Restoration Difficulty Level

[Shvegel]

Andy,
Turns out I have one and a half CSV's.   One is labled EP/EV 2/4 and the other is EP/EV 2/2. Both are large bolt circle valves.  I assume yours is the EP/EV 2/4. The one I have is missing the pintle but the solenoid is there and it carries the same part number as yours.  Message me your address and I will express mail it as a freebee if you are interested.  

Pat

[andyburns]

In a last ditch attempt to get my car going this morning I took my freshly restored 230 csv and swapped it lock stock and barrel for another old used grungy old unit off another engine.    I am so close to turning the key that its not funny.  Spent yesterday fitting up the throttle linkages and other various bit and pieces

Anyway got home and gave the new csv a clean with some degreaser then tested the electrical side of things.  Again the solenoid pin action was fine.  But this time I have learnt from my mistakes last week and immediately fitted the new old solenoid up to my car to give it a quick pressure test. 

Exactly the same problem!!!  Fuel hosing from the top of the solenoid.  Not a good look.  They can't like sitting around for long periods.  Also guess they are all probably 40 years old now so are already a bit tired.

I am wondering if these aging solenoid pose quite a significant fire risk.  Obviously mixing fuel and electricity is not a good idea.  Recently I have seen quite a few old 190's and 113's for sale all obviously burnt out with fires starting in the engine bay.  Am interested in other people opinion on this one.

[mbzse]

.../..fitted the new old solenoid up to my car to give it a quick pressure test. Exactly the same problem!!!  Fuel hosing from the top of the solenoid

Yes, it is wise to remove the small solenoid, clean the area and exchange the small O-ring around the pin (plunger). You may also have to grind (lap) in the little conical valve to seal against its seat. See [borrowed] picture attached

../..I am wondering if these aging solenoid pose quite a significant fire risk

You bet they do! The fuel oozing out is not too far away from the (hot) exhaust manifold as well. Well worth checking this CSV device on any old Fuel Injected M-B
/Hans in Sweden
.

[andyburns]

Hey Hans,  I have made my mind up not to go anywhere near another second hand solenoid as a result of my learning. 

I ended up cutting the old solenoid in half to see what was causing the issue.  Its definitely not the seal/o ring between the solenoid and the CSV body.  This prevent leaking between these two components.  My issue was definitely a seal inside the solenoid itself.  Non serviceable item so if this seal perishes you will be throwing the unit away.

[andyburns]

Oil Viscosity

After weeks of deliberation and reading every single shred of data on this site I have finally decided on the oil and viscosity to run in my engine.  All my 1960's Mercedes manual say to run 15w 40.  I had made my mind up weeks ago to run Castrol GTX but it isn't available in New Zealand (that I can find) in this viscosity.  Its driven me absolutely crazy.

This morning I stumbled upon a recent Mercedes pamphlet promoting their own blends of oil (no doubt hideously priced) for putting in their own classic cars.  An endorsement as such from the manufacturer.

Interestingly enough they are now recommending and producing 20W-50 as a recommended viscosity range for a number of their own cars including all W113's. 

Castrol GTX is more commonly available in this exact viscosity so from my perspective case closed!

I have stared at this blend on the shelf at least a dozen times over the past month wondering if the slight difference in viscosity would make a jot of a difference.  Its amazing how obsessed you can get over details that don't matter that much!

[WRe]

Hi Andy,
when I started my Pagoda time 5 years ago MB's recommendation was 15W40, there was no extra MB classic oil on the market. Today it's 20W50, curious, honi soit qui mal y pense.
When our cars were build there was no 15W40, only 10W30/40/50 and 20W40/50 besides the single viscosity motor oils.
My opinion: There is not much difference between 15W40 and 20W50, except you are living with extreme temperatures.
...WRe

[Dave H]

Hi Andy.
The solonoid leak...daft question, at any point did you give it the beans and put the full 1700psi against it without removing / capping off the solenoid ?
It worries me that 2 of these have leaked . It makes me want to check mine now... couldnt be in a worse position right above the exhaust manifold.

