My First Mercedes 230SL Restoration.. Exciting!

[fhernand]

A great looking car. It's my pick of the most sexiest sports car of it's era. My specialty car to restore is early Porsches. But because I have always and a soft spot for this car I was moved to take on the restoration. I plan to pull all the windows, doors, hood, top and truck lid off the car for a complete windows out bare metal/aluminum paint restoration. The color will stay original and be sprayed with a two state Glasurit finish system. Because I want this car to be a show room finish, I will be buffing, and making sure that all gaps meet the 3-4 mm tolerance for these cars. Any details you may have about the car, please do share. I will have all the chrome triple chrome plated. Interior will be done in it's original German Vinyl. Look forward to sharing the process with you..Cheers!

[KevinC]

Best of luck with the project...what is the actual color?

[fhernand]

Kevin, the plate color code is 670H which corresponds to Light Ivory.  My client is considering going with a blue top instead of the Light Ivory.  Because I'm more of puriest, I'm hoping that he will go with the original color. 

[Jonty]

A great looking car. It's my pick of the most sexiest sports car of it's era. My specialty car to restore is early Porsches. But because I have always and a soft spot for this car I was moved to take on the restoration. I plan to pull all the windows, doors, hood, top and truck lid off the car for a complete windows out bare metal/aluminum paint restoration. The color will stay original and be sprayed with a two state Glasurit finish system. Because I want this car to be a show room finish, I will be buffing, and making sure that all gaps meet the 3-4 mm tolerance for these cars. Any details you may have about the car, please do share. I will have all the chrome triple chrome plated. Interior will be done in it's original German Vinyl. Look forward to sharing the process with you..Cheers!

well if you have to re-set the springs inthe boot please take a photo for me as i need to know how they go

[fhernand]

Jonty, when I get to this I will think of you and send some pictures.  The restoration should go pretty quick since I only work on one car at a time so I don't overlook the details. 

[RickM]

  Because I'm more of puriest, I'm hoping that he will go with the original color. 

Be even pure-er and go for single stage paint 

[al_lieffring]

Remember to paint the hub caps to match the hard-top if you do decide to change the top color.

[KevinC]

Kevin, the plate color code is 670H which corresponds to Light Ivory.  My client is considering going with a blue top instead of the Light Ivory.  Because I'm more of puriest, I'm hoping that he will go with the original color. 

I am a 670 all the way guy myself!

[fhernand]

Kevin, would you be so kind to forward me some pictures of your gorgeous car? My business email is idoporsche@sbcglobal.net.  Regards, Freddie

[KevinC]

Freddie,

My car had the distinct pleasure of being the groups "featured car" in 2007...

 http://www.sl113.org/2007.html

[jeffc280sl]

I think the bumperettes do a special diservice to the lines of the car.  That is one thing I would consider changing because you can always drill holes in the bumpers to install them if ever desired in the future.

[fhernand]

I have started the disassembly of all exterior emblems, lights, grill and handles.  I have left the top and window attached for now.  It is important to take close note of how things come apart.  For example on this car, before taking the headlight off, I notice the chrome trim around the lights do not fit properly to the outer light bucket.  Also, the lines coming off the fenders and on to the chrome rings are off.  This will be addressed when I start the metal work.  Important also is to properly fit all panels prior to taking off.  Next step is to actually start the stripping of old paint.  All the aluminum panels will be stripped chemically to avoid unnecessary surface removal.




Jeff, I totally agree with you on the issue of the front bumperettes.  Will have to see what the clients desire is on this. 

[fhernand]

There really is no easy way to strip paint.  It takes the right tools and plenty determination.  When the body has been repainted several times in different colors, it takes extra time to complete the job.  I normally use a buffer type grinder with either 40 or 80 grit.  It's important not to over heat the panels that will only cause the metal panels to warp.  Also, only use the grit that is needed to do the job.  A harsh grit will only take off too much metal.  On aluminum panels I only use paint stripper and finish using 120 grit on a orbital sander on the bare aluminum.  Once the metal is completely clean, I recommend a metal cleaner making sure there is no residue left on the metal.  Metal must be free on dust or grease prior to coating.  I sprayed two coats of a two part epoxy primer on metal and aluminum parts.  Once the expoxy has cured, I can start doing my metal and bondo work right over the epoxy.  The proper gloss on the epoxy allows you to see clearly where all you dents, dings and waves are found. It's important to get some coating on the bare metal quickly so there is limitted time for the the pours to suck in moisture.  When taking out weather seals like that found around the trunk top, a quality grease and was remover will lift off any of the old seal glue and rubber.  A proper bare metal paint job required to strip every area having paint. 
Also important to grind out any previous bondo.  You will be surprised to find how some have filled dents instead of properly pulling them out.
Here is the progress...
 

[114015]

I think the bumperettes do a special diservice to the lines of the car.  That is one thing I would consider changing because you can always drill holes in the bumpers to install them if ever desired in the future.

Freddie,
Leave those ugly aftermarket bumper guards away; just dispose them. If they were at least the original MB ones of the (late style) 280...
230ies never had bumper guards, and Euro SLs especially not. Just fill the holes with plugs. But if you are anyway planning to get all the trim pieces rechromed ...

Just my 2 cents...

