't come apart and the exhaust pipes are rusted into the exhaust manifolds. So yeah, six hours with some help to lift the engine out sounds about right if everything comes apart OK. A day and half if it's the dog's breakfast isn't beyond acceptable either. Or, I could twist off bolts and damage stuff along the way and let the machine shop take care of it, or you, for a price.



 
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

stickandrudderman

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #55 on: January 20, 2014, 23:37:21 »
Many years ago I quoted somebody £350 to remove & refit their 500SEL M117 engine, repair No.8 plug thread.
He dropped the car off at 9AM and at 4PM I rang him to say the car's ready.
He came to collect but refused to pay the £350.00 "because I only dropped it off at 9 this morning, I'm not paying you £350.00 for a day's work".
I haven't made that mistake since..........

ja17

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #56 on: January 20, 2014, 23:58:00 »
Good strategy Alfred, now finding someone with a very late engine that is ready to be opened up!
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

hkollan

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #57 on: January 21, 2014, 08:25:40 »
Good strategy Alfred, now finding someone with a very late engine that is ready to be opened up!

Joe, as you've suggested earlier, I think the only way to know  the facts about these inserts is to get this documented from Mercedes.
Opening one engine even if original latest version m130 would not really prove much.
A reason for the inserts could be, if a late factory exchange engine block with the wider water jackets were bored to oversize thus
further thinning the cylinderwalls, they deemed it necessary to reinforce the waterchannels with the metalstrips.
That could explain why the inserts would not be found  in every late engine block.

Hans
Hans K, Cuenca, Spain
1968 280 SL 387 Blue met., parchment leather
1971 280 SL 462 Beige met, Brown leather
1968 280 SL 180 Silver, Red leather
1964 300 SE Lang 040 Black w/Red leather
1985 500 SL 735 Astral Silver w/Black leather
1987 560 SEC 199 Black met., Black leather

ja17

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #58 on: January 21, 2014, 14:27:02 »
Hello Hans,
Yes, I agree, some documentation would be best. However, I did see these strips with my own eyes, in a standard bore block, as delivered from Mercedes back in 1974. I took the block out of the factory crate myself. After removing the strips I assembled and installed the engine  :o  and with no consequence.

The fact that replacement strips do not seem to have ever been available, from Mercedes, as a replacement part in case of loss or damage is also a mystery.  

In addition, without documentation, there is no way to tell for sure that the metal inserts were used in all the latest engines?  Possibly the production run of the late  engines originated without them, then they were added later in the production of the later blocks, when problems arose?

mystery continues~
« Last Edit: January 21, 2014, 14:34:11 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Wayne

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #59 on: January 21, 2014, 16:07:30 »
If you stated your price at the outset how can someone challenge your fee, certainly not what I would do.

I wonder how many garages keep time sheets of exactly what work has been carried out , this us what I do in my business, it's simple, the time spent plus cost of ancillaries....no argument,all profit built I to the hourly rate. If not a fixed fee agreed at outset.

Sadly that doesn't seem the case from what I've seen so far..

Anyway I've come to agreement with crewe and hopefully my car us on its way to storage right now.

My experience so far doesn't fill me with confidence, I can however see why so many do their own work and learn how to do things without relying  on professionals

Benz Dr.

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #60 on: January 21, 2014, 17:57:11 »
If you stated your price at the outset how can someone challenge your fee, certainly not what I would do.

I wonder how many garages keep time sheets of exactly what work has been carried out , this us what I do in my business, it's simple, the time spent plus cost of ancillaries....no argument,all profit built I to the hourly rate. If not a fixed fee agreed at outset.

Sadly that doesn't seem the case from what I've seen so far..

Anyway I've come to agreement with crewe and hopefully my car us on its way to storage right now.

My experience so far doesn't fill me with confidence, I can however see why so many do their own work and learn how to do things without relying  on professionals


I have a flat rate on some jobs but most of it is time and material. We have a time clock for daily hours plus log books for each car we work on. It's amazing to me how many hours you can spend on a full restoration.

Some owners can do a lot on their own. If you have never rebuilt an engine before and have limited mechanical skills or equipment, it's best left to someone who knows. I used to assemble all of my cylinder heads in house, and I still could, but I now have my machine shop do it as a package. My time is better spent on other things.

Anyone who can do a whole car without relying on outside help probably wouldn't even bother to post here.  :)

« Last Edit: March 05, 2015, 17:23:15 by Benz Dr. »
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Wayne

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #61 on: February 05, 2014, 19:08:05 »
So as yet no definitive answer for the inserts ?

Anyway I'm going for recon engine and auto transmission, bored of all the hassle , has anyone dealt with the following firm

http://mobil.german-spob.de/?&nr=2d558ec5b7f3a3922d610a7315162f69

Any positive feedback

I just want something to drop in no hassle

ja17

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #62 on: February 06, 2014, 01:08:07 »
Hello Wayne,

Are you referring to the thread inserts or the metal strips. The thread inserts on the latest version M130 are factory correct. So far we do not have any actual documentation or proof about the metal strips.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Wayne

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #63 on: February 06, 2014, 19:49:52 »
Sorry ....I was referring to the metal inserts to see if anyone had the final answer

W

Wayne

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #64 on: February 07, 2014, 19:45:35 »
I've had this from someone who has possession of my original engine,he is a machine shop and again has not seen this block with the inserts. HIs email below mentions the inserts and the fitting of liners but he's not quite sure if it will work due to slots in the block

His email,
Hi Wayne, the bore size is 87mm, this should also relate to the piston.
Having had a breif look at the drawing and measured the depth of the "slot" (32mm) i am a bit concerned that the liner won't have any support at the slot which could allow the liner to move at this point causing a failure.

Whilst we would theoretically be replacing material removed, thinwall liners aren't as strong as the block material when not supported,
 I have made further enquiries and will let you as and when

Does anyone have any thoughts

Thanks

W

tel76

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #65 on: February 08, 2014, 10:59:29 »
87mm is second o/s, you could go to 87.5mm, this will depend on the amount of wear in the cylinders.
Eric

Bill Sgro

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #66 on: January 29, 2015, 03:41:04 »
Did we ever get a definitive answer on the strips in the slits between the cylinders in the block?

1970 280SL
1970 300SEL 3.5

ja17

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #67 on: January 29, 2015, 07:44:36 »
No factual documentation as of this time.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

stickandrudderman

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Re: Engine repair
« Reply #68 on: January 29, 2015, 11:37:30 »
And Wayne spat the dummy and left....................  ::)