[andyburns]

Hi Dave,  no the two replacement second hand solenoids were taken off the csv and replaced with the plate I made.   Both of them were stuffed before I started with them.  They had both probably been sitting for years though.  I would still check yours.  Run a temporary wire directly from you battery, turn your key on so the fuel delivery pump is going and then activate the solenoid with the temporary wire.  If you see any fuel leaking or bubbling through the cap of the solenoid you have a problem.  Make sure you leave the solenoid activated for at least a good ten seconds.  During normal operation its probably only active for a few seconds at a time so stress testing it for 10 should show up any issues quick pronto.

The photo you re posted of mine is the csv back in the car and pressurized with fuel at around 8psi.  That isn't a photo of the csv hooked up to the waterblaster!

Today was a very frustrating day.  It took me all day to finish the wiring on the alternator, ignition, spark plug leads, thermal switch and the injection pump solenoid.  Very fiddly time consuming stuff to get right.  The spark plug leads took an eternity.  Metered out every one of the leads, caps and elbows to make sure everything is good.   

Then I lost a small brass special screw from the thermal switch.  Dropped it into the engine bay while trying to wire it up.  Spent the next two hours trying to find it.  Gave up an improvised with another small bolt.  Will probably turn up the day I drive the car out of the garage. 

Getting very close.

[Tomnistuff]

My CSV has been disconnected and the line plugged since before 1987 when I bought my car.  It always started, because I kept it in a heated garage in the winter and drove it only in the spring, summer and fall.  When Robert Fairchild, in California, rebuilt the injection pump and checked the injectors and CSV during this ongoing restoration, the CSV leaked and had to be replaced at extra cost.  With one that worked, I do not doubt, but for how long?  Since I haven't yet reinstalled the engine, I think I'll just keep the CSV disconnected and the line plugged to avoid the risk.

I'm learning so much from this site and particularly, this thread.  Thanks!

Tom Kizer

[andyburns]

Hi Tom,  I am surprised that your car even starts with the csv disconnected.  Perhaps it isn't that necessary in warm countries.  I am certainly stunned that mine used to start so well when the csv was almost completely blocked.  I certainly dont want to put you off putting your csv back in place.  The test for the leaking solenoid is quick, easy and definitive.  If your internal valve is leaking then its a different matter.  The leak would presumably mean that your car would continually run rich.  This problem is easily resolved as well by cleaning the filter (230sl only) and lapping in the valve stem which is only a ten minute job.

In the past two days I have concentrated on getting my exhaust back in the car.  Quite a big deal with my bad back so I have taken things very quietly. 

I consider myself fortunate to have a car with a very good stainless system installed.  It scrubbed up almost like brand new and I even was able to make out a manufacture date of 1987 on a sticker on the muffler.  I think if it were a mild steel unit I would be dealing with a pile of rust.  I know its not original but the fit and quality is so beautiful I will forgive it.  I am also very very thankful I have not got another costly replacement exercise on my hands.

Also spent part of the day finishing off the back end.   Tightened the huge 36mm nut that hold the trailing arms on.  Used a very long extension on my tommy bar.  They are not coming off in a hurry. 

Then went on to setup the lateral positioning of the axle relative to the body.  That took quite a while to get mm perfect. 

I also want to say a huge thanks to Pat, Naj and Dave who have all very generously sent me bits and pieces to keep me going.  Its been really huge as I have been struggling with lack of income after the accident.  Really appreciate it guys!!!  Wish we all lived a bit closer so I could share a few cheeky beers with you all

[andyburns]

A few weeks back DaveB from Aussie kindly gave me a original tool roll after I discovered the one I have wasn't from a 113.  A really lovely gift thanks Dave 

Today I decided to give it a birthday and see if I could get it back to a really clean original state.  It made from light gray MB tex which unfortunately shows up all stains and imperfections.  I cleaned it with every chemical know to man trying to eliminate a few old rust stains but just couldn't move them.  It was a really hard decision but in the end I finally made up my mind to paint it a dark charcoal gray.

I am really happy with the result.   I did however discover that some of the tools that came with my other tool roll are too long and wont fit properly so will  have to start searching for the right ones on ebay.