Achim

[lurtch]

That is some crazy looking oil cooler you've got there!  If you decide to ditch it and go with the Mercedes OEM  item get in touch with me. I did that mod on my 230SL.

Larry in CA

[fhernand]

Larry, thanks for the tip.  I will take note of your offer. 
Achim, if this was my car, no doubt those bumperettes would have been the first things off the car. 

[fhernand]

A little more stripping of the front end.  After stripping I found damage to front end of the car.  Front left fender has been replace.  The right fender had lot's of bondo.  Front grill support had been changed. If you decide stripping the car to metal, I highly recommend two coats of the two part epoxy primer.  It take lot's of work to take a car down to metal and leave it clean.  Now is the time to seal the metal properly and do it right.   

[Bernd]

maybe its just my own ignorance, but I notice quite a few dings that you didn't work out before you primed. Any real reason to do it that way? Are you now going to sand it down again to bare metal to do the bodywork?? If you want showroom paint, then did you not want to replace seals and such?
I always learned to do the metal work before painting, even if its just primer.

Good luck on the project

Bernd

[fhernand]

Bernd, good eye.  What you see on the car is Epoxy primer.  This primer is a corrosion primer.  It adheres and seals the metal like nothing else that I have worked with in the past.  This type of PPG epoxy is formulated to allow you to apply bondo over the epoxy.  I still prep the epoxy with 80 grit paper before applying bondo.  The bondo sticks to the epoxy like it does metal.  I do it this way to have the metal fully sealed even under the bondo.  Because the car lives in the SF area, I wanted extra corrosion protection.  Hope this helps.  Regards, Freddie

[mpat]

I'm thrilled to see the photographs of my car online. Although Freddie is doing the hard work I'm equally excited about the progress. After reading the discussions here I agree we should drop the bumperettes, seems like they are universally unpopular. I have loved the look of the pagoda roof for nearly 20 years and never imagined I would own one. I'm lucky to have found Freddie to work on the car and to take a break from working on porsches!

[fhernand]

Yes, it's official the bumperettes care coming off!  
Mark, thank you for the business.  I'm actually enjoying working on your 230 as much as the 911s...don't tell no one.  Even though the paint and body work was hacked, it's getting done the right way.  Don't forget, you are suppose to help me sand.

Message modified by moderator to remove blatant advertising, in conflict with the forum's Terms of Use.

[fhernand]

One of my pet peeves is seeing a car with sleek lines like that of a 230 and having inconsistent gaps.  Because this car had been hit at the front and rear, it has been challenging to get all the gaps to meet the 3-4 mm tolerance.  Closing a gaps is a job that takes time and good welding technique so as not to overheat the metal and warp the panels.  When gaps are consistent all the way around the car, the finished product after painting is simply amazing.  You get flat panels that meet perfectly to one another and gaps that are tight making the car look flawless.  Of course it's a very time consuming project because it also involves moving hinges and such but well worth the effort. 

[fhernand]

It's Sunday morning and coffee is brewing.  I have taken a couple of hours today to gather more information on the Pagoda.  All I can say is, you guys are a fortunate group to own this piece of art.  I have come to appreciated the craftsmanship not only the exterior of the car, but under the hood and suspension.  I came across some cars that have caught my eyes and will keep as inspiration as I complete Marks Pagoda.  Not sure who the belong to, but truly amazing art.  The pictures truly depict proper panel fitting, flat panels with no waves, proper gaps...

[fhernand]

Finally I was able to finish the metal and bondo work on both sides of the car.  I'm ready for the first of four complete blockings. I have the door, and trunk lid gaps perfectly fitted and adjusted to 3-4 mm gaps.  Properly aligned body lines that run across the car must be matched perfectly from one panel to the next.  The rear trunk panel also completed.  I  have sprayed three wet coats of Polyester Primer Filler.  This type of primer is excellent for achieving flat panels.  It lays very thick giving you extra material to bock.  The black over spray you see is a guide coat that I use to keep my blocking "honest".  The guide coats remains on any low spots found when blocking.  Blocking is of utmost importance in order for your panels to look smooth and straight.  All the lines must be blocked carefully so you do not loose sharpness of edges.  Using the right sanding blocks for the panels goes along way.  You may choose to sand using water or the dry method.  My first three blockings are use the dry method.  My last blocking I use water.  I start blocking with 120 grit.  My second blocking with 150 grit, third with 220 and last with 320 grit wet.  If you choose for 320 grit for final sanding, I recommend applying two coats of sealer prior to your finish coat of paint.  Okay my arms will hurt for a couple of days but beats having to lift weights at the gym.

[fhernand]

The first blocking on Mark's car went well.  Blocking is one of those jobs where you need to walk away for awhile and then go at it again.  It's easy to simply want to just sand like crazy and not worry about how flat the panels are turning out.  On large panels like doors, a long block serves well.  It's long enough to cover a large surface area catching the lows and highs.  When blocking the body lines, I make sure to always sand flat up towards the line at a 45% and then back from the top creating a nice straight and sharper body line.  Some like to use a small round type of sander to sand the inners of the rolls. The black guide coat is essential as a serves as a temporary line.  I continue to use a nice flat square to check my flatness between gaps and panels.  Have a good vacum cleaner handy for it gets dirty dusty. This is a laborious process however, when the final top coat of clear goes on and you look down the side of the car, the results will be worth every second of the bocking.