Can someone also tell me the best way to lock up the engine so I can tighten the big bold on the front of the crank.  It needs to be tightened to about 200 newton meters so quite a bit of force on whatever I use to jam the engine.  I am a bit nervous about it.  Last thing I need is shattered engine parts.

[Jonny B]

Andy,

The tools are actually pretty easy to source individually. Authentic Classics here in the States has the original style long (300) slip joint pliers, with the MB star. I think the have the proper wheel mounting stud too. The spark plug wrench should be shorter, as you note. These tools were common across the lines, so don't fall for "original 113 tool" there are a lot of threads on the site and in the Wiki about the tools and sizes.

Very nice job on the tool kit wrap!

[KevinC]

Isn't the lug wrench supposed to fit into a slot/pocket in the spare tire cover?

[mmizesko]

Kevin,

The tool kit cover has 2 slots for the 17mm lug wrench, but my 1970 280SL has a holder next to the jack holder under the tire where I clip mine into.

Hope you have a great holiday!

Mike

[KevinC]

Interesting. I had read the statement below in the Tech Manual and assumed that the slots were used for placement in early cars...

Early 230SL tool kits (like those of the sedans) were mounted with slots in the bag to the back section of the trunk below the trunk lid opening.



I had also assumed that since the pockets in the spare tire cover seemed to fit the lug wrench and alignment tool so well that this was where they resided:

[andyburns]

I would appreciate some tool rool mounting photos.  I cant see any hooks to hang the roll on under the boot catch.  Also can somone help me out with advice on how yo lock the engine up so i can tighten the front crank bolt.

[mmizesko]

Kevin,

I'll have to check my cover.  I don't remember seeing those pockets, but I could be wrong.  But I do have two clips next to my jack where the lug wrench was mounted when I bought the car.   

Mike

[KevinC]

I feel like I just keep hijacking Andy's thread and he's just trying to find out how to "lock up" the engine so he can tighten the front crank bolt. I do hope that someone can assist with this.

On the lug wrench, after some searching, I did find this in the Tech Manual...

The "centering tool" you were mentioning has a special place for storage in the trunk - it slips into a little hole on the backside of that flap in the spare tire compartment. It's right next to a space for the lug wrench (makes sense the two would be side-by-side).

[Jonny B]

I keep the lug wrench in the pocket provided in the spare tire cover. There is a space also for the wheel mounting tool, but I keep that in the tool roll. I don't think there is supposed to be a spot for the lug wrench by the jack (under the tire). Is that where the handle for the jack should snap into?? Oh, or is it where the pin that inserts into the jack holes mounts?

[rutger kohler]

Hi Andy, it has taken me a while to find this photo to show how I torqued the crankshaft nut up on my 280SL. Probably have the bits kicking around if you want to use.

cheers

Rutger

[andyburns]

Hey Roger.  Pure brilliance!  My early 230 has a slightly different balancer by the looks.  Its a rubber and aluminium sandwich.  Yours appears  solidsteel and much more robust.  I also only have one suitable hole through the balancer and it doesnt have a thread.  I would like to know its purpose.  Will hit the bbb tonight and see if it mentions the tightening procedure.  Again thanks so much for your valuable  input. 

[tel76]

Andy,
The correct MB tool  for holding the crankshaft utilises the starter mounting point, the tool consists of several teeth machined into a piece of steel these teeth match the teeth on the flywheel, also mounted on the piece of steel are two pegs, these pegs are spaced so they go into the starter bolt holes.
In operation you push the unit into the starter mounting hole the two pegs go into the bolt holes and the machined teeth are pushed into the starter ring gear.
I am away at the moment but on my return I could send you a picture as I feel sure Roger would soon fabricate one.
 

[rutger kohler]

That's just what you thought Andy. I can't match the tooth profile but we might be able to make someting out of an old W108 starter pinion wheel welded to a piece of steel fabricated to match the starter bolt holes in the flywheel casing?

cheers
Rodger

[tel76]

The problem with using the pinion is you will be putting a large load onto one/two teeth on the ring gear and you could do some damage, with the MB tool the load is spread over several teeth

[WRe]

Hi,
a crankshaft tool like this?
 http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1715068-diy-harmonic-balancer-guide.html
...WRe